Liqui MolyPro-Line Diesel Intake System Cleaner | 400 ml | Workshop Product | SKU: 20208

Have both a 2016 Colorado 2.8 and 2014 Cruze 2.0 turbo diesels. Both were showing signs of poor combustion and/or clogged intake systems. Took off the intercooler tube and sprayed into the throttle body while the motor was held at 2000 RPM as per the LiquiMoly instructions. WOW! both vehicles are running fantastic now. very little smoke, only a little when stepping on the accelerator from a stand-still. I can tell both vehicles are more responsive to the throttle. I will be buying more of this stuff to keep on hand.

Used on a 2015 F250 6.7L, visually seeing the soot build up in the intake system lead me to replace basically my entire intake system. (11mpg highway) I went with Full Pusher intake system, Mishimoto Intercooler, even brand new Lower intake manifold (also known as valve covers) and got them completely acid washed, degreased, and powder coated. and Yes, also a CCV Reroute so i wont have this issue again. HOWEVER, even thou things got better (15mpg highway now) i still had a hick-up on start up, it took one too many revolutions to start compared to my other buddies. Almost sounded like a valve wasn't closing all the way or something, some sort of lack of compression maybe, I'm not sure. However knowing my entire system is New and Clean i kind of figured the intake ports in the actual head leading to valves should be covered in soot. I went with this product, got the motor hot (190 degrees) and went ahead and removed my intake piping kit leading into the motor and soaked everything and let it sit for about 10 mins, turned the truck on and sounded like a 12v cummins on a -10 degree morning. The truck barely wanted to start, but it did and i revved her to about 3kRPM and held it for 2 minutes id say and then kicked it back down to high idle at about 900rpm. I did this treatment twice and ill be the first to tell you that she turns over and starts like a brand new truck. Even the boys mentioned how crispy she turns over and starts. For reference we all have 6.7L Power-strokes. One has a 17, the other a 20, and the other a 23.Highly recommend to all my Diesel bros

The media could not be loaded. I bought this product because it is for Diesel intake and is from Germany. My car is diesel, with about 180k miles on it, and from Germany so well matched! After using the whole can, the EGR issue is GONE! It's a great product and worked exactly as expected.

I have not had a chance to use the product

First of all, if you follow the instructions listed on the Liqui-Moly site, you will need an extra person to help you use this. You need someone to keep the RPM's at 2000 while you spray this in short bursts into your intake tract. The engine will rev higher with each spray so you have to wait for the RPM's to drop back down and give it another burst. I noticed my throttle feels snappier after using this. I was getting a stored code from the swirl flap sensors on my van and now I don't so it must have helped. My complaint is the price. It is nearly double that of other sellers on the internet so while I would use the product again, I will not purchase it here.

Appears to have helped break down the oily soot buildup in my 2016 Ram ecodiesel. Really it's the only product out there for in place intake cleaning. I moved the probe around a lot. The can took a long time to empty using the instructions. I extended the spray intervals to about double recommended with no apparent side effects. Be aware of oil residue spray coming out of your disconnected air supply tube since the turbo is still going. I'm tempted to try upstream of the intercooler to see if it cleans it out some as well. Worth the time and money I think, to delay the eventual pull and clean of the egr valve and intake plenum.

VW dealer says my daughter needs new intake manifold and everything else on the car that contains the word intake or air. 2012 sportwagen tdi. I also bought an aluminum block to eliminate excess travel on the manifold runner to eliminate a code for that. I was unable to keep the car running while dispensing per instructions so I drilled a hole just before the manifold runner switch and threaded a bolt into it after dispensing. I will just remove the bolt if we need to do this again. Much easier than removing a hose. I erased the associated codes and it's been good for a couple weeks now.

i bought 1 can initially and ran it through from the filter side.. it got my P200A and P200B codes to go away for a few miles but eventually the codes came back. I thought - Hey.. that helped, what if i researched a better way of running the can to further clean it?During my research, I found the "right" way of applying this (pulling the intake pipe and spraying directly through the throttlebody) i also.. found people saying that it could clog the DPF.. i thought, eh, it isn't going to be THAT bad, i know what I'm doing.And that, dear readers is where it all fell through. I ran it and it seemed to be really cleaning it out. Engine sounded really strong. i let it cool down, as instructed and took it for a drive. I suddenly found myself in Nopesville, population me. I had no throttle at all. Initially i had an "electronic throttle system error" come up on my dash that eventually went away. But i had absolutely no throttle response and the truck would not run, or even want to keep itself alive. I got out and found My DPF glowing HOT WHITE. I shut it down.. and waited for it to cool down so i can assess the damages.I found the transmission pan bubbed from the heat, some wire harnesses melted and it also would not start.Beyond my knowledge of emissions, i took it into a shop. my DPF is clogged and chunks came off and started melting my SCR/CAT. $7k for the DPF and another $7k for the SCR/CAT. among the other $100's for the now-melted O2 and other sensors.