LET'S RESIN Dice Resin Molds Silicone, DND Dice Epoxy Resin Molds with 7 Standard Polyhedral Stereoscopic Dice Cavities, Silicone Molds for Epoxy Resin, DIY Dices Making, Table Board Game

Pros: -They work AMAZINGLY! I was a little worried that I wasn't going to be able to use it very well, but after a couple practice runs, my holders are coming out almost perfectly every time! I am so glad I bought it! -The end results are awesome! The design and the function of these are great, I love how it looks in the end! Cons: -Not beginner-friendly (see notes below). -Can be kinda persnickety if you're doing a more complicated design (though, again, after a couple practice rounds, it's easy enough). -The corners of the lid are on the more difficult side to get filled. I've found I have to pull up on the lip with one hand, and mush resin from the bottom to fill them in. Notes: -The lid is the mold with the lip, and yes, you must fill it up to the edge or it won't hold. -Do this project in AT LEAST 3 parts, or you'll have messes and soft spots. -The main piece's "lid" (it's not actually the lid, but it acts as one) is the piece with the little tab-thing. Make sure this lines up with the notch in the body of the box. Also, make sure when you do the middle part, you fill it up to just over the point where these two pieces meet, because if you don't, the lid will leak resin while it dries. When you're to the point of filling up this lid, make sure you fill it up out the pour-spout, so that it has room to sink, and reduce bubbles. -This project will take roughly 350-400mL of resin, even though it doesn't look like it should. I usually work it in 100mL segments.

This is absolutely an amazing mold! With a little technique, you can easily get an excellent D20 container, orgiant liquid core Di. Here are my recommendations: Warm the liquid resin after mixing to about 1oo degrees, and pour in layers. Start with about 6 ounces of mixed resin. I used a 1:1 ratio resin and did 3 ounces of part A and then another 3 of part B. 1) Fill the lid to where the corners are, and not to the top of the lid. At the same time make your first pour into the body, filling that to just before the line where you will be connecting the what will be the bottom of the dice (the silicone piece with the plug in it is what I am referring to as the bottom) 2) squeeze around the corners of the lid and push any air bubbles out. This is why you don't want to fill this part all the way first. Otherwise you will make a mess when squeezing out any bubbles trapped in the corners. 3) Remove the plug from the bottom piece and attach onto the body of the mold. There is a pull tab on one lip of the bottom that aligns with a corresponding gap on side of the lip around the edge of the body of the mold. Use a hot glue gun to seal around the edges where the bottom and body of the mold meets. (I put a picture of what this looks like with the review) 4) make up another 6 oz of resin and heat to about 100 degrees (heating helps with removing bubbles). Have a needle or pin handy. Now you can tp off the lid of the mold, then start SLOWLY pouring the resin into the hole provided into your now assembled body and bottom mold piece. The needle is for poking into the hole anytime the resin blocks the hole, which it may during the pour, especially if you are pouring inclusions into the mold like the gold foil I Used. I would NOT recommend putting the plug into the mold. 5) wait about 30 minutes for the resin to settle and bubbles to pop, then make another 2 of of resin and bring to temp. Use this to tip off the body of the mold as the resin settles and bubbles rise. I would check the mold every 15 minutes or so and add mor3 resin as needed until it it done settling. Even with quicker curing resin, I would recommend waiting at least a full 24 hours before attempting to demold. I know that seems involved, but you get great results with a little planning and care. I did have a pressure pot, however it is small and these are not so easily movable into said pot once filled. Plus, they came out fine without the pot. I hope this helps anyone wanting to try this out!

Full disclosure - I have only ever used casting resin for one other project and I did not make dice, so I am not an expert. I got this one to try on a crafting whim. I just mixed up some resin and poured it in my first try and there were so many bubbles and "voids" around the edges. 5 YouTube videos later and my second attempt did look better. Still had some bubbles, but they were decent. I'm not starting a dice making business - this is just a new craft to try - but I gave them to my son's teacher and she really liked them. If you use something fancy like a pressure pot, this mold is too flimsy for that and I feel like it would warp (something I also learned from YouTube). I did weigh the lid down with a large paperback book my second try and it made a difference. They came out of the mold easy enough. If you want to try a mold for fun - its worth the 7 dollars. ***EDIT*** it is not too flimsy for a pressure pot. I used it in a pressure pot and they came out really nice and shiny. You just need to be strategic in how you place the lid to avoid bubbles and weigh it down so it doesn't float up.

Haven't tried yet but they look great. Will leave a review in the near future. Thank you Amazon for the wonderfully made things you offer at a fantastic price

TLDR Version for the ADHDers: There's not one for this one, fam. Read all the words. First you need to know that I have never done any resin work before this and we got into this just to make dice for my son. With that also goes a certain acceptable quality level for the finished product as we were willing to accept some imperfections that I wouldn't be willing to accept if I paid for the dice. The boring stuff - it's nicely packaged and clean. The dice are easy to pop out when they've cured, though you do have to take the resin out of the reservoirs that are in place around the dice with more complex shapes. If you don't pop the cured resin out of the reservoirs before trying to pop out the die in that part of the mold, I think you could run the risk of tearing up the mold. Anyway, not a big thing. I actually like to take that reservoir resin out and use it to know when the resin is cured enough for me to safely remove them. Now what you really came for - the bubbles. Beginner here (a VERY craft one, though), and I don't think you are going to get all the bubbles out without a pressure pot. I just don't. I read through the comments before purchasing so I knew some of the tricks to try to get rid of the bubbles, but the first couple of runs that I did on this mold I still had some large bubbles that nestled in points and corners - those ruin the dice in my opinion. This is my beginner with not a lot of tools and equipment process: 1. Mix resin fully, add whatever colors you're planning to add, then let sit for a bit next to something that vibrates (to get bubbles out). I use a jewelry cleaner, but yeah - whatever you choose is up to you........ How long you let the resin sit depends on what resin you're using and how long it's workable, but mine is workable for up to 40 minutes and I let it sit for about 25 before pouring into the mold. 2. Spoon off any surface bubbles from resin, then slowly pour each mold about 1/3 full. 3. Take a plastic toothpick and slowly run it through the corners, edges, and points. 4. Fill to 2/3 and repeat the toothpick scrape. 5. Fill to top - overpour - and repeat toothpick scrape 6. THIS IS IMPORTANT - run the toothpick around the top inside lips of the more enclosed dice to free the bubbles. 7. Let sit for a few minutes, using a toothpick to guide any bubbles off the side of the mold. 8. While it is sitting, take the lid of the mold and place a little resin on each of the numbers, watch for bubbles, remove them..... 9. As it gets tacky, you're going to roll the top onto the mold - pushing the overpour and bubbles off the side of the mold. I start over the 20 sided and slowly, firmly press as I roll the top down over the mold. Careful not to lift it or create any bubbles. Keep firm pressure on the mold. 10. Look through the top of the mold for any trapped bubbles. If you see any, stick a plastic toothpick in through the lid and mold and rake the bubbles out. 11. Put something heavy on the mold and let it cure. I use a concrete tabletop firepit (see picture). When I demold, I clean up the edges a little but, but otherwise they come out ready to go. My son paints the numbers in with acrylic and he's off to do some dungeoning and dragoning. Rawr.

Doesn't work well for making dice out of PETG. I tried to use up some PETG supports from my 3d models by melting them into dice. The long exposure to 480-500 degrees fahrenheit made the mold rip instead of releasing the plastic. I'm sure it would work great for at least a few batches of dice made of epoxy resin or chocolate though, as that is its intended purpose.

I was skeptic due to the simplicity of the design but I couldn't beat the price so I gave it a try. It took a couple tries to get a process down but the results are fantastic. Big question: Can you use this and not worry about bubbles? Yes, but it takes a little more work. I normally use a pressure pot, but it won't work with this design, at least not any I could find. I heat both parts of my resin (resin and hardener) in hot water for 10 minutes until they are very thin. Remove from the water and mix thoroughly, add whatever color or other additive and then I pour into a small aluminum pan to let the bubbles rise easier. After a few moments, I run a flame over the top to pop the majority of the bubbles on the surface, then slowly (yes, slowly to reduce adding any more bubbles and popping the remaining bubbles. I overpour a little bit and let sit for 5 minutes so remaining bubbles reach the top. I attach the flat piece of the top first and roll it across the top to "move" the thin top layer off. This gets rid of pretty much all remaining bubbles. Put a heavy flat object on top (like a small paint can) and let it sit overnight. Next day, test to make sure it is fully cured, and if there is any flash I put them in the freezer for a could seconds. The cold makes it very brittle and it pops right off. A little trial and error goes a long way!

I’ve made 4 sets of dice with this, and all of them have had issues. This is definitely a get-what-you-pay-for item. Because the cap is flimsy it requires some weight to make sure it stays flush to the base of the mold, but because the base of the mold isn’t solid it easily buckles which makes it easy to end up with warped dice. There’s also the issue of the D20’s 1 having a raised face whereas none of the rest of the dice have that issue (why did they design it this way???). Having a pressure pot definitely reduced the presence of small bubbles getting trapped in the corners, but didn’t help with keeping bubbles from forming at the lid - the flimsiness of it and the wobbliness of the keys makes it really easy to inadvertently introduce air when closing it. They offer an “upgraded” dice mold, but the dice are larger and the numbers are raised instead of recessed making it harder to polish and paint. I ended up ordering a mold from a reputable maker on Etsy. I’m not going to bother wasting any more resin on this one.

A much improved model for making resin dice.

I bought these as an introduction to resin casting and dice making. They work great! It took some figuring out, but once I got the hang of it I had no problems at all. As far as the mould itself goes, I have no complaints whatsoever, and any issues I had with it were easily be solved with a better understanding of the process. So, the rest of this review is just some tips and things I've learned from using this mould. These moulds use a little less than 1.5 oz resin from my testing. My measuring cups only go as low as 1 oz, so I actually bought a second set of these moulds so I wouldn't waste resin. You'll wanna overfill these moulds a little bit, lower the lid on slowly and at an angle, and don't squeeze the lid all the way flush. Resin shrinks as it cures, so leaving that extra bit of resin will prevent the dice from becoming concave. You can remove the flashing easily once they've cured, but having too little resin and a tight seal will create a vacuum, resulting in collapsed faces. You might also want to "paint" the numbers on the lid with some resin before you put the lid on to make sure you get a clean bond and no air pockets. It's a bit messy, but I found it was a lot easier to get good results this way. My first few attempts always had air bubbles in the holes of the 0s on the d100. Once I started pre-filling them, I had no issues. Also be sure to inject resin right to the bottom of the d4, as an air pocket tends to form right at the bottom. I find I have the most trouble getting clean casts of the d4 and the d20: The d4 has very sharp corners, making it easy to create air pockets on the sides and corners; the d20 is pretty much impossible to get the 1 side flush with the other faces, and truthfully, I wouldn't worry about that as much as making sure there's no air pockets just underneath the opening. The d8, the d10, and the d12 almost always came out perfect. Another thing to keep in mind: there's only so much you can do to reduce bubbles. Mix slowly, pour carefully, and make sure every corner is filled adequately. I used a pipette to suck up some of the bigger bubbles, but microscopic bubbles seem to always be present without extra tools or a LOT of care, and no mould is going to fix that on its own. If you do want those crystal clear dice with no air bubbles, you probably need to invest in a pressure chamber, and maybe use a mould that uses sprues and a reservoir system instead, just to make sure there's some enough material to fill those spaces. But that's getting into advanced stuff, and if you're at that level, you're probably making your own moulds anyway. I found that, depending on the weather, it took about 24 hours for my resin to cure fully in these moulds, using the resin from the same company (Let's Resin Crystal Clear Epoxy Resin). I keep a little bit of the waste resin around in a container so I can get an idea of how close to cured they are without disturbing the dice. But typically, I start them in the morning and extract them the next afternoon (about 36 hours), and they're always fully cured. I hope these tips are helpful if you do try this out. It's a great product, and a very fun and satisfying hobby! Happy dicemaking everyone!!

This has to be the most difficult mould I’ve ever bought! Can’t get it done properly in either resin or eco pour,, cost a lot of money and then the shipping on top, no wonder I don’t see any YouTube influencers using this mould, total waste of money!!!

Great little mould. I am a novice still when it comes to resin but I have made 4 sets of dice and the first two weren't great but with some practice and a few tutorials I found online, my last 2 sets have been basically bubble free and easy to clean up. The blue ones are without any paint and the purple ones are painted and sealed (though I need to find a better seal then a 'brush on' sealer lol). I find this super easy to demould and I use the Let's Resin 2 part epoxy resin, upgraded formula. I found the longer working time just enough to get as few bubbles as possible. I found 2oz of resin perfect (1oz of both A and B for a total of 2oz) to fill each cavity (plus a touch of overfill), 'paint' lid and have some left over to keep aside in the disposible cups I use to mix my resin to keep track of how far it's cured. A few tips I found with this mould: 1) fill the cavities about half full then use a toothpick or tiny brush to push the resin into all the sides (especially important on the d3 and d8) 2) fill the rest of the way with a slight overfill (too much resin will give you bubbles and too little will leave gaps when it shrinks while curing) 4) 'paint' resin on the numbers on the lid 5) tap the mould on the table or with your fingers to help any bubbles come to the top. 5) wait a minute or two then pop any bubbles on the surface with a lighter. (Carefully!) 6) roll lid on slowly, start on one side and slowly work the lid down to flat 7) put something heavier on top (I use books) this mould is sturdier then it looks and can hold a bit more weight then I expected. (picture 3) If you plan to sell dice as a business I'd probably not use this mould and invest in something sturdier.But for a fun hobby activity, this is a fine introductory product.

Just used for the first time since buying and the middle of the mold sits to high making a box with a big hole in the bottom. £24 for a mold that's useless!!