HiLetgo 2pcs 3D Printer Accessories 25A MOS Tube Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Board High Current Load Module Mos Tube Hotend Replacement with Cables for 3D Printer

Generally when you see "well made", "safety", etc in product descriptions you should take it with a grain of salt...but for this one, I think its accurate. I got two of these to replace a dead MOSFET board that my custom printer inherited from an old CR-10. The MOSFET finally gave up the ghost and had to get changed out. On the HiLetgo's, the first thing you notice is the larger size. The board is generously sized thanks to the screw down terminal blocks, and the large heatsink. All in all you need 70mm x 45mm x 40mm of clearance to house this comfortably. The screw down terminals are well marked, the board is cleanly etched and silk-screened, and there are feedback LEDs which I found very helpful. At about 220W (12V bed running at about 18A) the heatsink was barely warm to the touch, which was good to see. I didn't try to push the 30A limit, but based on the design I think its a safe bet. If I push it harder I'll update this review accordingly. Given the price point, and the fact that you get two of them, this is a safe bet and is working like a champ in my setup. Thumbs up!

I bought this MOSFET for my Monoprice Maker Select V2 3D printer heat bed. This printer is known to have the heat bed connectors burnout on the Melzi control board. I've had my printer for 7 years with no issues and all the pictures I've seen with the connectors burned out are using an older board revision. I needed to replace my power supply and figured it would be a good time to do this mod. It was easy to install, but the supplied wires are very thin. The wires that go to the power supply are thinner than my printer's wires going to the heat bed and against my better judgment, I used them. Everything worked fine but the connectors on the MOSFET board were getting very hot (50+C). I finally decided to replace the wires with 12 gauge wires which are total overkill, but it's what I had on hand (see picture). The connector's temperature dropped 15+C and the heat bed heats up a little over a minute faster. The control wires are also very thin and I'll probably replace them eventually. Like another reviewer recommended, I used 2 layers of Scotch/3M permanent double-sided foam tape to mount the MOSFET to my power supply and it's not going anywhere. Overall I recommend this but considering this device is supposed to improve safety/performance it needs to come with thicker gauge wires and I HIGHLY recommend you replace them with an equal or greater gauge than what your printer uses.

I am using this with a Klipper Expander board to power nozzle and hotbed heaters in a 3D printer as part of a budget controller project. With 60W draw maximum at 24V, these really aren't breaking a sweat and the MOSFET heat sink remains cool to the touch. PWM control works no problem. If you are using this in a traditional application with 24V control input, they work no issues, but be aware for everything else that I was not able to trigger these reliably with straight GPIO 5V output from an Arduino. The light turns green indicating control power is received, but the MOSFET itself doesn't transfer power on the output side. Beyond this limitation, this MOSFET is great for 3D printer usage and anywhere else with 12V+ trigger.

The seller Provides a diagram on set up, USE it. Also if you get a new psu as well remember to convert it to 110v... I did not.

These help alot for speeding up the heating of the elements and provide abit of safety, Creality boards are very prone to burning out at their mosfets and quite a few other things, this will relieve the stress of power on t he board, very good amperage too especially if your running high heat like up to 260c+ for things like nylon ect and even have a small fan connector inside if you wish to install a fan for the unit or even spare fan to cool down Stepper drivers, Note these things are Rather large almost credit card size and almost as tall as the Ender 5's case, Also beneath the board the soldering pins are really long so you may want to clip them if your using rubberized double sided tape ( i suggest 2 layers of it) because they can poke thru and possibly short out, take that caution, ideally you'd want to make a bracket for it. Good quality atleast from my point of view as they heat up way faster then stock board or any board like the skr e3 mini or mks gen l, i used one of the fan ports for a teeny fan for more extra cooling on my stepper drivers.

- 1 star for not having marked the polarity on the output pins, trigger pins or fan pins. Notes: This is a low-side switch: - The module always passes the supply’s positive straight through to the load. -The MOSFET only switches the negative side. Output Terminal to the Right (#2) is Positive and always Live. Output Terminal to the Left (#1) is Negative and switched. The Trigger seems to simply require a voltage, but either polarity works.

Negatives: - One of my boards had a broken PC817 opto-coupler. Shipping for me is 2 weeks so I replaced it myself, but why is quality control so terrible? - Heatsinks have no thermal grease on them and they were loose (ie. not even making good contact) on both the units Positives: - While soldering it took a LOT of heat (using TS100 @ 400 degrees), the PCB has a significant amount of copper, which will help with both current transfer and heat transfer - Decent components given price Weighing up both, I think this board is good for people that are comfortable tinker with electronic boards. Would 100% not recommend to someone looking for plug & play.

The HiLetGo MosFET module is just what I needed to rebuild an older MonoPrice 3D printer. The module fit nicely within the control box and has a red Led on the input side indicating input power is available. On the output side, there is a green Led that lights up when the module is turned on. I was able to confirm everything was working before buttoning up the control box.