PolymakerCoPA Nylon Filament 1.75mm Black - 750g Easy to Print, Warp Free, Strong & Tough 3D Printer Filament - Heat Resistant on Cardboard Spool

I printed the above image with a stock Kobra Max (260° max nozzle temperature. Although some people suggest it runs hot), 0.8mm nozzle(not a nozzle suggested for small gears)...I have been printing for a well over 5 years and it's not just a side hobby. It's not work but it's an obsession. I've had many printers, I've tried innumerable brands and types of filaments. This is my first favorite. I'm going to write a simple list of why you should buy this filament.By far the strongest filament I have ever used. It's a different kind of strength though. PC FG/cf, peek etc might be stronger in certain ways, But having the same volume as a regular kilogram, yet half the weight, it's just something special. Just a note, the way this filament works is a lot like say porcelain. It's an incredibly strong substance, but if you kind of chip away at it with say a pair of bolt cutters, it'll break easier with scary pieces flying at you.. Kinda like that.Dimensional accuracy is off the charts. You make a hole, the whole will be the size you make it.I only have one printer that prints perfect every time. A toybox printer.. If you know what that is, you'll understand. Anyway, this filament in my Kobra Max, is officially my new most consistent and reliable print. I use Cura to do the "print one at a time" (instead of all at once), and I can have 19 different prints I want done all in that one platform, and it'll just go through one after the other and print them all completely accurate. No more checking every 30 minutes or hour. No need for a camera mounted on it or special failed print sensor...Keep the support material as low density as you can, but when it comes to the support interface and removing this support, it's amazing. The support interface ACTUALLY works...... Really. And once you break off the support which CAN require a lot of strength (ice pick or smaller nozzle size suggested) You're left with a manufacturer quality part. No post-processing necessary.A real quick note, I tried doing the flow reduction for the support material and it ended up failing. I'm sure it's because this material is very thick/.8 nozzle/and printed well below the suggested print temp, But that did fail me. Anyway, I'm sure if you actually have the appropriate setup/settings you'll be fine. Print your support flow to give you ~0.2 mm support line width. Then it should break off super easy, clean and without any excessive strength.Guess that's really all I have to say. Aside from the fact that it also has a really nice texture. Oh, and make sure you use "alternate wall printing direction" or something like that. I'm sure even if you use a smaller nozzle size, there will be a little pull like with metal field or glass filled filaments. You want to make sure it changes direction each layer to avoid that warp and shit. If you use Cura, the newest update has that option in experimental or somewhere at the bottom.This is my summary. I'm using a stock printer, oversized nozzle, and very little is done to try and accommodate this filament suggested print settings. I'm honestly not even sure how it works.But regardless, I'm getting manufacture quality parts. Truly functional.I have every other filament. And although some might have higher strength in certain areas(and usually some disadvantages), but they all require some specialty equipment, tons of work to get it to stick or print clean. High build plate temperatures that waste electricity and often result in warping.And so on and on.And maybe ridiculous for me to say, but I think this is the best filament ever produced...(Aside from basic PLA for prototyping).I just want to know if it comes in 5 kg.

Endergebins definitv besser als das Filament von Bambu. Beide habe ich verwendet, und bei bei 90C im Ofen nach Getempert. Das Filament geht direkt aus der Verpackung raus, in die Trockenbox, über den Sidewinder bei meinem Bambulab P1S. Keine einzigen Druckfehler. Beim Bambu PA6-GF muss das Filament erst ein paar Stunden bei 90C in den Ofen zum Nachtrocknen.... Nachteil natürlich ist das Profil anlegen, zumindest beim BAMBU Studio.

Je viens de réceptionner ce fameux fil et je n'ai pu m'empêcher de le tester immédiatement. Avant de l'acheter, je me suis demandé si mon imprimante 3D de marque: Fokoos allait le supporter.Pour l'adhérence, j'ai utilisé le 3DMilk Adhésif vendu par Amazon qui est tout simplement magique.Pas besoin de support d'accroche dans mon cas.Le résultat d'impression est vraiment au rendez-vous. Aucune bavure, la pièce sort nickel et le nylon est hyper dur. La température utilisée est de 260C° et 60C° pour le plateau avec une vitesse de 40.Je ne suis pas très calé en impression 3D mais là j'ai été surpris de la qualité exceptionnelle de de fil.A noter, j'utilise une boite de séchage durant l'impression.

ottimo. mi sono trovato subito bene. resistenza impressionante

I read some of the reviews in here and was a bit taken aback, but they don't agree with the youtube reviews that are incredibly detailed and rave about this filament....so I gave it a try. The parts I used this for are intake sleeves on an RV8. That's a 220mph two seat airplane, with 3d printed sleeves right at the front. I wasn't at all sure 3d printed material could take it.The first material I attempted was NylonX. After a month long fight with 4 spools used, countless calls and emails with tech support they finally decided their material just could not produce a part this large without significant warp. This is a 20hour print with a .8mm nozzle putting a lot of material down and nylonx warped all over the place. The parts are 9 inches long, 6 wide and 2.5high...hollow in the middle. Perfect recipe for warp. We heated the bed to 115C, heated the enclosure to 60C, garolite, with and without magigoo PA, 30mm brim, raft...it just warped like crazy no matter what we did. Tech support finally gave up it's just too much nylon for too long according to them. I was frustrated to say the least considering how much I spent trying to make that crap work. There is a reason they only sell it on their website and not in here where it can be reviewed. It is strong...but don't print anything of size.So, I went looking for something other than Nylon and stumbled upon Priline carbon fiber polycarbonate with great reviews in here...and poof, two perfect parts easy peasy. One of my favorite youtube channels had a raving review of this CoPA filament and it's complete indifference to warp. It also has a better heat tolerance than the Priline and since I was ready for a redesign of the parts after test flights...I ordered a spool of CoPa to try...but after the NylonX fiasco, I was not hopeful...and had another roll of Priline sitting here waiting. The issue with the Priline is I am right at it's softening temperature....just too close for comfort, not that it ever gave any trouble at all. Just wanted something with a bit more margin. Not only did I print this NYLON without heating the enclosure at all, I had the bed at 45 degrees, used magigoo PA on garolite and NO BRIM. It printed perfectly. Twice. I am blown away. Today, those two parts flew for the first time with zero issues at all. Heat doesn't affect them in the least. Its difficult to believe this material and NylonX are both nylons considering what a massive pain NylonX is and what a breeze CoPA is. No tech support needed. No crazy prep, huge heat or anything odd. It prints like PLA...I take that back, my PLA is printed on a hotter bed than this stuff. It's incredible. Its not as stiff as NylonX....but I suspect Polymaker's Pa6-CF likely is...and it's cheaper. I don't really need that stiffness in my application, but I am tempted to order some PA6-CF just to try it....if it prints anything like CoPA....with carbon fiber....get outa here. :-)As for the reviews in here claiming this material is brittle, has no layer adhesion etc.....its just did 220MPH at the front edge of an airplane with a propeller spinning half an inch away. Brittle? No. Not even close. Now, it was brittle when I attempted to print it too cold. I have a hardened .8mm nozzle (nylonX requirement) so I typically need to be at the top of the temp range since hardened steel doesn't transfer heat as well as brass and I am pushing 4 times the filament that a .4mm nozzle moves. At 260C, my typical half bridge support test snapped easily and the skirt didn't stick together....that gave me pause. Printed again at 270...voila. Strong, great adhesion, minimal stringing, supports popped right off when printed with a z-distance of double the layer height.I also printed a part in Polymaker's PC-Max as that gets raves as well. It had some warp. Not nearly what NylonX had but some. Compared to CoPa...I don't see any reason to use the PC-Max other than cost...for this application I'll stick with the extra 60C Vicat softening temperature of CoPA....with ZERO WARP!! If the cost doesn't scare you off, and you need strong nylon parts that can take heat but also print without warp....you just found your filament. All metal hotend please....you have to heat this stuff up or print really slow. I have an E3D V6 on a CR-10 V2 and it couldn't have gone better.