Powers Fastening Innovations 05512 Spike Anchor - 3/16-Inch by 4-Inch Mushroom Head Grade 8.2 Carbon Steel Pre-Expanded Anchor, 100 Per Box

I would never have gone for the Spring nails it was at landlord and posed cost imposed thing I would always go with the tap on. For this product you have to have a hammer drill and a lot of arm power because you have to pre drill you gonna burn through some bits if you don't have a hammer drill you'll have to buy one in that the Spring Nail is 4 1/2 ", You're best off to set a guide you don't wanna wing it. If you don't have the proper depth you cannot get the Spring nail and no matter what how hard you hit it if you go too deep it doesn't feel like it locks in as well. Again this was in landlord and posed item to go cheap to make more work than is necessary attack on you can unscrew these you cannot they are locked into the concrete he chose these for me to for out the basement these days most people frame the basement she can get where I'm going with this and if you wanna go the long way around and make a huge process out of a simple framing the basement for finish then go ahead and go with these... He didn't wanna commit to a floor plan for framing I get that but I still would have chosen tap cons to make a simple art of finishing the perimeter walls after they were sealed & insulated.

How did I just learn about these?! Seriously, SO much better than tapcons for my basement. I put in 2" foam with furring strips by simply drilling a hole and pounding them in. I had to be careful I didn't hit too hard, as it would literally begin to suck the furring strip into the foam. Tight grip!

Like a number of other commentators, I was turned onto these things by a video post from The Old House on how to refinish a basement. They suggested using these squiggly bolts to hold lathing and foam boards snug against a poured concrete wall. They work exactly like they guys said. Fast, cheap, snug and kind of satisfying to whomp them in. My dog doesn't like the noise of both the drill and the hammer. As others have said, don't bother with a regular hammer, use something heavier, they need a hard whomp. I do use my regular hammer to tamp the bold through the lathing until they hit the hole and then switch to the whomper.

Bought to secure 3" XPS insulation to basement concrete was, but they turned out to be too short. Unfortunately, couldn't find any longer ones of this type.

What a great product. Have used 200 of them to fasten 1x3s over 1 1/2 xps on basement walls. Drill 1/2 to 3/4 deeper than the anchor will go in, couple hits from a large hammer and it’s never going anywhere. Much faster and cheaper than tapcon screws or wedge bolts. I saw these on a This Old House video on UTube and couldn’t believe they work exactly like they showed. I used on poured walls, don’t think they would be very good on block.

These work amazingly well for attaching things to mortar and concrete. They are a huge time saver and in some instances work better than masonry screws, certainly quicker.

Where have these been all my life? Far better than any other concrete fastener I've used--the next best is a distant second. Honestly, I don't understand why they work so well. I expected them to have good vertical strength, but not much horizontal strength. I used them to mount furring strips over 2" XPS insulation. The concrete walls are medium quality, built in 1960. I had to be careful to keep them from clamping down the furring strips to the point that it sank into the XPS--that's how much horizontal clamping power they have. And oh so fast to install! I was giggling each time they went in so easily. I'll never buy another tapcon.

Just like others, used this on basement wall to attach 1x3s to 2 inch XPS insulation against basement wall. This has worked perfectly. This old house video on youtube shows how.Best reason for doing this is when you want the extra inch or two of space by not framing the area in completely, and your basement walls are pretty straight to start off with.