ProGoldChain Gauge, Silver

Running a stretched chain is the quickest way to ruin the teeth on your cassette and possibly main chainring(s). With higher end components now being made lighter with aluminum, thin to accommodate 1x11 & 1x12 setups, it doesn't take long to deform a set of teeth from a stretched chain, and then replacing a cassette can be $80 to $300 depending on your groupset. I prefer to regularly replace a $30 chain.This tool is very accurate and simple. I check weekly and when I hit 8 thousands of an inch stretch, I order a new chain and replace it. I haven't had to purchase another cassette in almost 9000 miles on my XC bike as a result.

If you ride your bike a lot, you really should replace your chain before it gets too worn, otherwise you'll be wearing your chainrings to match and when you get a new chain it won't match up correctly. (then you end up buying a new cassette and chainrings, making you wonder if you shouldn't just buy a whole new bike instead when you see the cost...)This is a chain gauge, it's easy to use, and doesn't take up a lot of space in your toolbox. Also, it shows you how much your chain has worn, not just a go/no go reading, so you'll know how often to check it in the future. Not much more to say about it than that!

So, brand new from the box, on a chain with ~1,500 miles on it, and the gauge tells me it's over 100% worn. Hmm. Now, I normally get 3,500 miles from my chains, so there's definitely something wrong. I borrow a Park Tool gauge, with it's simpler 50% / 75% measures, and lo and behold, it's only 50% worn. Interesting... Oh, and a final check - my other bike, brand new chain on it... and it's also 100% worn. Not worth the money - get the Park Tool instead - simpler, but works!

Easy to use, very simple. I tried it on a new chain and an old chain, and it showed the difference. Some reviews suggest it is overly delicate, but if you keep it in its box, you should be OK. If you just toss it in a tool box, I can imagine it could get bent.

Seems to work. Jury is still out. On line instructional help to assure proper use would be nice. Website is not helpful at all

I did some research before buying this gauge and can say that this is likely the best gauge out there. Sure, you can get some expensive electronic gauge that will do much the same thing with more cost and more hassle, but why do that? Doing so makes no sense when one can get one that is a bunch cheaper and works just as well.On another note machinist rulers are another good option, but take longer to use. I like this one because I simply stick it on my chain see where the wear is at, that is it. No squinting at a small increments on a ruler trying to determine how far worn it is, simply, fit and forget. BTW for longer cog life Leonard Zinn recommends changing the chain at about .75 when using this tool.

I like the simplicity of this tool, but mine has never read in any manner that I would consider trustworthy. On a brand new chain it shows 50% worn. A slightly used chain will read anywhere from 80-90%. I have never once found a chain that it would read 10% on. Mine has been hanging on its own special nail on the wall for a long time, so there is no damage from being in a drawer or something. Maybe it's time to buy the Park Tool I should have gotten in the first place...

This chain checker does not operate the same as most. You can't just lower it in-between the links and see it drop.This checker uses the inside edge of the hook (not the outside) to make the measurement (see the pic).You hold the checker against a roller then gently dip the hook to see where it touches.Yes, in my opinion the calibration/measurement ticks are on the wrong side of the hook, but it's a minor issue given the accuracy that can be obtained from this gauge when operated correctly.