🌿 Elevate your aquarium game with precision CO2 control—because your plants deserve the best!
The ZRDR Aquarium CO2 Generator System features an upgraded automatic timing motor valve powered by a stable 12V DC motor, ensuring low noise and temperature. It includes a bubble counter with a check valve for safe, water-backflow-free operation and easy syringe refilling. The integrated atomizer refines CO2 bubbles for optimal plant absorption. This cost-effective system uses common household ingredients to generate CO2, making it an eco-friendly and budget-conscious choice for aquarium enthusiasts.
J**H
My detailed installation instructions
UPDATE April 24, 2021 - I have now been running this set up for a few months now and it is awesome. I change the baking soda and citric acid about once every 2 weeks. The output has been consistent and the issues I had at first with the gauge not showing accurate readings is no longer an issue. My plants seem to be doing really well. I highly recommend this set up and have changed my rating from 4 stars to 5.Original:Once set up, I so far have found this CO2 setup to be awesome. Here’s some tips from my experience, step by step:1. My cotton filter was already attached to an apparatus that looks slightly different than the one in the directions (part 3). My set came with a spare cotton filter also (part 4).2. Screwing the filter (part 3) to the valve (part 2) was easy in my experience. Just tighten as far as I could.3. Use the funnel and fill the tank (part 1) with ingredients. NOTE: 200g is 7/8 cups. I did about 3/4 cup each citric acid and baking soda, then 1 cup water. I will do 1 full cup each acid and soda and 2 cups water next time. I was short on supplies. Screw the pressure valve into the body as tight as you can (part 2 into part 1)4. My valve did not register any pressure to start. I waited a long time. Finally I gave up, unscrewed the top bolt above the gas output knob on the valve and heard air escaping. I knew then it was producing fine. I never reused this top bolt once removed.5. Connected the solenoid valve (part 6) and used the wrench (part 13) to tighten into place securely.6. I screwed the entire top ( smaller end with bolt) of the bubble counter (part 5) and filled 3/4 with water. Replaced the top of the bubble counter tightly and screwed the other side (bottom) in place tightly to the top of the solenoid.7. Removed bolt from top of bubble counter and slide end of rubber tubing (part 17 - “trachea” in instructions is tubing) they the home of the bolt. Then push the end of rubber tubing onto the top tapered part of bubble counter where the bolt was and re-screw the bolt on tightly to hold tubing in place. NOTE: The tubing is stiff and pretty hard to work with. I am considering replacing it with higher quality, more pliable tubing.8. Cut rubber tubing twice —Once about 4 inches from the bubble counter (save this 4 inch section for later). The second cut about a 18 inches long.9. Secure the check valve (part 12) on the other end of tubing that’s attached to solenoid (end with filter inside of check valve goes on this end of tubing) tightly. The loose 18 inch section of the cut off tubing gets secured in the other side of the check valve (open end of the valve with no filter).10. Secure the other end of the 18 in section of tubing to the u shaped tube (part 14). This part will go over the edge of your tank when you install it.11. Use your remaining loose 6 inch section of tubing and secure it tot he other end of the U shaped tube. The other end of that 6 each section secure your atomizer (part 15).The CO2 set is now ready to install. Put the base on the bottle (part 16) and put it wherever you plan on storing the unit. Secure the U shaped tube over the edge of your tank and use the suction cups (parts 11) to secure the 6 inch section of tubing between the U shaped tube that’s now over the edge of your tank and the atomizer into place inside your tank under the water.Plug the solenoid connection valve (part 8) into the solenoid, then the power supply cord (part 7) to this.Once everything is in place, plug the power cord into your outlet to power the solenoid on.VERY slowly turn the gas output knob on the pressure reducing valve (literally a hair width at a time) until you reach the goal of one bubble per 10 gallons every 5 seconds or so. This process took me a while to adjust but once I had it set it’s stayed put.The set up day my pressure valve showed no pressure. The bottom of the stainless body got very cold and my bubbles were producing a set count so I knew it was working fine. Figured the valve was faulty. The next day though it reached 10-15 or so in the green range.I plugged my power plug into a wall timer and set for 8am to 6pm. Takes about 30 min in the morning for it to fully come back up to pressure. It is very consistent so far throughout the day.Also, I agree with other reviewers that the solenoid does get quite warm. Mine doesn’t get HOT as others have described but it is pretty warm to the touch. I will be keeping an eye on it as well as the bubble counter evaporation.Last note: the first set I received was missing the u shaped tube, suction cups and the replacement filter cotton. I contacted Amazon and the provided a replacement which was fine. I sent the first incomplete set back for a refund.The missing parts, minimal instructions and questionable valve readings are the reason for only a 4 star rating. So far so good though. I will update if anything changes. I do recommend and hope these more detailed notes will help explain the set up process better than the minimal instructions that are included with the kit.
H**)
Work well
I had this for about a two months and it works flawlessly.
B**.
Great investment
First, before I actually address the quality/review of product I want to address the main complaint from folks on all of these DIY systems - Solenoid Over heating. These are sold under several names ZRDR, FZONE, etc. All are essentially the same exact kits. Most may have small differences in regulators and/or solenoids. FZONE is higher priced and makes you purchase a lot separately. As for the solenoids - yes some have overheating issues and the ones that don't run pretty warm. Here is a simple basic electronics lesson, it is about power and energy. The reason most High end and especially high pressure CO2 systems use 110V solenoids is they are simply put more reliable and run cooler. While most people think higher voltage means it should run more power and warmer - that is not how it works. It is not about voltage, it is about power. Higher voltage, lower current. Lower voltage, higher current. Now, when I bought my first unit, the original solenoid lasted only 12 hours and ran VERY hot. If you look at my picture It was the far right style. They sent me a replacement, but I also went out and ordered a Milwaukee, Extaum, and an FZONE solenoid for comparison. The replacement FRDR sent was Style # 2 (middle one). The second and 3rd kits I ordered also all came with style #2 . This style while run warm they are not ridiculously hot and burn out in hours. Style #1 on far left - are what FZONE and Milwaukee sent. As you can see are more bulky. However, run a lot cooler than rest. The only thing is if ordering this solenoid style most come as inline models and do not have fittings to mount directly to regulator. The Extaum "Low Temperature" model allows you to order either style. So, rule of thumb, if you order and it arrives with solenoid pictured on far right, you WILL be replacing it. If it arrives with one pictured in middle, it will run warm but shouldn't fail. My suggestion, order kit and order style #1 and be done with it. Few extra bucks and you will be happy. I also noticed when reading all the reviews for these (one all the different listings), the vast majority that complained about over heating pictured the solenoid on far right. So, obviously, ZRDR recognized the issue and changed it at some point. OK, that all being said.. As for the quality of these over all - AWESOME. Again, after reading ALL reviews, the very few that complained about "leaks" obviously were user error as the ONLY way for this to "leak" would be for o-ring not to seat/seal. Once you have one, see how they are made, leaking due to manufacturer issues is pretty much impossible. I was so impressed (even with the solenoid experience/research) that I have 3 now. I have both single gauge and double gauge models. CAN not beat the price (even if you do replace solenoid) kits comes complete (minus Water, Citric Acid, and Baking soda). Comes with base, better diffuser than the cheap plastic one FZONE gives you. Comes with Spares (O-Ring, Filter, and Diffuser) comes with solenoid (FZONE charges extra). All Stainless steel construction. After using, dialing in 3 of these, here are few tips: Filling, do NOT follow some of the idiots on youtube - follow the simple instruction on the tank. measure out ingredients using a small kitchen scale. Add each powder separately and DO NOT MIX pre-mix. Pour water last. Big tip, while you can do yourself, much less painless if you have an extra set of hands. My wife holds tank ar 45 deg. while I add ingredients, then I seal it up. Once you add the water reaction begins so you need to act fast.Second, as far as the setting of the rate, etc. I have on 40 gallon, also on 55 gallon. I pretty much set the rate really low at 1-2 bubble per second. I also set timer on solenoid to 2 hours on, 1 off, 2 on, 1 off until evening were it is off over night. BOTH tanks drop checkers run in the green and plants very happy at this setting. Also, keeps the solenoids from running warm all day. Runs for two hours, then 1 hour rest. It also saves on CO2. Ultimately, you want your levels correct, but this duty cycle and flow rate is keeping mine all of mine in the green. Hope this Helps, especially with the Solenoid concerns. I know this is long, but when I was trying to do the research, there was literally NO information regarding the issue - only complaints. And when some say theirs are hot, and others are saying warm, etc. It gets confusing.
P**2
Unsafe, For Decorative Use Only
The valve of the regulator is leaky. The gas gets out sooner than it should. The knob is finicky. It takes a while to set up desired number of bubbles per second but then it changes by itself. One morning I noticed it spilling hundreds of bubbles per second. I was lucky I was home and could stop it in time. When I wiggle the knob a little, the hissing sound occurs.The bubble counting tube leaks out whatever I put in there (water or glycerin). After installing it, the level of liquid goes down immediately and the whole thing is covered with glycerine.There is no need for buying an entry level piece of crapola. It actually doesn't save money - quite the opposite. I should have invested in a decent kit from the start.
Trustpilot
1 day ago
2 days ago