Ekopel 2K Bathtub Refinishing Kit - New Tool Kit Coming 12/23 - Odorless DIY Sink/Tub Reglazing Kit - 20X Thicker Than Other Tub Kits- No Peel Pour On Tub Coating - Bright Gloss Tub Coating (White)

I did a ton of research about refinishing bathtubs and ultimately settled on Ekopel 2k. It felt like a bit of a risk because it was so much pricier than the Rustoleum alternative, but I really wanted it to turn out well. As you can see our tub was disgusting (it was like this when we moved in) so I really had nothing to lose, but I am still really pleased with the result. Well worth the extra cost imo. I watched the videos on their website (including the 2 hour long one) and had no major issues following the process. I definitely didn’t do a perfect job — there are some major drips on the outside wall of the tub, and a few dog hairs are permanently embedded— but overall I am really happy with how it turned out. The only downside is that it did have more smell than I thought it would, but it seems like the other products are way way way worse in this regard so. Not a big deal. This was just done over the weekend so I can’t speak to longevity, but the coating seems really thick and solid so I am feeling hopeful. Overall I would absolutely recommend this product. Thanks to Ekopel for making this product and for making so many resources to support first-timers.

Just redid my kitchen sink with the gloss white pour on. It was an older American Standard enameled "Americast" drop in sink (think of it as a weird lightweight cast iron). Can't buy these anymore, and I didn't want to build out bracing for an actual cast iron that would have weighed a lot more, nor put in a stainless steel. Sanding the old sink was the hardest part, had to start with 40 grit then 80 grit, would be much easier for plastic of fiberglass obviosuly. I had to patch the inside of the sink for a couple small chips, but also because the enamel was so thin on the bottom of one sink bowl you could see through it. I used short strand glass fiber bondo for this. Applied two layers. ***You really want to feather this in and make sure it is entirely smooth.*** I used denatured alcohol for my wipe down. Taped the drains closed from the underside, got my sink in the brace I built for it (1x3s) and got to work. Mixed it up by the instructions, used a couple small cups to drizzle over the surface. Used the provided 4 inch roller to then push the material around (have a second or third one ready just in case the first falls apart or anything) Hit it with the heat gun to get rid of any bubbles. This took 30-40 mins on the first pour. After 100% coverage i scooped out most of the excess, pushed the stuff up to the sides it one last time to make sure it was self-leveling in the bowl, and pulled the tape off the drains to let the excess drain out. ***Again*** I was not hooked up to plumbing, I was just draining this into some aluminum pie tins. Came back 15 mins to hit with the heat gun. During these is where I saw the only spot that didn't look amazing was where I failed to prep the bondo as smooth as I should. I added a little more material to jus tthat spot and applied a little heat. ***Be careful with the heat gun at this stage as it decreases the viscosity of the material and you'll be thinning it. So go light on any heat after first application. Came back every 30 mins for 2 hours just to monitor it. I let it cure for 72 hours before sanding any drips on the underside smooth. You probably could sand and polish imperfections if you let it fully cure (30 days?) but you are going to have to be very careful. It only sets up about 1mm thick on vertical surfaces and 2 mm thick on horizontal. After 72 hours I put it back in the counter. So what are the results, well it is beautiful. Bottom line: Surface prep is key and the hardest work, scuffing enameled surfaces is rough I had to start with 40 grit and then 80 grit pads and it took a while. Material is very easy to apply and works well. Self-leveling is great, is a very glossy finish, thickness is high compared to paint, is resistant to denting. I'll see again how it looks in a year but so far I really am impressed expect this was a great value. After 2 weeks I am seeing some surface scratches, you can see them, not feel them. Which is expected, it isn't going to be as hard as enamel. Very low odor, far less pungent than windex, and very faint. I still put it in a separate room that had it's own ventilation, just because I can't smell whatever (and I suspect in low amounts) it is off gassed doesn't mean i want to . I just put it in that room, and after it had set for four hours and had a bit of a surface I cracked a window, and applied a little negative pressure venting outside. My goal with waiting 4 hours is so any dust that landed on it wouldn't be embedded in the material and could be cleaned off with a wipe down.

I’m just going to swallow my pride and admit this: I made just about every single clumsy, amateur mistake I could have. My bathtub still looks amazing. Hopefully, you can learn from my mistakes. For DIY’ers — resurfacing the tub isn’t a simple project. The amount of prep work that goes into this is no joke. I probably spent 3 hours cleaning the tub, sanding it down, removing caulk, and removing drains and fixtures. My tub was ~40 years old, so the tub drain was pretty stubborn to get off. Three trips to Home Depot and $80 later, I got that corroded old tub drain out. I ended up having to buy a $20 tub drain remover tool. I only bring this up because I had a few surprise expenses that, had I known about before hand, I would have gladly paid a professional to deal with. I got a great arm workout stirring the heavy material in the bucket. I may have broken a sweat even. The product poured on nicely and evenly, and with some coaxing with the foam roller I managed to get an even coat. I did exactly what the videos taught me; around the edges, then the center, then the outside. Over pour, let the product drip, and collect the extra material. At this point, I feel like a true professional. No sticky goo anywhere but in the tub and I’m watching the stuff level out. Proud of my accomplishments (and thirsty), I decide to grab a beer and use the beer bottle as a dam to prevent goo from dripping into the drain (mistake #1). Two hours later, I came back to remove any goo from the drain that may have collected there. Not wearing gloves (mistake #2), I decided to brace myself on the top wall of the tub (mistake #3) and bend over to pull up the damn. Immediately after putting my hand in a pile of white sticky goo I realized what I’d done, and furiously scrubbed my hands with soap. Did I mention this stuff is thick and sticky? Soap wasn’t making any progress — I decided I needed to resort to chemicals, so I went to the closet to find some Goo Gone (leaving a trail of white goo on the handles — mistake #4). After I cleaned myself up, I was able to use the roller to apply some more solution and the spot ended up evening out ok. After I collected myself, I returned to remove the dam around the drain. The solution had started to thicken up quite a bit and it was tough to pull the bottle up. I gently twisted and pulled and removed the beer bottle. In doing so, I managed to pull up my taped off drain cover (mistake #5). The goo was stuck to the bottom of the bottle, and in an effort to keep it out of my drain, I pulled the bottle while twisting and turning it, trying to control the dripping of goo. This caused the last few drops of beer to land in the direct center of the tub (mistake #6). With 2 problems before me, having visions of explaining my embarrassing predicament to a plumber, I decide to focus on the white goo spilling into my drain first. I sprayed Goo Gone on a paper towel and tried to get any of the goo off the threads of the drain first. I eventually got most of it out and setup a walled dam using more painters tape. By the time I got to the drops in the middle of the tub, I few had sank in but I was able to wipe most of them down with a wet paper towel. It wasn’t until the next day did I realize I had made mistake #7 — please double check your paper towels are free of dog hair before doing this. After ~20 hours, the solution had dried and hardened quite a bit. There’s only a few small artifacts of my Three Stooges-esque handyman work. Regardless, the tub looks night and day better than it did. I was able to use an abrasive pad and remove any hair that found its way into the tub. In short: - I found the videos very easy to follow. - I think the product is very high quality - The product is impossibly sticky; I would have really appreciated a video on “how to clean this stuff off” - My bathtub looks AMAZING despite all of the “happy little accidents” - Don’t drink and resurface your bathtub.

Was great, looked great then a few months went by, it got a small chip then it started discoloring and flaking.......and yup I followed all instructions thoroughly..... I definitely don't recommend.

Ok. So pretty good product, but very difficult to get right. I watched all the YouTube, followed all directions. If you are okay with slightly less than perfect here are a few tips. I am ok with mine, looks better than ugly pink tile, and WAY cheaper (not necessarily faster) than retiling. My over sized stand alone shower, spa tub, and 60inch tub with tile wall each took 2 lg buckets, so I did 6 buckets of this stuff and I'm now waiting on 1 touch up kit. Focus on each one independently. Don't do 2 in 1 day even if scrubbing, even if taping are done day before. Because you want to baby sit the 1 project for a full 2 hours and then some. I thought I have quiet a bit left over I'll get going on shower to make sure I have enough. Bad choice. I did not babysit tub enough and the drips are evident. When you use lysol toilet bowl cleaner dont let it touch fixtures it ruined it. Clean, then fully dry, then tape. Tape everything with solid connection/stick. If it doesn't epoxy moves it and gets under it. Tape drain exactly where you don't want epoxy. Make sure to protect the floor it will drip and get on it. Have a trash can easy to dumb stuff in for when you change gloves, and trash rollers. It starts to harden about 90 minutes after mixing, touch ups on drips are okay for about 30 more minutes, but you want full project done by 90 minutes. It will smear and ruin your work for the next 24 hours. Any hair, mosquito, or drip will be impossible to fix after first 120 min until it is 24 hours dry. Just leave it. Remove tape when it is 120 minutes dry. But, oh so carefully. I pulled tape from wall as carefully as possible and caught the end in the epoxy and smeared it. It never leveled back out. I will have to chip out and touch up kit it. But, if you don't remove tape then it hardens in the epoxy and chips and breaks more. After messing it up and not able to reach jet drains I left them. See pics. This stuff is THICK GOOD QUALITY. As such it drips after making wall nice pretty and smooth. By 3rd project I followed this order. Section 1 pour at high point, used GLOVED HANDS to finger smothe it as far as material would go (this worked way better than included roller), changed gloves, used roller to smooth as much as possible, move to next section and follow same procedure, but after rolling I would roll section 1 again and by time I was done roll section 2 again before pouring section 3. Follow this until it is applied everywhere. The side you cant see of the tub must be smoothed over several times. You won't see it dripping so you must be very intentional here. You finish the project, change gloves and smooth it out for the next 20 minutes. Make sure not puddling at drain get it scooped out if it is. Watch for puddling around edges of shower, keep smoothing it out. As you watch for drips remove tape VERY CAREFULLY. Target Baby wipes take it off skin and oops really well when done immediately. 320 grit sand paper if drys more. Have a hole box of disposable gloves. Switch them out and save your sanity.