BOTKU 12V 10Ah Lithium LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery, 3000+ Cycle Rechargeable Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery for Solar, Fish Finder, Power Wheels, Lighting, Off-Grid Applications with 10A BMS

So far, so good. Hope they outlast traditional lead acid in my UPS.

I bought 2 BOTKU LIFEPO4 12.8V 10AH 128WH for my Cyberpower cp1500pfclcd. Wanted to see if LIFEPO4 battery would work. I fully charged the batteries on a separate charger to 13.5v (at rest). Ran the UPS at about 100W and it lasted 110 minutes until shutdown - 11.5v at rest (Meaning ~5% power left in the batteries). I let the UPS fully charge them and it stopped at 13.0v. Good to AGM but not high enough for LIFEPO4. Less than 40% of the capacity. I put the same load on and only got 15-16 minutes run time (when charged by the UPS). Cyberpower website say that I should get 66 minutes on AGM with 100watt load. The LIFEPO4 batteries worked well. Basically twice the run time of an AGM. Probably great news for many other uses. Its my UPS that is not compatible. I gambled it could be a replacement. Was wrong. But great batteries. Update a week later: good news. After letting the LIFEPO4 battery in the UPS a few days, the residual voltage began to climb by about 0.1V per day, to stabilize at 13.5V. Well, at that voltage level, the LIFEPO4 is fully charged. Ran for 100 minutes with ~100watt load. Will the trickle charge of the UPS eventually damage the battery? Time will tell. Even if life cycles are cut in half, or the reserve is reduced, is still better/cheaper than AGM type. And the UPS cuts off while the battery still has a 5-10% left due to the difference in voltage between AGM and lifepo4. This is good as the BMS does not lock the battery for being too discharged.

I have purchased 4 of these at different times for powering homemade boomboxes. They deliver excellent power and run a long time for the application I’m using them in. Most of these builds have been in a rolling case about carry on sized with 400-500 watt amplifiers in them. Highly recommend!

I bought the 20ah and a 30ah. I'm using them to run my Garmin Livescope system which I'm viewing on a Garmin 1022. Total draw is estimated at 3.6 amps. I wanted the 30ah for my primary and the 20 for a backup in case the 30 ran down before I was finished. So here's the rub. So far, I've only had one trip (the first trip out) that the 30ah worked right. Every trip ever since that one, it has dropped below 12v within 30 minutes of using it and I've had to switch to the 20ah (which has worked flawlessly). I really wish that I had waited to buy these batteries until the weather would allow me to go more. If I had, I would've returned the 30ah battery after the 2nd trip. I just went fishing again yesterday. Both batteries were 100% charged when I left for the lake. As soon as I hooked up the 30ah to my electronics, it was only reading 12.1 volts. Within 15 minutes, my alarm was going off on the graph saying low voltage. It was already down to 11.8 volts. 5 minutes later the graph was preparing to shut down and I had to swap out for the 20ah battery. Fortunately, the 20ah battery ran my fish finder for the rest of the day with no issues, maintaining 12.5 volts the whole time. I bought this in January, so it's too late to return it now, so I guess I'll have to trash it and buy another one. I will not be buying this brand again. At least it wasn't as expensive as others I've seen, but I still feel like I was ripped off. Had it worked as well as the 20ah has (so far), I would've felt like I got a great deal. Buyer beware. Update 6/7/2024 Now I've used this battery several times and I've tried everything to try and make it work right. Someone posted that I needed to drain it all the way down and then recharge it. I hooked up a small 12v fishing light to it, but it cut the power off to the light as soon as it got into the high 11v range. I can charge it up to the point of reaching around 12.5v, but that seems to be the limit. As soon as you remove the charger, the voltage starts to drop on its own. I took it fishing one last time last weekend and this time it only ran the fish finder about 5 minutes before my low voltage alarm started going off on the fish finder. Within 10 minutes, the fish finder turned off and I had to switch to the 20ah battery....which, to it's credit, has worked flawlessly up to this point. Maybe I just got a bad battery. I don't know. Again, I really wish that I'd have used it sooner so could have returned it. At least that way I'd know if this is the norm from this company and the 20ah is the exception, or vice-versa.

After two years they have been reliable I must say. Then my gf serve me some hot fresh cheeks for me hard work!

I wanted a battery for portable ham radio operation, something I could use for an hour or two with my TF_891 but was light enough I could backpack it. The rig can draw16-18 Amps on transmit but that's peak; average SSB even at 100W will be less as SSB is not full duty cycle. On receive, an amp or is all that's needed. I was able to operate for over an hour, not too much transmitting, and put less than 4Ah back into on charge. I had intended to dial my rig back to 60watts but forget and I learned that for a session that long, it's not needed. The BMS (Battery Management System) through me for a bit. I have several very good chargers for electric RC aircraft batteries. I tried each of those in LiFePO4 mode and all they did was throw errors. But now I suspect the way the BMS is designed is to make this "look like" a lead acid battery. I tried on 12V lead acid mode and it charges fine with one more thing to be aware of. After charging for a while, the "connection break" error is thrown by the charger. I suspect that is the BMS simply sensing the battery is fully charged and disconnecting. How good is this battery? You cannot tell with a review of a battery that's a month old. The real test will be how it work in a year or two after 50-100 cycles.

Great batteries. Use them in my handicap scooter and they last all day, maybe two days.

Great Value