---
product_id: 6571826
title: "Gila Heat Control Light Gray Adhesive Residential DIY Window Film Sun Blocking 3ft x 100ft (36in x 1200in)"
brand: "gila"
price: "¥85011"
currency: JPY
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 8
category: "Gila"
url: https://www.desertcart.jp/products/6571826-gila-heat-control-light-gray-adhesive-residential-diy-window-film
store_origin: JP
region: Japan
---

# Rejects 57% solar energy Reduces 53% glare Blocks 99% UV rays Gila Heat Control Light Gray Adhesive Residential DIY Window Film Sun Blocking 3ft x 100ft (36in x 1200in)

**Brand:** gila
**Price:** ¥85011
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🪟 Transform your windows, transform your vibe—cool, clear, and protected!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Gila Heat Control Light Gray Adhesive Residential DIY Window Film Sun Blocking 3ft x 100ft (36in x 1200in) by gila
- **How much does it cost?** ¥85011 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.jp](https://www.desertcart.jp/products/6571826-gila-heat-control-light-gray-adhesive-residential-diy-window-film)

## Best For

- gila enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted gila brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Crystal Clear Comfort:** Enjoy natural light with nearly invisible light gray tint that keeps your view pristine.
- • **UV Defense for Your Home:** Protect your floors, furniture, and fabrics by blocking 99% of harmful UV rays.
- • **Bulk Roll for Big Projects:** 100ft length ideal for multiple windows or large-scale home upgrades—because your home deserves the best.
- • **Cooler Interiors, Lower Bills:** Slash up to 57% of solar heat and cut your AC costs with smart heat control technology.
- • **DIY-Friendly, Pro-Level Finish:** Peel-and-stick adhesive film with easy installation and 24-36 hours to perfect your application.

## Overview

Gila Heat Control Light Gray Adhesive Window Film is a premium DIY solution designed to reduce solar heat by 57%, cut glare by 53%, and block 99% of UV rays. Its nearly invisible light gray tint maintains natural light and outdoor views while enhancing indoor comfort and energy efficiency. The durable peel-and-stick film comes in a generous 100ft roll, perfect for large residential projects, and offers easy installation with a 24-36 hour adjustment window for a flawless finish.

## Description

Product Description Gila Light Gray Window Film is an intelligently-designed heat control window film that increases comfort and can reduce cooling costs. It combines advanced heat- and glare-rejecting technologies to create our lightest film tint (as compared to other Gila Heat Control films). This adhesive-based film is engineered to provide a fast, easy installation that adheres firmly to flat glass surfaces. It's hassle free and perfect for DIY projects-no professional installation required! This unique film reflects UV rays while allowing in natural light and maintaining your view of the outside. It's energy-efficient, too. Blocking heat can lead to lower cooling costs and increase the comfort in rooms with direct sunlight. From the Manufacturer Gila films are the brand leader in DIY (do it yourself) window films. Our best in class deep dyeing, coating, and adhesive technologies have helped design higher performing, longer lasting films that are among the best in the marketplace. We manufacture and package our films at our world class manufacturing facility located in Martinsville, VA USA in order to measure and ensure tight quality and performance standards from start to finish.

Review: Easy installation, excellent energy savings and increased comfort! - First and foremost I have to share that this film came well packaged in a box that included a spool that allowed me to dispense it in an easy manner which really helped facilitate cutting and sizing. The film width was more than enough for the windows and sliding glass doors in our home so rather than worrying about cutting the film as the manufacturer suggested with the 1 inch border added to the window measurements I left the excess on the sides and cut to the window measurements minus 1/16 on the top and bottom so that once applied the film only needed to be cut at the sides. In order to achieve a professional result a professional set up is always beneficial. I took the time to try and set up the most convenient and efficient way to handle, cut and prepare the film prior to applying it to my windows. I used a folding table about 75 inches long that we had as my cutting and spraying station. I used a permanent marker to lay out cutting templates for each window so that I would be able to line up one of the factory edges (one of the sides) along one of the lines I drew which allowed me to make proper measurements, cut with less waste and have a sure fit each time. I measured all my windows in advance and worked on all the ones with the same measurements before moving on to windows with different dimensions. This allowed me to cut enough sheets of film in succession and lay them aside. Once cut I could then clean off the window, return to the table and prep the film with the spray. When spraying the film before application I would peel the backing from the film, use blue painter's tape to hold down that corner and peel away the backing. I then would use more painters tape to secure the film and sprayed it with the solution as I removed the rest of the backing. Since I allowed for extra space on the sides of the film I used one of these sides as the anchor point with the painter's tape so that if any residue from the tape did get onto the film it wouldn't matter since this section would be cut off once the film was applied to the window. The kit that Gila offers is essential and includes a bottle of spray, a squeegee to help apply the film and remove excess solution and air bubbles, a cutting blade and lint free cloth. The kit is worth buying for the solution and the squeegee alone. I did not use the cutting blade nor the cloth and chose instead to use my own washable lint free cloths and standard razor blades for cutting. The blade that is included is fixed at an awkward angle which tends to tear the film. I tested the blade on a small window in our bathroom and it did indeed tear the film. Regular razor blades, changed often is best. I chose to change the blades for cutting the film to size about every 10 cuts and when trimming the film once it was applied to the windows every 2 windows as this seemed to be the best to prevent snags. For some reason the film and solution dull razor blades pretty rapidly so its best to change out your blade regularly rather than waste both the film and your time having a dull blade tear your film. I've read on here that some people make their own solution with soap and water but honestly I didn't bother with that and won't if I have to do this again. Considering the time invested in this type of project I felt it a reasonable cost to simply buy the solution. I laid down enough film to cover 16 standard windows top and bottom panes, a small bathroom window, 2 sets of sliding doors, 2 decorative front door windows and even doubled the film in our master bedroom which is exposed to sunlight the majority of the day. With this much square footage laid down I only used 1 and a half bottles of the Gila solution and I used the solution as instructed by Gila which means using it to clean the windows as well as an application solution for on the film and windows. I purchased the solution at our local Home Depot and the kit and an extra bottle only cost use $18. My suggestions for a stress free application process would be to take the time to set up an area that can be used to cut and prep the film. If you can set up a table and make some guide lines for cutting and sizing it can make all the difference in my opinion - when you go somewhere to have this type of film cut its done with by machine or on a table that has all the measurements marked out and straight edges to ensure proper sizing so it pays to emulate this type of set up. Make sure you have plenty of blades and solution and use painter's tape to hold down your film while cutting to dimension and while removing the backing. Don't be excessive with the solution and only use enough to wet the entire surface of the film. If your film is literally running and dripping with solution use less next time. Go slow when removing the backing of the film to avoid creasing it which leaves some nasty marks you won't notice until you have taken the time to put it on your window. The squeegee in the kit is an essential tool and while I have several around the house the Gila one really is designed for this particular job and works very well. I know that some people complain that this type of film is hard to apply or tears easily and opt instead for cling films. This film when handled properly does not tear and over the course of a week I took to casually apply this film to all our windows/doors I did not have a single tear. WIth patience and care you really can accomplish a professional result. The great thing about this film is that you have 24-36 hours to make adjustments or remove the film from the window. Gila states in 24 hours the film can still be handled and I have made small revisions to the film such as removing excess solution or air bubbles I missed during the first application within the first 36 hours. So in the end patience and preparation can save you a considerable amount of money if you choose to apply this film yourself. I called a local company for a quote and the cost to have our home professionally handled was upwards of $600 and we would be on a wait list that was nearly 3 weeks long. And as far as the film helping with reduction of energy costs and reducing heat transfer into the home, we are happy with the results. Our master bath and kitchen literally felt like the heat was on when you walked past them when it was sunny out. The heat transfer in those two rooms was terrible initially but after applying the film we noticed a significant difference in these two rooms. Now they both feel as comfortable as the rest of the house.
Review: Excellent DIY upgrade for old windows. Conditionally recommended - I bought an older home that was a bit of an efficiency disaster. Old and inadequate insulation, single pane windows, poor attic venting were my biggest offenders. I knew windows were expensive, but I wasn't expecting to get a $20k quote back FOR A SINGLE ROOM. Sure, it has several 8' x 4' picture windows, but the ROI for the windows was not going to be anytime inside of my lifetime. I got a company to give me a quote on low-e film installation, and it was not reasonable either (in my opinion). I purchased Gila Heat Control Light Gray Adhesive Residential DIY Window Film, a starter application kit, several extra bottles of solution, and decided to do it myself. After putting this film on several windows and doors, I have some observations. First of all, the film is great. Once installed, the film dramatically cuts down on the heat the heat the windows were previously responsible for. With no other changes the film dropped my electricity bill by about $150/mo. in the summer months. That's a very large, energy inefficient house in Houston's sun - YMMV. Second, this film has the nice side benefit of stopping indoor sun bleaching of flooring and fabrics. Third, this film does tint the windows and cut down on some of the visible light. This doesn't bother me, but it is something to keep in mind if you are big on your natural light. Finally, the film is more or less reflective from the outside when the outdoor light exceeds the indoor light... and it's not reflective at all when it's brighter indoors. So, now that you know what it will do for you, let's get into the installation. The film comes on a large roll, and it helps to keep the box as a dispenser. Aside from protecting the film, it does act as a bit of a straight edge for cutting off of the roll. When you actually want to install some film, you will clean the window as well as you can, being sure to make sure no lint or fibers are left behind. Gila has an installation starter kit with a good cloth to use for this. You will also want to make sure that you install the film when it's light outside, BUT WHEN NO DIRECT SUNLIGHT IS ON THE WINDOW! This is very important, as it makes it very difficult to keep enough of the solution between the film and the glass. Having ambient light makes it much easier to see bubbles. I installed about half of my windows only cutting the film to length, but have found it easier to cut the pieces to the approximate length and width (especially for deep sills). You can use tape to peel apart the backing from the film. It really helps to have two people fir the installation, but I did most of my windows alone. You spray the window with the application solution (from the top down, as it flows down anyway), but you have to be quick about it. Once you've placed the film, you squeegee the air bubbles and solution out from the top-middle, out the sides, and then down the center and out the sides (bit by bit, down the length). The solution and the squeegee are also in the starter kit, though I'm sure there are other options. After wiping down the excess solution at the window frame, I trim the film back to about 1/4" from the edge of the glass. I use a metal straight edge that's backed in cork, so it doesn't scratch the film. The metal part is handy because I use a razor blade to trim the film. I DON'T use the cutter in the starter kit, because it's awful. Glass is very had and will dull your razor quickly... change the razor out pretty frequently. I leave a 1/4" margin because of how my windows are secured into the frame. There's adhesive that makes the surface irregular at the very edge, plus you do need some room to get the excess solution out. Depending on your windows, you may leave smaller margins, but I'd resist the urge to go all the way to the edge, as it may peel or bubble at the edge with thermal expansion and contraction of the glass. The smaller the glass surface, the easier it will be to apply the film. For anything over 8 sqft, I'd recommend having another person on hand. I did several of the 8' x 4' picture windows by myself (with a 48" Gila roll), and I did it by peeling back the backing only at the top of the sheet. Once the top was placed, I temporarily taped it in place. I peeled the backing down the sheet a foot at a time, spraying behind the film as I went. You can do it, but I'd be lying if I said it was easy or time efficient. Bribe a friend with a pizza or alcohol and it will go much faster, and probably with better results. What's a bad result? Well, I ended up junking about 5 windows worth of film. I accidentally creased the film. I accidentally had the film's adhesive contact another part of the film's adhesive (which creates a surface imperfection you can't do anything about), I accidentally cut a piece too small, and I had bubbles I couldn't do anything about post-installation. Almost all of these problems can be avoided by using two people. Sometimes, though, stuff happens... and that's when you're glad you bought a hundred feet of this stuff. Personally, I think this is a no-brainer for anyone who doesn't already have low-e windows. I would buy the installation kit, and 2 extra bottles of solution per 100' roll. An extra squeegee is a good idea if you've got help. The only reason I've only given a conditional recommendation is because installation isn't easy. If you've got two people, and you follow what I've written above, it's not really all that HARD either. The main thing to keep in mind is that not everyone does tasks like this well. It's sort of like the subset of the population that has problems assembling Ikea furniture. I suspect there may be a convergence on the Venn diagram. However, if you've done basic home DIY stuff before, you can probably do this, too. I just suggest starting with smaller windows and refining your technique on those. Conditionally recommended.

## Features

- ADDS COMFORT & EFFICIENCY: Rejects up to 57% of total Solar Energy and reduces glare up to 53%, making interiors cooler and more comfortable
- PROTECTS INTERIORS: Blocks up to 99% of UV rays, helping to keep your interior from fading
- NEARLY INVISIBLE: Good optical clarity from our lightest film tint available
- EASY INSTALL, LASTING RESULTS: Durable adhesive material is easy to handle and firmly sticks to windows for ongoing benefits
- BULK SIZE: 100ft roll is ideal for home contractors, handymen or extra-large DIY projects with multiple windows to cover

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| Brand | Gila |
| Color | Gray |
| Installation Type | Peel and Stick |
| Material | Adhesive |
| Product Dimensions | 36"L x 1200"W |
| Size | 36" x 100' |

## Product Details

- **Material:** Adhesive
- **Brand:** Gila
- **Color:** Gray
- **Size:** 36" x 100'
- **Product Dimensions:** 36"L x 1200"W
- **Installation Type:** Peel and Stick
- **Ultraviolet Light Protection:** True
- **Number of Items:** 1
- **UPC:** 451625006166 732454419878 045162500616
- **Global Trade Identification Number:** 00451625006166

## Images

![Gila Heat Control Light Gray Adhesive Residential DIY Window Film Sun Blocking 3ft x 100ft (36in x 1200in) - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81qpolwohML.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Size** options.

## Questions & Answers

**Q: Is this the same as the LEG361? If not, which one is?**
A: it is very similar. the EGWD536 has a slightly higher uv reduction. but other than that the other stated values look the same. when applying the film, I cut to size first on a piece of 1/8" hardboard,available at Home Depot or any big box store. I used a 4' drywall tee and used a piece of painters tape on one corner to separate the films. Spray the side being applied to the window and the window itself. I applied it to the window starting at the right top corner, matching it up along the vertical edge. Spray the inside of the film, the side toward you. Then I used a squeegee, center to right edge, then center to left edge to set it. I was very gentle at first. But I did find that applying a firmer pressure worked much better. The first window took about 15 minutes to complete. Once I got the hang of it, I did the rest in about 5 minutes or less. It definitely helps to have a second person holding the opposite corner of the film. On larger windows only reveal about 1/3 to 1/2 of the film, set the top and work down from there. For the spray I used about 1 tablespoon baby shampoo to 1 quart of water in a spray bottle. If you have any other questions give me a shout.

**Q: I'm looking for a film that will help insulate a single pane window, to keep winter heat in.  Will this help?**
A: This product is Gila's Titanium product line, which only blocks heat.  Gila's platinum line is the insulating product line that both blocks heat during the summer, and helps insulate to keep out cold during the winter. <https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00433SISG/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=>.

**Q: Is it easy to remove?  (I'm renting this apartment)**
A: very easy to remove.

**Q: if you had to give a percentage how much visible light does this block out? i want to use it on a bedroom window with all day sun and always hot**
A: It blocks about 20 of visible light, and blocks a whole lot of heat.The amount of heat reduction is makes it all worth it..  My couch is right in front of a all day daylight window and its the difference between being able to sit on it at noon now vs it being a stove top burner.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Easy installation, excellent energy savings and increased comfort!
*by J***N on May 23, 2012*

First and foremost I have to share that this film came well packaged in a box that included a spool that allowed me to dispense it in an easy manner which really helped facilitate cutting and sizing. The film width was more than enough for the windows and sliding glass doors in our home so rather than worrying about cutting the film as the manufacturer suggested with the 1 inch border added to the window measurements I left the excess on the sides and cut to the window measurements minus 1/16 on the top and bottom so that once applied the film only needed to be cut at the sides. In order to achieve a professional result a professional set up is always beneficial. I took the time to try and set up the most convenient and efficient way to handle, cut and prepare the film prior to applying it to my windows. I used a folding table about 75 inches long that we had as my cutting and spraying station. I used a permanent marker to lay out cutting templates for each window so that I would be able to line up one of the factory edges (one of the sides) along one of the lines I drew which allowed me to make proper measurements, cut with less waste and have a sure fit each time. I measured all my windows in advance and worked on all the ones with the same measurements before moving on to windows with different dimensions. This allowed me to cut enough sheets of film in succession and lay them aside. Once cut I could then clean off the window, return to the table and prep the film with the spray. When spraying the film before application I would peel the backing from the film, use blue painter's tape to hold down that corner and peel away the backing. I then would use more painters tape to secure the film and sprayed it with the solution as I removed the rest of the backing. Since I allowed for extra space on the sides of the film I used one of these sides as the anchor point with the painter's tape so that if any residue from the tape did get onto the film it wouldn't matter since this section would be cut off once the film was applied to the window. The kit that Gila offers is essential and includes a bottle of spray, a squeegee to help apply the film and remove excess solution and air bubbles, a cutting blade and lint free cloth. The kit is worth buying for the solution and the squeegee alone. I did not use the cutting blade nor the cloth and chose instead to use my own washable lint free cloths and standard razor blades for cutting. The blade that is included is fixed at an awkward angle which tends to tear the film. I tested the blade on a small window in our bathroom and it did indeed tear the film. Regular razor blades, changed often is best. I chose to change the blades for cutting the film to size about every 10 cuts and when trimming the film once it was applied to the windows every 2 windows as this seemed to be the best to prevent snags. For some reason the film and solution dull razor blades pretty rapidly so its best to change out your blade regularly rather than waste both the film and your time having a dull blade tear your film. I've read on here that some people make their own solution with soap and water but honestly I didn't bother with that and won't if I have to do this again. Considering the time invested in this type of project I felt it a reasonable cost to simply buy the solution. I laid down enough film to cover 16 standard windows top and bottom panes, a small bathroom window, 2 sets of sliding doors, 2 decorative front door windows and even doubled the film in our master bedroom which is exposed to sunlight the majority of the day. With this much square footage laid down I only used 1 and a half bottles of the Gila solution and I used the solution as instructed by Gila which means using it to clean the windows as well as an application solution for on the film and windows. I purchased the solution at our local Home Depot and the kit and an extra bottle only cost use $18. My suggestions for a stress free application process would be to take the time to set up an area that can be used to cut and prep the film. If you can set up a table and make some guide lines for cutting and sizing it can make all the difference in my opinion - when you go somewhere to have this type of film cut its done with by machine or on a table that has all the measurements marked out and straight edges to ensure proper sizing so it pays to emulate this type of set up. Make sure you have plenty of blades and solution and use painter's tape to hold down your film while cutting to dimension and while removing the backing. Don't be excessive with the solution and only use enough to wet the entire surface of the film. If your film is literally running and dripping with solution use less next time. Go slow when removing the backing of the film to avoid creasing it which leaves some nasty marks you won't notice until you have taken the time to put it on your window. The squeegee in the kit is an essential tool and while I have several around the house the Gila one really is designed for this particular job and works very well. I know that some people complain that this type of film is hard to apply or tears easily and opt instead for cling films. This film when handled properly does not tear and over the course of a week I took to casually apply this film to all our windows/doors I did not have a single tear. WIth patience and care you really can accomplish a professional result. The great thing about this film is that you have 24-36 hours to make adjustments or remove the film from the window. Gila states in 24 hours the film can still be handled and I have made small revisions to the film such as removing excess solution or air bubbles I missed during the first application within the first 36 hours. So in the end patience and preparation can save you a considerable amount of money if you choose to apply this film yourself. I called a local company for a quote and the cost to have our home professionally handled was upwards of $600 and we would be on a wait list that was nearly 3 weeks long. And as far as the film helping with reduction of energy costs and reducing heat transfer into the home, we are happy with the results. Our master bath and kitchen literally felt like the heat was on when you walked past them when it was sunny out. The heat transfer in those two rooms was terrible initially but after applying the film we noticed a significant difference in these two rooms. Now they both feel as comfortable as the rest of the house.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Excellent DIY upgrade for old windows. Conditionally recommended
*by D***R on July 8, 2019*

I bought an older home that was a bit of an efficiency disaster. Old and inadequate insulation, single pane windows, poor attic venting were my biggest offenders. I knew windows were expensive, but I wasn't expecting to get a $20k quote back FOR A SINGLE ROOM. Sure, it has several 8' x 4' picture windows, but the ROI for the windows was not going to be anytime inside of my lifetime. I got a company to give me a quote on low-e film installation, and it was not reasonable either (in my opinion). I purchased Gila Heat Control Light Gray Adhesive Residential DIY Window Film, a starter application kit, several extra bottles of solution, and decided to do it myself. After putting this film on several windows and doors, I have some observations. First of all, the film is great. Once installed, the film dramatically cuts down on the heat the heat the windows were previously responsible for. With no other changes the film dropped my electricity bill by about $150/mo. in the summer months. That's a very large, energy inefficient house in Houston's sun - YMMV. Second, this film has the nice side benefit of stopping indoor sun bleaching of flooring and fabrics. Third, this film does tint the windows and cut down on some of the visible light. This doesn't bother me, but it is something to keep in mind if you are big on your natural light. Finally, the film is more or less reflective from the outside when the outdoor light exceeds the indoor light... and it's not reflective at all when it's brighter indoors. So, now that you know what it will do for you, let's get into the installation. The film comes on a large roll, and it helps to keep the box as a dispenser. Aside from protecting the film, it does act as a bit of a straight edge for cutting off of the roll. When you actually want to install some film, you will clean the window as well as you can, being sure to make sure no lint or fibers are left behind. Gila has an installation starter kit with a good cloth to use for this. You will also want to make sure that you install the film when it's light outside, BUT WHEN NO DIRECT SUNLIGHT IS ON THE WINDOW! This is very important, as it makes it very difficult to keep enough of the solution between the film and the glass. Having ambient light makes it much easier to see bubbles. I installed about half of my windows only cutting the film to length, but have found it easier to cut the pieces to the approximate length and width (especially for deep sills). You can use tape to peel apart the backing from the film. It really helps to have two people fir the installation, but I did most of my windows alone. You spray the window with the application solution (from the top down, as it flows down anyway), but you have to be quick about it. Once you've placed the film, you squeegee the air bubbles and solution out from the top-middle, out the sides, and then down the center and out the sides (bit by bit, down the length). The solution and the squeegee are also in the starter kit, though I'm sure there are other options. After wiping down the excess solution at the window frame, I trim the film back to about 1/4" from the edge of the glass. I use a metal straight edge that's backed in cork, so it doesn't scratch the film. The metal part is handy because I use a razor blade to trim the film. I DON'T use the cutter in the starter kit, because it's awful. Glass is very had and will dull your razor quickly... change the razor out pretty frequently. I leave a 1/4" margin because of how my windows are secured into the frame. There's adhesive that makes the surface irregular at the very edge, plus you do need some room to get the excess solution out. Depending on your windows, you may leave smaller margins, but I'd resist the urge to go all the way to the edge, as it may peel or bubble at the edge with thermal expansion and contraction of the glass. The smaller the glass surface, the easier it will be to apply the film. For anything over 8 sqft, I'd recommend having another person on hand. I did several of the 8' x 4' picture windows by myself (with a 48" Gila roll), and I did it by peeling back the backing only at the top of the sheet. Once the top was placed, I temporarily taped it in place. I peeled the backing down the sheet a foot at a time, spraying behind the film as I went. You can do it, but I'd be lying if I said it was easy or time efficient. Bribe a friend with a pizza or alcohol and it will go much faster, and probably with better results. What's a bad result? Well, I ended up junking about 5 windows worth of film. I accidentally creased the film. I accidentally had the film's adhesive contact another part of the film's adhesive (which creates a surface imperfection you can't do anything about), I accidentally cut a piece too small, and I had bubbles I couldn't do anything about post-installation. Almost all of these problems can be avoided by using two people. Sometimes, though, stuff happens... and that's when you're glad you bought a hundred feet of this stuff. Personally, I think this is a no-brainer for anyone who doesn't already have low-e windows. I would buy the installation kit, and 2 extra bottles of solution per 100' roll. An extra squeegee is a good idea if you've got help. The only reason I've only given a conditional recommendation is because installation isn't easy. If you've got two people, and you follow what I've written above, it's not really all that HARD either. The main thing to keep in mind is that not everyone does tasks like this well. It's sort of like the subset of the population that has problems assembling Ikea furniture. I suspect there may be a convergence on the Venn diagram. However, if you've done basic home DIY stuff before, you can probably do this, too. I just suggest starting with smaller windows and refining your technique on those. Conditionally recommended.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Pretty easy to do, just takes patience and some attention to detail.
*by A***N on August 13, 2023*

My house has a eight south facing windows in our main room. They're older, contractor grade and would heat up a ton when in direct sunlight. My upstairs was basically the same temp as outside from the heat coming through those windows and flowing up. So far, I've done six of them with this product, and plan to do the rest, and my north windows as well. I have a couple observations for anyone considering doing this. First, you can totally do it by yourself if the window is less than 3ft tall, or less than 2ft wide but tall. The instructions on the box suck, watch the video and read the paper copy hidden in the roll of film. Surface prep is important. Use windex, a microfiber towel (get a bulk pack) and a disposable razor to get everything off the glass including the corners. Do all the prep before you start working with the film. I started trying to do all my cuts and stuff on the kitchen island, but ended up working on the tile/epoxy floor for logistical reasons. When you unroll the film, unroll it with the adhesive cover side up, and the film against the ground. Use some packing tape, or double stick tape and attach the film side to the ground on one end (the top). Unroll as much length as you need and use something to hold the free end of the film down. I used a wooden yard stick. Cut your length and put the roll away. The soap solution works well, is clear and doesn't stain anything so don't worry about spilling it on anything. After spraying the window liberally, I started removing the protective cover at the side I had attached to the ground (the top), spraying soap solution liberally every 3-4 inches of unrolling. (as others have said, packing tape handle on the film, packing tape handle on the cover, pull apart works great.) Since the adhesive is exposed, it's important to turn off any fans, and keep the adhesive wet. After the protective layer is removed, the soap weighs enough to keep the section from coiling back up. Since you cut a section larger than your window, I'd start installation by grab the film corners (on the bottom of the section) directly touching the adhesive. Pick it up while you stand up, and detach the tape from the floor. Go to your window, line up the film edge you're holding slightly above the top of the window and stick it on. Since your film section is larger than the window, and you're going to trim off the excess anyway, I focused more on getting a good fit in the middle of the window and squeegeeing my way to the edge before trimming off the excess with the cutter tool they sell and then doing touch ups. A rubber squeegee helps a lot here, but you can absolutely do it with a credit card, or the tool. I kept a couple microfiber cloths around to help mop up the excess soap that I was pushing out during the process and that helped a ton. At first i was really paranoid about accidentally trimming too much/to early but in practice I haven't found that to be an issue. Once the center is adhered well, trim the top, keep squeegeeing, trim the left, trim the right, trim the bottom and keep squeegeeing. I had to modify that routine for a couple windows and start trimming on the left and right due to gravity, but at the end of the day, as long as the center is adhered, the film isn't going to shift while you're removing air bubbles or excess fluid. I think using a rubber squeegee for the first pass, getting everything adhered, and shifting to a card squeegee is probably your best bet. My first window was too small for my rubber squeegee, so I did the 1.5ftx6ft window with just the card squeegee. It took a while, but at the end of the day it worked. Figuring out your work space for removing the layer from the adhesive is the hardest part, but again; Be liberal with the soap and don't worry about making a mess. It's dye free, and will not stain anything. For my upstairs, I realized I'm going to need to use some folding tables as my workspace due to only having carpet up here. In terms of real world results, so far I've noticed a significant reduction in heat already. It's 96F outside right now, and it would normally be 90ish up here, but it's only 85F. I need to work on the attic of course, but every little bit helps, and it's practically an invisible upgrade. Any weekend DIYer or professional home owner can do this; just follow the actual instructions not the abbreviated ones on the box. I used the legit installation tools/solutions for what it's worth. EDIT: I started with the 18ft rolls, and ended up ordering a 100ft roll after some additional windows got slated for film coverage. The 18ft rolls are pretty unwieldy but the 100ft roll comes on a giant spool like a roll of aluminum foil. I was worried the 100ft was going to come loose, but it's well packaged on the spool. I would suggest getting a single 18ft roll, to try it out, and then get a 100ft spool for the bulk of your project.

## Frequently Bought Together

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*Product available on Desertcart Japan*
*Store origin: JP*
*Last updated: 2026-03-12*