Zwave Light Switch: Aeotec Wall Switch, 3 Way, Repeater, On Off, SmartThings Switch, Z-Wave Plus, Gen7, illumino, ZWave hub Required

I have this Z-Wave Switch and it works great. Easy to install and pair with HomeAssistant. I wanted another switch but it has been out of stock. It popped up on Amazon as in stock and quickly went back to out of stock. Then a few weeks later it popped back up as in stock so I ordered it as New but wondered if I would get a returned item. That's what happened. Box was already opened and it was missing the 4 screws and pigtail wire that should have been in the smaller inner box. So I am returning this one.This Switch is not available right now. I will not be ordering it again until I see it as in stock at multiple suppliers. Don't want to get this same opened box back again.

Straightforward installation; Unlike some other switches, pairing this switch with my hub was super smooth. Solid operation, both remotely and locally.

One might ask, "How can a light switch have a poor design?" Well, with a smart switch like this, I assert that a poor design is one that requires a near-reinstallation to resolve a problem. Today, this switch was unresponsive. Not only did it show as "dead" on the Z-Wave network, physically the switch just didn't work. The light controlled by the switch would not turn on, and the "click" in the switch that would normally happen didn't.Looking at instructions for this switch, the "reset" sequence is to hold the top or bottom portion of the rocker for 20 seconds, and then press again if a blue light is illuminated. That didn't work. Herein is my view of why this is a poor design. "Resetting" the switch still requires firmware that will recognize that the reset sequence has been initiated. If there is something egregiously wrong in the switch (i.e., something that is software controlled that fails to work), the reset sequence likely won't work.The only recourse at this point is to remove power from the switch and then re-add power. There are two obvious ways to make that happen: turn the breaker off that feeds that switch, or physically remove the neutral lead going to the switch and then attaching again. In the case of my home, one breaker feeds MANY devices. Cycling the power would needless remove power from other devices. The other method is all that remains. And this is where (as noted) the bad design comes into focus.A smart switch should have an "air-gap" method to remove power without requiring the consumer to flip a breaker or remove the neutral lead from the switch. On other switches, there is a little tab on the bottom of the switch, or behind the removable toggle, that will remove power from the switch when pulled. It's a 5-second fix. This switch has no air gap method available. The manufacturer of this switch is SO confident that their firmware is perfect that they have excluded an air gap method. Bad choice. Their firmware is not perfect, as exhibited by the lock-up that happened with mine.Also, in closing, since this switch also acts as a router the absence of working correctly will potentially cause a host of problems that were using that switch as their access to the Z-Wave network. (usually switches that are on the fringe of the Z-Wave network)

About 3 months after installation, the switch started having odd habits on the toggles. Pressing top side would turn off the light and bottom turn on. Then a few months later the unit died entirely. Unfortunately, there are fewer options out there to pick from. I generally have good luck with Aeotec but maybe they're just not experienced enough to manufacture a device that gets mechanically interacted with everyday.

Seemed to work okay for about 11 months, last week suddenly it will not turn the light on anymore. Checked power, neutral & grounds all good. Replaced with an old school light switch.

Works flawlessly with SmartThings. Aeotec support is thorough and understandable. I strongly recommend purchasing a non-contact voltage detector pen (e.g. Fluke VoltAlert 1AC-A) to determine neutral, ground, traveler, and hot wires. Includes pigtail wire and necessary hardware.

I bought this to replace GE zawve light switch that went bad. This was the perfect replacement for the price.The only issue was I need to added to Home Assistant and change the configuration for [55-112-0-120] External Switch Type to momentary so that the aux switch would work with my 3 way configuration.

I purchased this to control a ceiling fan because I own other aeotec devices and it's cheaper than Leviton, no where in the information on the page does it say it cannot control a ceiling fan, I open the box and it's etched into the side of the frame "Do not connect to fans, receptacles, or tube lights. I don't understand why this would be because it says it is rated for up to 1/2hp motors (but a ceiling fan is a motor, right?) at 1800 watts (15 amps).