2200W Electric T Post Driver with 2 Sleeves (55/70mm), 110V

5 star for the money. Saved me ~$12,000 to DIY my fence. I put 350' of 6' vinyl fence with donuts on driven steel posts (see the SWi Fence YouTube videos). I'm totally satisfied. For less than the cost of a week long rental the Vevor came through, and I prefer the electric over the gas, if you have power where you need it. DIY fence install of 51 steel 2 1/2" posts driven to +3-1/2' in heavy clay. Just sold it to my neighbor for half what I paid for it, still running great. Rental wasn't an option, as I was tearing out the old fence as I drove the new fence, about 4 panels per evening, and a bunch of landscape work, so the project took me most of the fall. Some key points: - Others suggested buying a foot pedal switch. I regret not ordering one. The power switch is very high up, and you really want two hands to hold the post level before you turn it on. Ether find a trigger switch you can tape to the handle, or order a foot pedal for $15. Much safer and easier. - We flipped the handle to the bottom side of the bracket. They should ship it this way. Your post start 8' tall. You don't want the handles to be even higher. - Operated from my small scaffold. Worked great. The platform was about 3' off the ground. I have a very flat lot, but was great to move everything around the yard. - *** Will NOT drive through roots! *** I hit several old tree roots. You will want to by a Spyder or similar core bit with a LONG extension. If you are driving, and it just stops, pull the pole out, core drill the obstruction, send the post back down, and drive to depth. Even a 1.5" old elm root will stop progress. - You need heavy wall posts. The thin wall posts from the home store will crush at the drive end, and get stuck in the post adapter. I was going to use a short thin-wall post to pilot down the first 2 feet to avoid the scaffold. Forget it. Drive the heavy wall fence posts. * Use a sting line. You will have two string lines. The bottom string will locate position front to back. You will measure and mark position left to right. The top string will give you plumb in pitch and roll as well as depth. 1) Set a string along the bottom between your end posts, and measure your spacing. 2) Use a bulb planer (or soup can) to make a pilot hole 2" deep where the post base goes. You need to get this position perfect (1/8" tolerance ideally). 3) Once you pilot the base, the bottom string just gets in the way, you can remove it, or use it for your top string. 4) Place a string across the top of your corner posts, on the inside of the fence (where you will drive from). Use a thin washer to space the line 1/8" in front of the corner post faces. 5) Set your post in the pilot hole. a) Level the post side to side, and place a marker dot on the string at the point that the post is level. b) If you corner posts are plumb, when the post is almost touching the string, front to back it is vertical. c) If you are on the dot, you are vertical side to side. 6) Hoist the Vevor BEAST into place. You can keep your eye on the sting and mark, and steer the post as needed to get it in a perfect line. Try to avoid the post touching your sting, or your string line will keep walking back with each new post - thus the 1/8" spacer from your corner posts, so the post ALMOST touches the string, but has a visible gap. 7) Have a piece of tape with a mark one the post driver adapter that shows when you are at total depth. Yes, the string at the very top of the post is fine. The adapter will hit the string for the last few inches, but at that depth, you can't steer it anymore - the post is where it is. We started out with my dad holding a level and checking both sides as I drove the posts. I was concerned about the Vevor dropping on his head if I lost control while reaching for the power switch with one hand. I kept improving the string method described above to the point that my last 10 posts I drove alone had the tightest tolerance. I will say - I needed every inch of adjustment I had with the donut adapters, but some of that was learning curve. Hopefully with my experience shared above, your project is awesome from the first post. I did rent an auger and set the corners in three bags of cement, as well as the gate posts, but that was probably excessive. All driven posts would have worked fine.

Definitely saves your shoulders when compared to doing it the old fashioned way! It’s a little heavy (around 50 pounds), but once you have it on the t-post, it works well. It’s loud, so wear hearing protection, but no more loud than driving manually. The only complaint we have with it is that the power button is in an inconvenient spot. It’s awkward to turn it on/off compared to where you hold it during use. Overall, it’s a very good product that works as it should. I would recommend it.

I purchased this pile driver primarily for driving ground rods, and it has exceeded my expectations. I had previously been using an SDS Max rotary hammer with a ground rod attachment, but it struggled with power and made the job more difficult than it needed to be. This tool is a night-and-day difference. It delivers consistent, strong impact and drives rods quickly with far less effort. What really stood out to me is how much easier it is on the body—especially the shoulders—compared to traditional methods. If you’re doing multiple ground rods, this makes a big difference over time. The unit feels solid and well-built, and it’s straightforward to operate. For anyone in electrical work or fencing who needs to drive rods regularly (or even occasionally), this is absolutely worth the investment. Overall, this was the right tool for the job, and I would definitely recommend it to others.

Did a good job for a short period of time. Defiantly not designed for extended use. Based on the cost of the unit for the number of posts it was able to drive it is very expensive. Overheated and quit driving with any vigor. There is absolutely zero customer service available and no resolution on problems after the 30 day amazon return period.

​This driver is a total powerhouse, sinking posts into the earth like it's sliding through sand. It saves a massive amount of labor and cuts fencing time in half. ​Suggested Improvement ​Add a finger trigger to the handle. A built-in switch would significantly improve safety and make the tool much easier to control during operation.

So I have been using this for 2" steel pipe and it has worked quite well with a few issues that can be addressed. The parts on this come loose on just about every bolt. I would assume this is to be expected based on the amount of vibration and pounding. Loctite probably should have been used at the factory. It gets 4 stars because customer service actually responded quickly when I had a question about the grease. FYI they said use a #3 grease (which was not the easiest to find).

Will absolutely pound t posts. It is heavy and if you are using over 6ft t posts its tricky with the height. Id say a 2 man operation as well to stand everything up and get it started. Also of course limited w power but runs nice on a generator. With that said, once you get started it goes really well and fast. My ground is clay and limestone and I was very surprised at how this machine would break up the rock and keep going down. With material staged and measured you can put a post a minute or more. Was going to pay 200 bux to rent one and very happy to have this machine!

Worked well then suddenly began to smoke and spark. Less than 28 posts installed. I had only used it about 6 hours of total use in 2 days. Does work well, but then it died! Amazon warranty is only 30 days. HIGOSPRO doesn't show any type of warranty. Hoping they make this right with me. Over $300 price tag! **UPDATE** (Changed from 1 star to 3) Contacted Higos and they began the process for a full refund. After I used this, I am certainly willing to buy another one and give it a second try. Hopefully the 2nd one doesn't suddenly stop working.