URREA 6-Point Striking Wrench - 7/8” Flat Strike Wrench with Straight Pattern Design & Extra Wide Striking Zone - 2714SWH

Was getting a P0032 & P0420 code on my Jeep Wrangler which pointed to the Bank 1 O2 sensor (passenger wheel well above the catalytic convertor).Removing the sensor with the traditional O2 sockets was not working (apparently o2 sockets are good for installing but not removing stuck sensors). If I would have kept trying with various tools, I'm sure I would have stripped the sensor and necessitated and expensive trip to the shop.Decided to try this URREA 6-Point Striking Wrench as a last ditch effort on it worked like a charm!Clipped off the sensor connector and used this wrench - note: it wasn't the most snug fit over the sensor and had a bit of play but worked perfectly. Struck with a large hammer back to loosen and then to tighten slightly to break the sensor free. It was slow going as there was only enough room for 1/4 turn at a time but eventually loosened enough to use the O2 socket to get rest of the way.Note: I highly recommend using a thread chaser w/high-heat anti-seize compound to get clean the threads and get them back to useable state. Note: it may be a bit tough to get the thread chaser to grab at first but take you time making sure to not cross-thread (you will know if it is very hard to thread the chaser with a socket. There should be some resistance at first but not too much after it starts.)https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BZ74WHBB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1After chasing the threads, make sure to use high-temp anti seize on the threads of the new sensor (making sure to not get any near the sensor itself - just a very light coat on the threads without leaving any excess).Be careful to thread the new sensor correctly as it may be slightly tough to start it and may have slight resistance at first but nothing too bad. Use the traditional O2 sockets to snug the O2 sensor down but don't try to tighten a crazy amount (just good & tight with a normal length socket wrench).So happy with this tool as I was about to invest in an air chisel and special $150 socket to remove this sensor - but this tool did the same thing and was well worth it. Will last forever. Seems a bit expensive for it's one purpose but well worth it to get the job done right. The biggest thing I have learned in all my years of working on cars, etc. is: having the right tool is the difference between getting a job done and maybe having to call in a professional. This wrench is the right tool for the job as it provides the hammer impact effect to loosen a sensor (where just pressure and muscle alone would not work).

Worked good for just loosening oxygen sensors

Well built and holds up to hammering the heck out of it. These are much better then trying to use an ordinary box wrench.

Forget the clawfoot or the socket with the wire cutout. I have both. They are worthless.Your sensor is stuck with the chemical bond of rust and the force of a thousand heat cycles. Your breaker bar will only cause those other tools to round off the only chance you have at extracting the offending check-engine-light-producing emission nanny. This will fit over the wire connector. Use a 5lb hammer and lug-nut crossbar to reach the sensor. Wear gloves.

Nice tool for removing oxygen sensor. I used an air hammer with a blunt chisel tip and it came right off.

all others only made it worse. after weak sensor wrenches totally stripped it. filed a few straight edges, tapped the perfect wrench onto sensor and then beat the crud outta it and finally broke it free. you will not break this tool at all. you're welcome!!!

Great for breaking free oxygen sensors. It's six sided, so it won't round the corners off. I use an air chisel with a tie rod bit (pickle fork) to hammer it when in tight places. When loose a lot of penetrating oil and work it back and forth.

I purchased this to remove rusted bolts on a farm disc. Although it was advertised for use with a hammer, I used a long cheater bar. It held up to all the abuse I could give it.