MoellerMarine Products, Fuel Tank Sending Units, 4 to 28 Inch Tanks

I was nervous about ordering a new gas sending unit/float for my boat, but this worked perfect. Install was simple and it matched all the previous holes. Trimming it to the right length was easy as well. Only thing that I couldn't use were the provided screws being they were different thread pitch, but the old ones worked fine. For the price, I would definitely buy again if I needed to!

This product works great, especially at this price point. The included directions make the install a breeze. The only thing that didn’t work is the included bolts were the wrong thread pattern for my tank but that was a nonissue as I reused my existing bolts from the old unit. This one is way more accurate and now I can be on the water without fearing I’m going to run out of gas!

I did not have to modify or anything it went right in. Works good so far.

Packaged well, with hardware and instructions included. I had to re-use the screws that held my old sender in, because they were coarse thread as opposed to the fine thread screws given. I checked the new sender by "bench testing" it with the gauge from my boat and a 12V power supply, and it accurately displayed sender arm position from empty to full. This install WILL require you to do some careful measurement, and then cutting the float arm and repositioning the float to a spot where it will slightly touch the inside of the bottom and top of the tank while extended to its full range of swing, so, take your time and measure everything ACCURATELY, and you will have good results. They say not to bend the metal arm, but I found that a slight upward dog leg in it right at the float, about 15 or 20 degrees only, would make the full range of operation happen better than leaving it straight.

March 25 2018: This item was purchased as paired up with the Moeller electric back-lit fuel gauge. My new gas tank is oddly shaped with an off-set hole for sending unit as well as non-standard holes that didn't match with sending unit holes (I understand it only aligns up one certain way, but still the holes in my after market polyethylene tank must have been off.) For this reason I had to break all the rules: bend the rod, and widen the screw holes just a few MM's so the holes line up, (but that's all my problem I suppose,) but the main reason for commenting is to advise as to a potential problem that I ran into which at first caused me to think the sending unit was defective, but it was not. Moeller provides a way to pivot the sending unit 90 degrees so the float/arm goes to the right direction. I had to do that. By unscrewing the center threaded post (where the sender goes) you take the nut, rubber and brass washers off and reposition the arm. The main unit is square shaped and keyed into the top ring. What I did (with out knowing it) is moved the square connector part around (90 degrees) and touched the metal part of the bracket and placed the washers and nut back on and re-tightened. When this happens the gauge reads FULL even when arm is down/empty. I will also reply to FAQ for this issue as it's easy to make that mistake when turning it 90 degrees and I couldn't find that as a problem anywhere else. I sent a pic of the right way to set it back in place.Moeller has a good FAQ section but it is only recommended to check sender and then have gauge checked out (by who I don't know.)While doing a resistance check with a multimeter to see if the resistance was changing along with arm sweep I noticed the metal part was touching. Once fixed though (ie. so it is not touching--see pic) I could see the gauge sweeps nicely. Since I bent the rod it reads only half tank when tank is full, but does read accurately empty (which is what I really need.) FYI, with the rod/arm bent it will not reach full swing up (since the float hits the top of the tank as more gas causes it to rise up) and reads only 1/2 tank (ie. when the tank is actually full.) That is not Moeller's fault since I broke that rule since the gas tank is oddly shaped and I had to see empty only. I actually replaced the bulb with a ($9) LED red bulb which is nice for night driving.

I bought 2 of these to replace the original equipment in my 1996 Ranger 462VS Bass Boat fuel tanks. They were not exact replacements but are close enough and the best I could find. The packages had excellent instructions printed on the back and you do need to read them through before starting. I did have to trim the float arm length. I followed the chart on the package and they seem to read perfectly. One difference was that my originals had the ground wire attached by a threaded screw and these have a spade type connection. Rather than trying to thread a hole in this thin plate I just used the spade connector provided and used my own female connectors. I recommend coating that completed connection with a generous amount of good quality automotive silicone gasket maker to insure that it will not vibrate loose. This is the only step I took that was not spelled out in the supplied directions.

Having a kit car can open all sorts of cans of worms. From day one of having the beast, the float on the sending unit kept getting stuck so I'd never know when my fuel gauge was reading right. This spring fuel gauge read as almost empty even though I'd just dumped $20 fresh fuel into the tank. The usual jiggling of the car or using a stick inside the tank wouldn't make the sending unit work.I went with this one to replace the sending unit that's been a bane for 2 years now based on past experience with marine applications. After a couple of modifications to suit the size of the tank, bang-o, presto, the fuel gauge now works! The only hard part of the whole thing was putting the fuel tank back in, I could have used another four arms at the time.Very happy with this purchase.