SCC SZ143 Super Z6 Cable Tire Chain for Passenger Cars, Pickups, and SUVs - Set of 2

The Super Z6 Cable Tire Chain benefits from a lightweight (comparably), compact design, making it convenient to store and handle. Its Z-design ensures a snug fit around a variety of tire sizes, improving traction without less risk of damage to rims. The chains are made from durable steel cables coated in a protective coating to resist corrosion. I found these easy to install on my Jeep Grand Cherokee without needing special tools. They provide reliable grip during winter conditions, enhancing driving confidence on covered or icy roads. However, I did not venture into deep snow or rugged off-road terrain. How to Use: Prepare Your Vehicle: Park on a flat surface. Engage the parking brake. Ensure your tires are cold and free of debris. Unpack and Inspect: Remove the cables from their storage case. Check for any visible damage or defects. (Best done at home before heading to the slopes!) Lay Out the Cables: Spread out the cables on the ground to avoid tangling. Identify the side that will face outward based on the design instructions. Position the Cables: Drape the cable around the inside of the tire, then pull it around so that it is centered. For the Super Z6, the cables are designed to form a "Z" shape when installed correctly. Secure the Cables: Connect the ends of the cables using the provided clips or fasteners. Ensure the cables are snug but not overly tight, allowing some slack for movement. Check Fit and Drive: Turn your vehicle slightly to make sure the cables are properly positioned. Slowly drive forward a short distance, then stop to re-check the fit. Adjust if necessary to prevent any rubbing or loose connections. Use reduced speed and avoid sudden turns or hard braking.

Easy to Use, Dependable Chains for Winter Driving I’ve used these SCC SZ441 Super Z6 cable tire chains a couple of times now, and I’m impressed with how straightforward they are to install. The design makes it possible to get them on without moving the car, which is a big plus when you’re dealing with snow or ice on the side of the road. The instructions were clear, and with a bit of practice, I was able to get them on quickly. On the road, they performed well—providing solid traction on packed snow and icy patches where regular tires would have slipped. The low-profile design means they fit nicely even in cars with limited clearance, which is important since many vehicles today don’t have much room around the wheel wells. A couple of things to keep in mind: these are cable chains, so while they’re great for light to moderate use, they’re not the same as heavy-duty chains if you’re driving in really extreme conditions all the time. Also, they can make for a slightly rougher ride at lower speeds, which is to be expected. Bottom line: A reliable, easy-to-use option for cars, SUVs, and pickups that need extra traction in winter. Great fit, straightforward install, and dependable performance make these chains a smart addition to the trunk when snow season comes around.

I've gone through 3 sets of chains over the years driving to ski resorts in a FWD car. Needless to say, I will be buying AWD and snow tires for my next car, but for now this is what I have. These chains really were an improvement over the last 2 sets as the latching mechanism is much easier to use especially when it's blowing wind, snow, and your hands are cold. It also isn't a "pull through style" that leaves extra cable, so no risk of a loose end coming off and scratching your wheel well or paint. They are usually loose enough to get on and tension correctly. There is a smooth side and a rough side so be really mindful of which way you are installing them (smooth side towards tire). The biggest challenge with these is in deep snow, the "sweeping motion" needed to get them behind the wheel obviously doesn't work, so takes quite a bit of messing around with and crawling on your stomach in snow to get the other end around (especially for cars with low profile tires like mine). When your hands are cold, and it's dark, it can become a real struggle to get these on if you're parked in deep or chunky snow. I bought traction boards so I could elevate the wheels a bit, but overall, unless you're on a well plowed even surface, in the places you're likely to need them with heavy falling snow and wind on uneven terrain it can take quite some time and a lot of pulling, patience, and cursing to get them on. Taking them off is a breeze. Traction wise, once on they work great. These have survived two seasons so far, and haven't broken. Just pick where you put them on carefully, and if you're going to be driving in heavy chunky fresh snow put them on before you get to that point.

There are a confusing array of tire chains/traction control devices on the market, and even this particular company makes so many different models that it's hard to tell which ones are the best. Here's what you need to know about chains and traction control devices, and why I like the ones made by SCC. I also include some installation hints at the bottom of this review. There are two broad types of traction control devices: Tire chains and traction control cables. Tire chains are actual chain links. Traction control cables are long pieces of metal cables, covered in a plastic coating, and designed to form a Z-pattern over your tires. The plastic coating is then surrounded by hundreds of tiny, round, metal springs. Cables are generally regarded as better because they are easier to install, last longer, are less damaging to roads, and work better with vehicles equipped with ABS. Also, according to SCC, you can safely drive with cable devices up to 30 mph, even on roads with no snow, without damaging them. You should normally install traction control cables on your drive wheels, i.e. the wheels that actually push or pull your car forward. If the snow is really bad, though, you may have to install cables on all four wheels. Read your vehicle's owner's manual for more details on where to install your cables. In any case, it's a really, really good idea to have TWO sets of cables in your car at all times. That way, if something breaks (murphy's law), you won't be stuck. Within the traction control cable category, there are two general types of cables: Self-tensioning cables tighten themselves using a tensioner (which looks, feels, and operates like a rubber band) that you install when you put the cables on. Manual tensioning cables are tightened by you, and have to be re-tightened after you drive for a couple hundred feet or so. I've heard that emergency vehicles tend to use the manually adjustable models because they are allegedly safer at speeds above 30 MPH, but driving above 30 MPH for any non-emergency personnel is illegal with any kind of traction control device. There are several advantages to the manually adjustable models. They tend to have more slack, which can make installation easier. Also, the tensioners (i.e. rubber bands) on self-adjusting cables can and do break (it happened to me today) and if they break, you can't use the cables. So, if you get a cable that has a tensioner, get extra tensioners, or better yet, an extra set of cables, just in case. Here's a breakdown of SCC's cable products: Z-Chain- Manually adjustable Traction Control Cable. Easy to install, but must be retightened shortly after you start driving. Very easy to install because they come with lots of slack. Often used by police and fire personnel. Shur Grip Z/Super Z LT- Self adjusting cable. Tensioners can break so buy extras. Less slack, so can be harder to put on the car, but generally easier than Z-chains because you don't have to manually tighten and re-tighten them. Super Z6/Z8- Newest Self adjusting cable, designed for vehicles with very little sidewall clearance. They have all the advantages and disadvantages of the Shur Grip Z. In addition, however, the connectors are a little harder to work with on this model because of their low profile. The Z6 and Z8 models are SCC's latest models. They are designed to handle smaller clearances between the side of the tire and the car than their older models. As a result of that design, they are hand crimped during the manufacturing process (instead of machine crimped), and that results in a slightly higher MSRP. SCC's representative tells me that the cable size and metal springs are the same size as their other cable-based products, and so the only reason to not to get the Z6's over the older models (Super Z's) is that the Z6's are slightly more expensive (usually only a few dollars). I've noticed that the Z6 connectors are a little harder to work with than the Shur Grip/Super Z LT model. On all of these models, the metal rings are made of a spring-like material, SCC says that you don't have to remove the chains as soon as you reach a paved road. Rather, as long as you drive under 30 MPH, SCC says that you can drive with the traction control cables on your car, even as you switch between plowed and non-plowed roads. Because each of the hundreds of little springs are separate pieces, even when one breaks, it just falls off, and the others work to fill-in the void. The Z6/Z8 models also come with a very nice cloth bag that is sized properly to hold the cables. The older cable-based SCC models come with plastic containers that are too small to easily lay the cables in. Installing the cables is relatively easy, and I'm definitely not a hands-on kind of guy. It took me about 15 minutes the very first time, and now that I've done it several times, I can get it done in under a minute per wheel. SCC has a video on their web-site that explains how to do it. You should always do a test-installation of cables before you need them to make sure that you purchased the correct size and know how to install it. It's also very useful to have some waterproof gloves handy and a towel with you, as it is often wet and cold when you need to install chains. A good choice for gloves are the long wristed rubber gloves that you can buy at the grocery store for washing dishes, or some disposal latex gloves. After you use the cables for the first time, fold each cable separately and then use a trash bag tie to keep each one together. Otherwise, the next time you need them, they'll all be tangled together. Here are some hints on how to install these chains. 1. Read the instructions from the manufacturer and pay close attention to the safety instructions. The basics of the instructions are (1) stay safe, (2) position the cables correctly, (3) connect the upper rear connector, (4) connect the upper front connector, (5) connect the lower front connector, and (6) connect the black rubber bands. The instructions are quite good, but they leave out a few helpful hints, which I will now share with you. BEFORE YOU START, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT SIDE UP! There are markings all over the cables which indicate the correct orientation. Look for them! 2. Put on some rubber dishwashing gloves and lay a towel down wherever you're going to work, or you will get very, very dirty. 3. When you slide the cables under your tires, start from a point between your front and rear tires. Slide half of the chain under your car, and then reach around from the other side of the tire to pull the cable around. Although the instructions describe a swinging slide motion, I've never seen anyone who could do that without twisting the cables up. Just pull them and things will be much easier. 4. Once the cables are around the tire, DO NOT pull the bottom connectors that hold the cables together at the bottom of the tire towards one another. Keep them as far apart as possible. If you pull them in tight, you won't be able to pull the chain high enough in the back to connect the rear upper connector, which is what you are supposed to do first. 5. When you are connecting the rear upper connector, if you can't get the rear upper connectors up above the tire so that you can see them, push the part of the cables that surround the bottom of your tire backwards and under your car a few inches. This will create slack behind the cables and allow you to pull the cables up in the back. 6. Once you have the rear upper connector connected, hooking up the front upper connector may be difficult. Try pushing the rear upper connector back so that it is laying against the inside sidewall of your tire and then pull the front upper connectors towards you as hard as you can. Don't try to pull them towards each other. While sitting, just pull them straight out, towards you, and the rest of the chains should fall into place. Then they should be easy to connect. 7. Gently pull the parts of the chain that criss-cross your tires down towards the ground so that they aren't all bunched up at the top. Look at the chain and make sure that the parts you can see, and especially the blue cable, is evenly distributed around the tire. 8. Then pull the bottom front connectors towards you (out, but not up or down) to create slack. Then connect them. Again, don't try to pull them towards one another as that makes it almost impossible to create slack. 9. On these particular cables, the upper front connector is BLACK and the bottom front connector is SILVER. When you're ready to take the cables off, if you get the wheel lined up so that the BLACK connector is on the top, it will be much easier to find and remove the rear connector (which will be opposite the black connector).

I am not a planner. I’m more of a “that sounds fine, what could possibly go wrong?” traveler. My husband, however, prepares for trips like we’re crossing the Oregon Trail. Before our Spring Break trip to Bryce Canyon, he insisted we buy Security Chain Company Super Z6 tire chains “just in case.” I rolled my eyes so hard I almost saw my own brain. Well. Nature humbled me REAL fast. We got caught in a TWO FOOT snowstorm on a mountain road, and suddenly my husband was out there calmly putting on these chains like the survival expert he always believed he was. Meanwhile, I was inside the car Googling “how long can people survive in a snowbank.” These chains absolutely saved us. Without them, we would have been stranded on the side of the mountain questioning every life decision that led us there. Instead, the Super Z6 chains got us safely through snow that looked like a scene from a disaster movie. So yes, my husband was right. Again. The chains worked perfectly, were surprisingly easy to put on, and officially earned a permanent spot in our car. I still refuse to admit he over-plans… but let’s just say I’m no longer mocking the emergency snack bin.

When I got up the mountain, it wasn't snowing but I carried these cables because the next 2 days was going to see snow. Next morning, I put them on to get to the ski lift which is about 5 miles or so. Installation was very easy to do. I did it inside the garage so it was dry. Because it was my first time putting it on a RWD on back wheels, I was semi concerned. But no worries at all. Traction was great. There was a moment when I was braking that the car needed more space...guess it was partially my fault for not braking sooner. Went and came back fine. Same thing for the 2nd day. No issues. When I was coming back from snowboarding though, because of the accumulation of alot of snow, while the car backed up fine, it got stuck going forward. I just reversed my way out of it. Third day, I was on my way out of town. No snow falling, but all the roads had snow and some areas were icy. As soon as I got out and saw wet ground (no snow) I stopped to take off the cables. This was more challenging then putting them on just due to finding the points of attachment. But it was still easy to do. Moving onto the 2nd tire... It was already off... And gone. Where did it go? Not sure... It came off in the middle of the drive. I don't know why. Maybe it was more loose than I was expecting?! Now I only have cables for 1 tire after my 1st use... Suggestion: Carry a plastic bag so you can keep the original carry bag a bit cleaner.

Update . After using and loosing a chain almost getting stuck theh first time after 100 yards in my drive I was pleased I did not have trouble putting that one back on ( did not pull the wheel ) and it did stay on the second time . I even put my snowsport plow on and plowed my drive of 5 inches of powdered snow including on the grass as the plow had a 4 inch rubber lift that will not damage turf . I am now very happy and raised it from 2 to 5 stars as well as will purchase another rubber band incase that happens again . Might consider a another set of chains if I get by until they go on sale in summer usually for around $75 a par . I feel they were worth every bit of the $100 I paid now . Wish I had them last Sunday instead of getting stuck in my drive and using a $150 tow . I went right through the same ground with the plow on today and 8 inches of snow there . Below is my non edited first review after the third day of ownership . I received my chain set . On the package it says it fits over 10 different size tires . It actually fits 2 of my 3 vehicles though none of them well . I do not like this tightening system at all . I didn't get 100 ft the first time I put them on before one side came off and I had to take the wheels off to do that and being disabled it took a long time and w . For me paying more money and buying real chains seems to be a better option . I will say it pulled well with only one on . Glad I noticed it quick and didn't get into a bad spot and loose the other one . I was just driving around my circle drive in 3-5 inches of new powder snow . But was headed for a area that had 8 inches next . I had to be towed out of their a few days earlier prompting this purchase .The plastic clips are put on a rubber band to keep things tight . They are less prone to scratching a wheel or hubcap but they come undone too easy and or break in severe cold . You have no warning and if your diving on a main road you have little chance of back tracking and finding the chain as their still heavy and sink in any snow . I found mine by dumb luck while walking to the mail box . Now when their both on you will be amazed at the difference . I had gone up a hill with 8 inches of snow and no wheel spin I couldn't even go through on flat ground before . I am debating whether to return them now . I will try one more time and maybe tie a string around the rubber band so they can't come off but then they would beat the hell out of the fender if they did . At $100 a set I can't afford to lose a set every 100 yards . They weren't impossible to get on but the problem was getting them equidistant around the wheel which is why I removed he wheel so I could work things around so the metal clips were not on the rims . On my tires the plastics were not near anything . I would be better off with metal fasteners that hooked or enclosed the rubber band so they couldn't toss the chains if they came loose . The product needs more development . I have had them 5 days and through 14 inches of snow . e

A little bit about my driving conditions and why I mentioned in the title that the product has been a real help... I am in Boone N.C. I have to drive down (on a gravel road) from the top of a hill to get to the main road. The problem is that our road does not get plowed that quickly like the main roads in the city. The road while coming down from my house has two very sharp curves and the incline is quite steep. With the cables on, I have not had any problems with my car - '97 Lexus ES 300 (front-wheel drive) in the snow and/or ice. Handling is very secure and that is why I feel confident. Previously I used to leave my car down the mountain or hitch a ride with a neighbor. Before putting it on for the first time, see the video on the product page - that really helped me. The written directions that came with it were difficult for me to follow - maybe it is me! The cables are tight and with continuous use, it does get a little bit comfortable in terms of putting it on. Taking it off is relatively less painful. Keep a pair of working gloves in the car; the kit (when I bought it) comes with a pair of plastic ones that reach to the elbows but I have not used them. In fact, I have a ski pant and jacket and wear them when I am putting on and taking off the chains. That way my work clothes do not get dirty. May be I am not that adept at doing it (could also be because I am out of shape), because sometimes I have to squat or get on all fours to get other the end of the cable from behind the tire. I also think it may be helpful if you could get something to reach the cable from behind the tire and help you bring it to the front. The video shows the guy using something, but I use a twig or a small branch that I always find when I am putting them on or taking them off. Finally, do not forget to lubricate them after using - I use WD-40. Well, that is my review - I am not at all comfortable driving in the snow (actually more uncomfortable in the ice); I have a FWD car that does extremely well with the chains on; it is difficult to put them on; but just like everything with practice it becomes easier. I mainly use the chains to drive down and up my snowy/icy gravel road and rarely have to use it on a flat road (where I assume it will be even better in terms of driving). Last thing, I just came up today (01/26/11) with the chains on and our road was absolutely horrible - all slushy and at at least 3 - 4 inches of that. It was a little scary, but the drive up was fun!!

After receiving my cables, I practised putting them on when it was still dry out. Very easy to install and remove. When removing, I turned the tires to make it easier to access the back clip on one side, then turned the tires the other way for the other side. Later that week, we got our first snowfall and on one stretch of road I encountered two hills. The first hill I was able to maintain my speed to get up the hill without stopping. On the second hill, cars were stopped for a red light at the top and unable to get traction to go again. There was a truck and trailer stopped halfway up the hill and not moving. A Jeep was spinning his tires and starting to go sideways. It was mayhem! Pro Tip: If your tires are spinning, don't try to go faster! I pulled onto a side street and installed the chains for the second time ever, first time in the snow. They went on just as easily as when it was dry. I drove back to the road, easily climbed the hill and stopped at the top for the red light. When the light turned green, my tires slipped slightly but I went slow, gained traction and got through the intersection without any problem. On the other side, the roads were clear so I pulled into another snow-covered side street to remove the cables. No problem. Great cables! For what it's worth, they come with the rubber tensioner.

We use these on our Toyota Corolla. They have saved the day many times. They are easy to instal, don't damage anything and allow you to drive almost anywhere that there is enough clearance. We have used them on ice, in snow and in mud. Just be careful that you have enough clearance so you don't damage things on the underside of your vehicle.

J'ai installé les chaînes SZ139 sur des pneus 235/55R17 et le fit est bon, les chaînes sont de bonnes qualités facile à installer

Tested them on a 4km hilly stretch of gravel road. Road was a mix of snow and ice and bare patches. They were easy to install and remove (I recommend adding to the bag a foot long hook made of coat hanger wire to pull the chains around the back of the wheel to avoid hugging a muddy wheel). They performed well and did not rub while installed or incur any damage. Dry them before storing or the coils may rust.

Broke after 5 minutes of using, while driving and made cut on my tire too, The rubber part flew like a slingshot to nowhere, couldn’t find where both of them gone, it was night, it was so unsafe. Don’t buy it please, I am not left with a chain, from 4pc, only 1 left, I don’t know what to do now.