ROCKFORD FOSGATE RFK4X ロックフォード アンプケーブルキット

The kit is great! I’m guessing the lowered ratings for the fuse was given by people that didn’t know to remove the emblem on the fuse casing and tighten the fuse in it with the tool provided. I thought it worked very well pushing power to my dual Rockford Fosgate punch P3 12’s, and my Rockford Fosgate P1000xbd mono amp. Which the amp is certified at 1477 watts. No issues at all, and highly recommended.

The package totally damaged and already opened

As with everything on Amazon I plan ahead. So if I know I need something I'll add it to my cart and let it sit there since prices tend to change often. When I added it to my cart it was around 85$. A couple weeks later I got an alert saying the price decreased so I went to check and it had dropped to 67$ shipped and sold by Amazon with prime shipping. Usually when an already low priced item such as this drops that much I scoop it up right then and there. Savings of 18$. As far as the actual kit, it is probably the best quality 4 gauge kit out there for the price. It is definitely true 4 gauge with decent insulation and it is actually truly copper in and out, no aluminum. Very flexible and easy to run in car. Perfect length from battery to trunk and I own a fairly long sedan, BMW 750li. I like the fact that they already installed the fuse holder and fuse but rarely is the fuse the right size. Too many companies rate their kits on wattage and that's not the right way to go. So 100 amp fuse is too large for my setup as my amp has an 80 amp rating so I had to go out and buy an 80amp fuse. As far as the fuse holder it is decent. Not the best but not the worst. Took a bit of work to remove the rubber piece on top of the holder to get to the Allen screws but once tightened the fuse doesn't go anywhere, no chance of moving and wiggling around like many have complained. I didn't use the rcas so I can't comment on the quality but when I first started my system I used a cheap scosche kit from Walmart and the rcas were decent, I never got any noise or anything out of them. These look of similar quality if not better with the RF brand but they only give you one pair and I needed 2 pair so I just put them aside and bought 4 channel stinger cables and they're awesome. I also didn't use the speaker cable because I don't use 16awg speaker wire, I think it's a little too small. It's also only aluminum not copper. I use monoprice 12awg oxygen free copper which may be a little overkill but it's not too expensive and it works perfect. Ground is perfect length even though I only needed 12 inches. Shorter the better. I would definitely recommend this kit to anyone. I know it's common to be on a high school budget but spend a little more now and get better quality because there honestly is a difference in sound and output.

There are many other detailed reviews on here, but let me just say that this kit rocks! I am not super techy or nerdy, but as a car buff, I recognize quality when I see it. And, this kit has it, plenty actually. Quick cliff notes for the ADD types: You get your moneys worth, and if you have a nice amp and sub, don't cheap out on the wiring. Let's first address the cost. You will find other 4AWG kits that are half price. Are you paying for the name, or something more? You ARE getting your moneys worth with this kit. The power and ground cables are pure copper. Cheaper kits are mixed with aluminum, which has more resistance than copper. So your "4awg" cable really isn't a TRUE 4 AWG cable. This kit, however, is. And, it's got a TON of copper strands, like 1,800 I think? Something rediculous, which leads into the next paragraph on why it's so flexible. People aren't joking when they say this stuff is flexible. Imagine the 4AWG power and ground cables are just super big Twizzlers, because that's how flexible the cables are! The power cable is plenty long enough. My amp is installed under the drivers seat (4 door sedan, battery on drivers side), and I had to cut about 4-5' off the power cable as it was just too long. Wow, I thought - I actually had cable left over? Murphy's luck usually leaves the cables 6" too short, but not this time. If you are wondering why the ground cable is only 3' long, it's because that's the recommend max length for a ground cable (Google it if you don't believe it). It was plenty long to find a seat bolt to ground to. The ends on the cable are very nicely, solidly crimped and heat shrunk on the ends. My car was lucky, and the bolt holes were a perfect fit! It was nice to see the holes a tad on the smaller side, as it's much easier to slightly enlarge the holes rather than have the ends too large for the bolt you're fitting it to, and it has that "slop" to it (very tacky and unprofessional to me) The RCA cables seemed too long at the time, but after running them on the OPPOSITE side of the power wire (To help avoid static noise), it turned out they were just perfect. The remote turn on wire was more than long enough. Again, I had to trim some off. I can't describe how awesome it is to have wire LEFT OVER, and not have to splice! My box/subwoofer has RCA plugs, so that was the ONLY additional wiring I had to purchase to fully install and wire my amp/sub kit. I had to order 2 additonal RCA patch cords (To run from the amp to the sub, the RCA cables that came with the kit go from the output of the headunit to the input of the sub). However, if your sub just has regular speaker wire hookups, have no fear - this kit includes quality speaker wire to run from the output of the amp to the sub, along with all the little ends and connectors. Yes, this kit comes with the mega huge 100amp fuse, but it's NOT pre-installed on the power cable. It's in the little baggie of odds and ends, so don't be a moron and give this kit 1 star because you thought they didn't give you a fuse (I'm not sure how you could miss that huge fuse in the bag, but whatever). The only thing I would change is that this kit does come with all crimp stuff, but I decided to go ahead and solder/heat shrink all my connections. The only thing I did not solder was the actual ends of the 4AWG cables, as it was crimped pretty dang solid and looked beautiful with the heat shrink wrapping already on it. My setup is a Pioneer AVH-P4300DVD with a JL 500/1 and a JL 10W6v2. I'm far from a millionaire, but I wasn't about to skimp on wiring with a quality amp/sub setup. This wiring kit is on par with the quality that comes from the JL amp and sub lineup.

Love this installation kit, good quality, looks great