ICM Controls ICM288 Furnace Control, Low Cost Replacement for Rheem 62-24084-82 Control Boards

Product worked as advertised, was easy to hook up(well labeled), it has been running for a month now with no issues. Recommend to anyone else needing a product like this.

I have now purchased two of these units for two different Rheem furnaces. The first, two years ago, and the second was just installed. The board connections are clearly labeled, with connections in almost the exact locations as the original boards. (see the first photo). After disconnecting power from the furnace, I removed and carefully labeled the wires to ensure I put them back in the correct locations. The original board was held in place by nylon spacers which I chose to cut rather than simply remove by squeezing with pliers (either method would work, but the board comes with replacement standoffs). In my specific furnace, the location of two of the standoffs was different enough they wouldn't fit in, so I cut the bottom off and used them as spacers. As the top and bottom fit correctly, this is not an issue. The total replacement time was a little over an hour. Appreciate that there are three bright LED's to show power, firing and fault detection by the board. As the board is easy to install if you label the wires, shown solid reliability for two years, and a much lower price than similar options, it is a good option. Much cheaper than the service technician's statement that a control board can't be found for my brand furnace and it must be replaced Thumbs up.

I was told needed to get a whole new system since my main board was discontinued and lowest estimate was over 8K. I found on the internet USED boards for around $600 and told would cost Me about $800 for install with 0 warranty. found this board after much research and was inspired by the ones who took the time to review and give tips of how to install this type of boards. watched many youtube videos and ALL the revies. ordered and ordered the FLAME SENSOR UPGRADE needed for units that were made before 1994. took Me 3 hours to remove old one and install the new board and the KIT upgrade. (My unit is on the Attic installed laying and no room to comfortably reach the board or wires) LABELED ALL THE WIRES before removing. DID read ALL the papers and made sure that was able to identify each of the connections between my old and new board. shutoff the valve for gas and disconnected power to unit and then, Disconnected each wire and then removed the old board. CONNECTED the wires and installed the board. The upgrade kit was not too hard to install since it came with what I need it and easy instructions. to make your life easier, insert the screws on the plate that will be used in order to "enlarge the opening to the screw size" otherwise will be really hard to insert them in place later. make sure to have the tools needed on hand. look at the parts and screws and figure what you need before starting. read the other reviews to get ideas. look at the images of the sensor flame kit that I took to get the idea. (mine went to pin 7 of the connector. (others are to the igniter and require a voltage meter. GOOD LUCK!!

Just slightly different than OEM, but an easy install. So far so good after a couple of months. Into cold weather now and furnace working as it should. Good deal

This board fit exactly in my Rheem 90-plus 1995 vintage furnace. I did not require the optional flame sensor kit. The Rheem website gave me the details when you inquire with your product namemodel and serial number. I have a Rheem 90-Plus, model RGRA-09EZAJS with a serial number that starts with DF5D707. Your info will get you to where you need to verify the need for a flame sensor kit. This made in the USA board came with the standoffs and mounting clips already on the board and they all aligned perfectly with my existing box, literally a snap into place job. My AC blower fan was not reliably running when the unit kicked on. Sometimes the fan would start, sometimes it would not, it would run for a few seconds up to a few minutes and then shut off on it's own. I'd spin the fan around thinking possibly a dead spot on the winding and turn it off and on a few times to get it running. I moved my cool motor wire to the EAC connection and that gave a little better results but was still just a temporary /emergency/get this thing running attempt. I eventually tapped the fan right into the primary on the board and it ran as long as the unit had power. I had to play human thermostat and turn the unit off and on as I wanted cooling but that was enough to get me through the heat wave. Do not attempt anything you're not comfortable with from my suggestions as I am not a professional and you can mess up more than you started with and possibly end your life messing with electricity carelessly. I examined the board really close from the basement floor with a flashlight but could not find anything obviously wrong. I had to remove the board from the housing and stare at it for a while under some good lights. My problem was a burned diode (D5) and under some good lighting and closer inspection was easily identified. Probably a 25 cent fix if I can get it off the board without destroying it and find the numbers on it, I'll keep it as a backup. A factory replacement board was quoted to me at 291 USD and probably made outside the US, I was very happy to get this board for under 100$ and as a prime member get it at my door in two days.