Autolite 1100 1 Barrel Carburetor Fit 1963 to 1968 Ford Mustang Falcon Comet straight six cylinder 170 & 200 CID engines hot air choke works with automatic and manual transmissions

EDITED- Leaks very bad. EDITED/UPDATED - after seller sent a second new carb with float height adjusted correct it still flooded and leaked out of the vent, I had a new mechanical pump that was over powering the needle seat pressure under high rpm, installed a regulator set to 5 psi and the leak went away and car runs perfectly. Excellent customer service here

It would have been nice to have included a spec sheet and tuning guide but, other than that, this worked perfectly for a 65 Mustang 200ci to replace the Autolite 1100. All of the linkages worked as expected. The float was good and the needle valve had the appropriately coated tip. Once tuning adjustments were made the car has been running beautifully, starts up immediately, idles correctly, no stall outs [other than that caused by my teen son attempting to learn manual transmission :-) ].

I installed it yesterday so everything is fresh in memory. (scroll down to end for a shorter summary)I am not an experienced car guy, but still decided to get a 1965 straight six Mustang. I've been able to fix everything with the engine so far by Google and Youtube, and when the carburetor started leaking this spring I bought a high quality rebuild kit and changed all the gaskets and most of the moving parts. Unfortunately this didn't solve the issue and I didn't know what to do.I read all the mixed reviews about different Chinese built carburetors - and decided to go with this one, as most reviews where fairly positive, mostly the issues has been that you still need to make some adjustments to make it work.Installation: Straight forward. Installed it in place of the old one without making any adjustments or changes.First start: No gas getting into the carburetor. A quick google search for issues with these carburetors told me that it's probably either the float or the needle valve.Making adjustments: Opened up the top of the carburetor to check the float and the needle valve. Here I can say that there are some parts of the carburetor that ar ea bit sub-par in quality. The screws are a little soft, and there is a spring holding the choke control rod in place that is of really poor quality, and the vent valve rod is also of poor plastic quality.And yes - the needle valve was stuck, and did not release without manual pulling. Even after some twisting and wiggling the needle valve continued to be stuck.I decided to replace this needle valve with the original valve from the old carburetor. This one release smoothly. I was a little worried as the rubber tip of the original valve was a little smaller than the needle valve in the Henkyo.Screwed everything back in place and moment of truth...Second attempt to start: smooth start. No issued with idling and I went on a cruise. No issues.I've also had issues with the carburetor becoming too hot, causing the engine to stop when trying to speed up from complete stops (such as at an intersection. Idling is fine, but when light turns green and I start throttling the engine dies - I read this is probably because of overheated carb and the solution is adding some sort of insulation between engine and carb).So I added one more gasket (two in total) between the engine and the carburetor, and this seems to have done the trick. No more engine stoppage when throttling from stops (or running idling). This might be a bad solution so please if anyone has a better solution please let me know.TLDR summary:- No fuel intake when installing without any adjustments.- Works fine after changing the needle valve to the original one.- Quality of some parts (vent vale rod cheap plastic, and the spring holding the choke control rod in place is of really poor quality)

1966 Mustang - 6 cyl, 200 engine, manual transmission. Autolite 1100 carburetorMy old Autolite 1100 carb was just worn out and needed to be replaced. Rebuilding kits were of little help. I am an expert on these Autolite 1100 carbs and have rebuilt and reinstalled them many times.After having read mixed reviews on the Henkyo carbs, and having had poor success with expensive rebuilt carbs, I decided to go for it and buy a Henkyo carb. For only around $100, wasn't too much to take a chance and I purchased it through Amazon so I could return it if need be.The packaging was excellent with the carb sandwiched between two perfectly fit styrofoam blocks and the carb was wrapped in a plastic bag. When compared to the old carb, it looked exactly the same. EXCEPT the heater hose bracket that is normally attached to the back of the choke spring housing was incorrect and I had to remove it and transfer the old bracket onto the new carb. (I installed the new incorrect bracket on the old carb - see pic with red arrow). I transferred the brass fittings for the vacuum line and choke heat tube and the threads were correct and the fittings screwed in perfectly, including the fuel filter.I had read reviews about the float on these Chinese built carbs being set incorrectly and missing check balls - so I opened the carb after unboxing it to check that out. I had also read reviews about fuel leaking from the top cover. The check balls and weight were installed properly. The float height was exactly correctly adjusted to a height of 1 - 1/32 ". So, inside it looked good and I replaced the top cover, tightened down the cover screws and re-installed the vent rod. The vent rod also was adjusted correctly.I installed the carb back on the intake manifold spacer with the carb gasket which which they supplied. Hooked up the vacuum line, fuel line and attached the accelerator arm. I had a fire extinguisher and fire blanket ready, just in case !!After just a few cranks of the engine, it started right up and idled smoothly, BUT --- After about 10 seconds, fuel started to poor out of the vent rod hole so I shut down the engine and wiped it up. WTF ????The two biggest causes for this type of leakage are wrong float height AND/OR leaking fuel inlet needle valve. I had read someone's else's review about a new valve inlet needle not having a rubber coating and causing leakage.So, with carb still on the engine, I removed the top cover at which point it was clear the fuel blow was overfilled as fuel spilled out when I removed the top cover. I looked at the float again along with the needle valve. With the float and needle valve in the closed position, I was able to blow air through the fuel inlet hole. I removed the float assembly and the fuel inlet valve needle. Sure enough, the tip of the needle was brass but no rubber coating (see pic - blue arrow). Being that the float height was good, it surely had to be the cause of the carb flooding and leaking.I opened my old carb and removed with float needle and valve assembly (which were new) which does have the rubber tip on the needle and I installed the old needle and inlet valve into the new Henkyo carb. I put the top cover back on, tightened all the screws and reinstalled the vent rod and fuel line.I cranked the engine and it immediately started. I ran over to the engine compartment and watched the vent rod hole for leaks and VOILA - dry as can be, no leaking !! I adjusted the choke, idle speed and mixture screw and now the engine runs great. Took the dog to the park and popped the hood to check for leaks - all good now.Had I not been extremely experienced with these Autolite 1100 carbs I would have not been able to use this out of the box. For someone less experienced, the leaking fuel would have surely caused a fire and loss of the vehicle. They are manufactured with inferior fuel inlet needles and this has to replaced before the carb can be useable. Even though the other items (check balls & weight, float adjustment) were all good, these items should still be checked before installing the carb as well.Hopefully this helps anyone looking to replace their Autolite 1100 carb with a Henkyo carb.

Only 2 weeks in but so far so good. Its a bit shiny for my old engine 66 mustang but the air filter covers it.

Did not work. Some aspects of the assembly weren't correct which would prevent this from ever working. Save your money. This is one China repop that doesn't measure up.

According to the reviews these seem to be hit or miss. I had a win with mine. Needed very little adjustment out of the box. I did take it apart and checked the float level based on the experiences of others but found it within spec. This solved a terrible running problem I had on a 66 Falcon 200 six. The original carb was just hopeless after having sat for too many years. I think I had to adjust the electric choke a bit, but otherwise couldn't be happier. The price is certainly right and comparable to what I found on that auction site.