MICROJIG GRR-RIPPER GR-100 3D Table Saw Pushblock, Yellow

These are awesome. I'm an old man and wish they'd been around years ago.These are worth every penny. Although I still have all my fingers and both thumbs, these are a must for anyone in the modern wood shop.Versatility and safety in a single package.

Great way to make cuts and not work about loosing fingers. Also bought one for my dad. Great product. Would recommend.

There was a piece initially missing but I went to the official website and emailed them and they reached back to me immediately and sent me the parts I needed no questions asked, highly recommend this product. It’s very nice! Thank you so much! Will definitely be buying again!

They call it a "Micro" jig for a reason. This is suitable for cutting small pieces and doing a lot of them. Since you have to completely set the jig up for every cut you make it is a lot of setup when you are making only one cut. Also you can only raise the blade a little bit so it sneaks in under the "roof" of the push block. I like my blade raised up higher so when it enters the wood it is pulling the stock down onto the table saw not right at you.I'm keeping it as well as the GRR-RIP BLOCK because I will find that very useful when using the router table; it's great for that.For the table saw I have been using the Vermont American 26778 Push Shoe Assembly which is currently unavailable. You can Google that to get the idea by seeing it here on the Amazon page.Everyone has their own way of doing things, and I have been woodworking professionally. I use leather gloves like they sell at Home Depot. I realize that the table saw blade only moves one way. So anything you do on the side of the blade that is closer to you is not going to result in a finger loss.So I take my larger boards and support them, and feed them into the blade by using my hand as a guide to push them into the fence and allow the board to slip by. That is why the leather glove is so important; it slides real nice. You can't do that with your bare fingers. I keep the push stock Vermont American handy just to the right side of the fence, and when I am finishing my cut, I pick it up, and hook the rear tab on the edge of the wood. My pushing motion is at a 45 degree angle toward the fence, not the blade. So if there is a slip my hand is moving over the fence not into the blade. Since the Vermont American is so tall my hand is always well above the height of the blade. Once I pass through the blade, and the piece is not south of the blade I give the V American a little twist and it pushes the cut piece just a little away from the blade to the left side. So I am not placing anything, or grabbing anything to the north side of the blade. That is the danger zone. Everything is done making contact between the wood and the fence.Okay so now back to the Gripper. If you are making repeatable cuts and you need let’s say 1/4" cuts the gripper is ideal for that. Myself personally I don't like working under such tight tolerances when it comes to gripping the stock. It brings a lot of dangerous possibilities into the mix. The Gripper virtually eliminates all of those risks. It's a pain to have to set it up for each cut, but if you are making a lot of the same pieces it is worth it.What I do when making sliver cuts for stock that is real thin, I run the large part of the board between the fence and the blade, and leave the sliver to the outside of the blade. You may be thinking why do that? You won't be getting consistent cuts that way. Normally that is correct, but I have an Incra Table Saw fence I bought here at Amazon but I don't see them carrying it anymore. It cuts accurately to within a thousandth of an inch, repeatedly, easily. Too much to explain. But anyhow I also use the Forrest Woodworker II blade which is exactly one eighth of an inch wide. So I can dial in the fence to be whichever size I need, plus one eighth to account for the blade. Perfect repeatable cuts without having to worry about trapping a quarter inch wide piece of wood between the blade and the fence and having to squeeze your push block along that narrow trough.You could do this manually with any saw by simply making up a sample guide piece that is the width you need, plus whatever the thickness of your blade is. Then you manually adjust the fence using the guide piece and lock it down. You can get some very accurate cuts this way.The alternative is set your fence once and forget it using the GRR-Ripper 3D but once again you are making a very inflexible cut. No matter how you look at it if you blade catches the edge of the gripper something ugly is going to happen.This is all about safety and the Gripper enhances that for small pieces. It's not cheap, but neither is losing a finger. I will be getting a lot more use out of this on the router, and the band saw, or as I mentioned for cutting smaller repetitive pieces on the table saw.

This is a good push stick to keep on the table saw extension table because the non-slip feet keep it where you put it, in spite of machine vibration. I notice there are many knock-offs on the market now, but I don’t buy knock-offs, so I paid extra to have this original brand, however it seems now priced too high in light of availability of so many cheaper knock-offs.I don’t use it as much as I imagined I would, instead opting usually for the wooden shop-made push sticks I DIY’d over the years. Each was made for specific tasks and they don’t require adjustment between uses.This device is steadier and probably safer than my shop made push sticks, but it does require adjustment between uses.You need to keep these parallel to the table saw fence or risk cutting through one of the legs. I accidentally cut into one of the legs of mine, a lesson learned, but found it easy to replace with a readily available replacement part. I like the bright yellow color so as to locate it quickly if I set it down someplace in the shop away from the saw. No complaints to speak of. Recommended.

I own two (2) of these for safety, ease of use, grip, and its quality. For thinner strip being cut on the table saw and various thickness of the stock, this product is adjustable to accommodate.

Saves your hands

I use this so that I can cut relatively small pieces of wood safely on a full-sized 10" blade table saw. I have seen reviews where people say they have to adjust it for different cuts. Uh, that's the point. It's "3D". You can adjust it to fit various cuts exactly. It's not a huge straight foam block for 8' boards, although with two of them leapfrogging you can do that and I have. For the table saw, just make or buy a zero or narrow clearance throat plate and one of these, and you can cut a 6" x 1" piece of hobby wood with the full power of a "real" table saw. You can go right over the blade safely, which was a little scary at first but works. Something I haven't had much success with is using it on a router table--somehow it combines gripping too well with not having resistance to torque, making things actually get away, so for that the conventional orange handle with foam rubber kind of thing is better. For the table saw though, I liked it so much that I got a second one so I can either leapfrog long pieces or keep two configurations ready when I'm making repetitive but alternating cuts. It is pricey, which could make a person balk. But it does the job so much better than the regular ones that it's worth it, the proof of my belief in that being that after trying it I actually got a second one.