CARTMAN 12V Car Battery Tester, 100-2000 CCA Load Tester Automotive Alternator Tester Digital Auto Battery Analyzer Charging Cranking System Tester for Car Truck Marine Motorcycle SUV Boat

I frequently test car batteries at our small dealership prior to charging them with a battery charger. I was looking for a cheap and easy method to quickly test battery charge levels and potential alternator issues. The schumacher battery charger I have has a test/charge meter but it is a complete joke. I've been using this little tester for a few days now and it works great. I've found it to be fairly accurate for a general reading. There is another unit similar to this one by Pulse Tech but I decided to jump on this one because of the lower price and I like that this one comes with high quality clamps. The others in this price range only have needle/pointy type receptacles that are less convenient when you need your hands to be free. I also don't like coiled type cords because I've had bad luck with them beginning to fray and lose connection. This tester doesn't tell you the percentage of the battery level as seen in the picture- only a low, mid and full. I'm assuming that low is ~25% middle is ~50% and full is ~75% charge and above. Thats my only gripe with it- the instructions dont tell you what the levels are and I'm assuming a charge of 72% for example would light up as "middle". The instructions are poorly written in "Engrish", they could be a little clearer. For alternator testing, I tested a Lexus SC400 with a brand new battery that was known to have a bad alternator. You rev the car up to 2000+ rpm and connect the clamps to your battery. The tester showed the alternator as faulty so I can confirm it works. I obviously wouldnt put my complete trust in this unit to diagnose everything since it's usually not as cut and dry, but it will lead you in the right direction. For the price, you can't go wrong. Build quality is decent and its no frills.

For about 2 years now, the ECO mode on my 2016 Mercedes E350 was not engaging. After looking around online, I thought it might have been the auxiliary battery in the trunk and tried replacing that, but to no avail. I started to have the feeling that my main battery may actually be the cause, and only because it shuttered a bit on a very cold morning a couple of months ago while trying to start the vehicle. I purchased this to be able to more accurately check the battery, thinking the cranking amps had declined over the years on a battery that was about 6 years old already. Sure enough, the battery showed to be bad. When started, the unit was able to show the alternator was charging just fine as well. I replaced the battery with a new one, and the ECO mode works perfectly now. Problem solved! Unit is very easy to use and self explanatory. Good way to see if your battery needs to be replaced or alternator not charging correctly.

Tested on two vehicles. Vehicle 1 - Alternator replaced in last year, battery within two years. Results = Good alt and Good batt Vehicle 2 - Alternator is original from 02, battery is brand new. Results = Bad alt and Good batt Take multi meter to vehicles. Test both vehicles while running. Vehicle 1 solid 14.8 with minimal fluctuation to .7 or .9. Vehicle 2 solid 15.3. So technically the device was correct and the alternator on vehicle 2 was a Fail. But, 15.3v on vehicle 2 is high but within acceptable parameters. This is a very very basic inexpensive tool for some very basic testing. I give 4 stars because for the price and size it may be worth it to throw into your tool box. But it is in no way a high quality diagnostic tool. Depending on your needs you may want to spend $10 more and get one that shows the actual voltage reading.

works well, I used for testing my old batteries and also new batteries, found out new batteries were defective and was able to replace them

I have a car where the battery isn't holding a charge when the car is off. It only has about 20K miles on it. I figured either the battery was bad or the alternator possibly has a short, so I got this thing. First the cable is barely long enough to reach the terminals on my car. My car has the battery in the back under the floorboards of the trunk. Under the hood there is a (+) terminal where you'd expect a battery to be and the (-) terminal about 10-12 inches away on the firewall. I had to tear the cable black/red down the middle to the base of the device to make it be able to reach. Then the clips were barely big enough to get on the terminals which aren't that big. With my car engine off the bottom most light (OK) was red and none of the low/mid/full charge lights were on. The minimal instructions are rather confusing. It seems this either means the battery is dead or able to be charged. I started the car and it had enough juice to start up without being jumped so it couldn't have been completely dead. Once the engine was on, the "OK" turned off and the "full" light turned on. So now my battery went from dead to full (which I know it wasn't cause the care barely started). For the alternator lights it flickered between good and fault before settling on fault. It says you should accelerate to 2000 rpm to do this check so I did that but got the same results. So if this is to be believed I need a new alternator and not battery. If it was the battery I could change it myself; alternator I'll have to bring it somewhere. Guess I'll see when I take it in what is actually wrong with it; not sure this really helped me figure that out.

Good

This is my 2nd Tester as I lost my 1st one, or can't remember where I put it, but I needed to test a battery on my sister's car and check to see if her alternator was charging as it should and when I found out I could not find it, I said to myself for what this little meter will do, I MUST reorder another. So glad that I now have another one and know exactly where I can find it !! Once you have and use one of these, you will save a lot of money to be able to test your own battery and current from your alternator. A MUST have !! Good Quality, also !!

I wanted a simple red indicator light for my daughter's car to indicate when her battery is low and not charging while driving (I added a lighter plug so her Cartman tester can be used inside the car while in motion). --- Here's the Bad News: Most people don't constantly watch their battery condition while driving and read all the fine print, so if you glance and see only the green "GOOD" LED on by itself, you might think there are no red lights, so things are good. Guess what, THINGS ARE NOT GOOD! The counterintuitive operation of this tester is that the LOW light turns OFF as the voltage gets critically low! (This is important because, as the voltage drops, most cars will shut down, typically between 12 and 11 volts; see the bench test results.) ---BENCH TEST RESULTS: I did a "bench test" to see above what voltage levels the various LEDs would light up. The answers are written on the white tape next to the respective indicators on the left-side tester in the attached photo. (Only the tester in the middle is connected for the photo.) 1) There is NO red warning light to catch your eye if your voltage is below 12.2 volts, as the LOW light is OFF below 12.2 volts and turns off if voltage drops below 12.2. (PHOTO NOTE: Notice there is no LOW red light even though the meter is only reading 10.22 volts). For example, you would get no warning after you start your car if it was not charging and your voltage was already critically low. But don't worry, lol, the little green GOOD light will remain happily on all by itself, even though your engine just died and you are on the shoulder of the expressway (been there, done that). 2) On the other end, the red ALTERNATOR FAULT light turns on prematurely at or about 14.7 volts. The majority of articles I have seen indicate that the alternator is faulted if the reading is ABOVE 14.7, say 14.8 volts or more. So, while driving normally, with a good alternator, this fault light was deceptive, flickering constantly, as the voltage was hovering right around 14.7 volts (and the tester is very accurate at turning on at exactly 14.7 volts). 3) There is one kind-of-good thing to say about this nearly-useless-to-me tester: I found the indicators on both units I purchased operated their LEDs consistently at identical voltages, so their quality control and/or accuracy is good; it's just that a couple of the voltage levels they designed to operate the LEDs at are misleading IMHO.

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Working so good

Bis jetzt, bei mir alle Testen mit Bravour bestanden . Einfach super Teil.

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This little gizmo tells you all you need to know about battery and charging. It is however really small and the clips are not big enough to grip battery posts . Perhaps pointed probes would be more suited to job?.