2 Piece Cat6 RJ45 Shielded Connector, End, Modular Plug, Connection with Boot, Gold Plated 50μ 8P8C for 23-24 AWG, Wire 1.0-1.1mm FTP Cat6 Cat5e Solid Stranded Ethernet Network Cable, 50 Pack

This is such an item which you'd want to give 6 stars. Finally it became easy to attach connectors to UTP. I have been struggling for 20 years, straightening the wires, and trying to insert them 8 at the same time in the correct sequence and deep enough into the holes 3/4" deep down in the connector. The last few years this became equally harder with the thicker CAT6 cable. That is all over now! You simply strip the jacket, straighten the wires and slide the 8-hole template easily over the wires, while your fingers can adjust the wires directly at the holes. Then you slide the template up to the jacket end, cut the wire ends protruding at the template off, insert the template into the connector outer shell, crimp and you are done 100% success. The hole in the connector outer shell is even large enough to accommodate thick outdoor UTP.The same night I tested these connectors I threw my complete stock, over 200, of other CAT5 and CAT6 connectors in the waste bin. Including the CAT6 types with "through" holes which allowed the wires to go through the connector for later cut off. They are no match for these.

My networking tools and connectors disappeared when I moved, so I ran down to Fry's and bought their brand CAT-6 connectors. Huge mistake. Those went into the round receptacle after buying these.The first test I had of these actually is wiring up 8 PoE IP security cams. Out of the 16 connectors I wired up, I did it a whole heck of a lot faster than I could with the terrible Fry's connectors. At this I only had one test as shorted out of 16 where the Fry's connectors almost always tested bad and at this had every failure mode the tester tested for that could be the connector's fault.The load bar setup here can be a little tricky to get right. Make the CAT-6 wires too straight and the load bar tends to slide back when it hits the pins. Don't straighten out enough then some wire will bunch up when you insert into the loadbar. Also need to make sure all wires are still even length after load bar insertion. However if you have at least a modest amount of dexterity and a little practice, you can fly through making these connectors. Especially after the Fry's connector nightmare I had this process down pat. Actually one of the reasons the Fry's connector failed so much is it had a straight across loadbar making it too easy to short while this has a staggered arrangement providing much better separation. Especially with PoE, you don't want the wires too close.

I love these. Coming from someone who has to use the alternative ones where there isn't a small clip that's used to initially grab the cables, these are heavenly to work with. Once you get the cables into the clip, you're basically set and just have to crimp down once they're in. But make no mistake, these are not very easy to work with immediately. There is definitely a slight learning curve, but a very welcome one.

I was using 1-piece connectors and it was a nightmare to get all the wires lined up in the correct location. I would say on the average it was taking me between 20 and 30 minutes to complete a single connector. Bought these 2-piece units and now it is easy, because you can feed each wire in place (in the insert) one at a time and simply slide in the small insert with the wires correctly position all at once without any issues. Now, it takes me about 5-minutes to make up a connector. Why would anyone want to use a 1-piece unit.? I will definitely buy more of these when I run out.

Much too small for Cat6 23AWG. Do not order if that is what you are trying to terminate. Strain relief boots are hard plastic and incapable of stretching, so even that part is out the window.

After struggling to use some leftover cat5 ends on cat6 cable these ends worked so much better. The little guides took some getting used to and my first couple of crimps were pretty slow. However, after a half dozen or so, they're way easier to use and take about the same amount of time.

Exactly what I expected. Shielding can be pried back to secure drain line from ethernet cable. If using shielded cable peel back jacket from shielding and crimp around shielded area that isn't covered by the jacket to ensure a good fit. Might not fit over the jacket of a shielded cable.

Overall this product was not the best for my liking.The template insert idea was great except for actually getting it to fully seat into the terminal was not so easy. I produced a cable and after having it fail twice I removed the metal ground plate to visually see what was going on. I immediately realized the template was not seating fully and therefore not allowing the pin spikes to pierce the wires firmly or at all.The only way I was able to make a good cable was to keep the sheathing as close to the template insert as possible and really forcing it into the plug. I've marked the template with black sharpie so others can see how far minimum you must be in order to make a connection in my attached images. When all was said and done I still had a questionable cable on one plug end as shown in one of my attached images where you can see a rolled terminal pin. The template plastic was fully seated but it still managed to miss the center of the cable and roll on the outside of it. This eventually could become a failed connection.I will personally be going back to the old school route by just purchasing the fluted versions. If you do decide to give these a try just remember to fully seat the terminal template guide into the plug. It can be hard to see with the metal shielding on it so sharpie the bottom front edge of the guide to make it easier to determine if you made it all the way in.Good luck.

If like me you are an occassional crimper user error can be a problem. When ive failed to achieve a good termination it's been my fault.These worked well. First pair i put onto a spare length of 24awg solid core wire worked perfectly. I tested with a cable tester. All in sequence and well connected.But that wasnt before I'd stuffed up 3 times trying to get 23awg rj45 connectors onto 24awg wire. People who do this for a living will plant face in palm at this point as it is an obvious error once you know a bit more. But for the rest of us let me explain what i found out when i looked into it..23awg cable is thicker. The outer dimension of the cable will be fatter. The inner insulated conductors will be thicker. 24awg will both be thinner.So when you try to use a 23awg guide, the 24awg wires will shift as you crimp. In the 3 attempts i made, despite wires being spot on in placement into the guide it failed each time. No wonder as the 23awg guides take insulated wires upto 1.5mm outer diameter. Where as 24 awg is thinner at 1mm. So wires were sliding all over as the crimp tool tried to make the conductor connection.So check your cable diameters if you are struggling to get things working in the guide or staying jn place in the plug before or after crimping.Other mistakes you can make is not getting lengths right, using the guide the wrong way up.. but good instructions exist elsewhere on this. Aucas came with none. And while there is a link to the webstie i'm not going to search when others are easier to find. Get the lengths right and it works well.Crimp tool will make a difference. Mine butchers the 23awg type as it deforms the case. It works but it isn't how it's supposed to be. On these it works fine as it pushes a plastic tooth down to grip the cable.Your stripping of the wire can also be a problem. I use an automatic stripper, also used when doing electric cables etc. On 24awg the inner insulators are thin, so you run the risk of damaging the insulation wtih a fine nick. I stopped and changed to side snips.I have yet to use up a ladder when terminating to cctv wires. But im guessing based on my test on the ground it js going to be fine.Its a pain to have to read the small print and work it all out. But if you do, im pretty sure youll get the right product and with a little patience get things right every time.

I consider myself a reasonably competent guy and at the very least, capable of following youtube demos, which suggested making up your own patch cables, was a doddle. For the life of me, I could not get any of the 5 I tried, to line up when crimped. The cables either missed the terminals altogether or sat just proud. I have today picked up cheaper Screwfix connectors by Philex and wired up 5 cables without issue from the off, so I'm not a moron, hurrah!. So what's the difference? The Philex have 8 snug half tunnels moulded into the connector. You simply guide the cabe strands in to each tunnel, which locates tightly the strands right above the pin, with no where to go, except down on to the pins. The Aucas have a separate guide to fiddle with and crucially, the space above the pins has too much lateral space. in addition for some unfathomable reason, the space above the pins is stepped, so strand 1 is on the lower level, strand 2 the upper, 3 the lower and so on. A totally unnecessary complication that again, allows for lateral movement. I used Kenable cat6 outdoor shielded (Through Amazon).

Before blaming the clips , check your tool , I tried the UGreen single piece connector prior to this and only got a 50% sucess rate come times no connection some times wires jumping in the wrong order . With these you get to carefully and easily inspect your wire order before you insert and crimp. If people have had problems with these , i would suggest to try a different crimp tool . I replaced mine every 5 years as i noticed sucess rates went down with the easy guiding clip there is no guess work about how much cable to trim off and risking those cables with thi covering dangling out the back of the crimp . Now if i could only fine a way to make thos plastic moulded injected boots i would be happy ......

These are Cat6 NOT Cat6A which uses the thicker 23AWG wires.They are suitable for Cat5, Cat5e, Cat6 Shielded or unshielded cables. (Although if you are using unshielded cables you should use unshielded connectors).I've installed hundreds of cables in my time and always use the two part design for a faster fitting.These are good quality connectors and good value. Yes you might find better at a much higher price but for home based work these will do fine.

These are very reliable plugs. These 2-piece plugs are a little more expensive but so much easier to use. Ive got about 10 left from the bag of 50 and I have not had a single failure. Get yourself a decent RJ45 crimping tool. The wires are a very snug fit when inserted into the bridge piece. For this reason make sure you trim the ends with a very sharp tool. My crimper has a blade for this purpose. If you use regular wire cutters you can easily end up with a tiny burr on the tip of the cut end which can make it a bit fiddly inserting the cable in the bridge piece. Ive had a bit of practice and its taking me about 4 or 5 mins to complete a termination.