Industrial Clear - Rock Hard Epoxy Resin (48 oz)

If you're looking for a gel epoxy or one that sets quickly, this is not it. If you know that you're going to have 24 hours to have this set up, it's what you need. Very liquidy, very thin come a long working time. I used it to repair cracks on my outdoor deck boards, and I was happy to have the long working time, so that I could work it into all of the cracks well before it began to set up.

I wanted to like this epoxy, as it touts good specs and is made in the US, unlike many of the cheap epoxies from China which often stay quite soft even after "curing". But, this epoxy also did not get quite as hard as I expected, only maybe about 120% the hardness of the cheap Chinese epoxies. Also, this epoxy took longer than the cheap Chinese epoxies to reach full cure, although it did begin to thicken/gel about 45 minutes to an hour after initial mixing. The Chinese epoxies I have used typically begin congealing 2-6 hours after mixing, and are dry (not tacky) but still somewhat soft at 24 hours, and then they harden a bit more after a few more days, which I actually find ideal for the way I work.The only reason why I *would* buy this epoxy again is because I used it on my boat, and I did not want to shell out the big bucks for the West epoxy system...and so far I think this epoxy will do the job just fine. But if I was going to do anything else with it, I would buy the cheaper epoxy as I think it gets about 80-90% of the way there, especially if hardness is not a huge concern. As it is, I don't think the batch of this "rock hard" epoxy got as hard as the specs say it should have. With my shore D durometer, I measured epoxy that was cured for 4 days to be 76, and with the same durometer a polyethylene bucket measured 60. That said, I'm not sure if my durometer is totally accurate, hence the comparison to the bucket.

Had to use it to strengthen a rv floor. It poured in refillable caulking tube's great. Injected well. Can use 92% alcohol for cleanup.

I highly recommend this resin. It cures rock hard and I couldn’t see any bubbles once it was cured. I’ll be buying it again.

it is very clear, and no bubbles

Takes a lot longer to set than it stated but dries very hard.

Happy to leave a positive review. Industrial Clear dried hard as a rock. I was looking for a user-friendly ‘industrial’ product that would get this hard.

We found this all in all new kit to be the perfect size to complete our 6’x4’ wooden shop table project with a nice level thickness all around.We had tried some smaller quart kits in the past on wood tables and found that even though they say they will cover the square footage we wanted to, they just hardly coated the surface. If you’re using wood, it can get thirsty.This kit had enough to leave a solid layer of tough epoxy all around. Having worked with it, there are some basic prep ideas we’d like to pass on to help you succeed.If you’re using it on wood, or other porous surface, you want to mix up a small batch to coat it. This will fully seal the wood and any artifacts like pictures or other items you wish to preserve. At the same time it will create less bubbles in the end product.Once you’ve coated and sealed the surface, you want to take a beam level and make sure your project is level in all directions. Once you start your pour the epoxy will self level. So if it’s unlevel, you’ll get an extra thick layer in some spots and thinner in the high spots.You’ll also want to do this outdoors or in a well ventilated shop or garage. When mixing, you want to “fold” part A into part B to try not to introduce bubbles into the solution. So don’t whip it like you’re making an omelette. Nice and slow.Now that you’ve gone slow mixing,.. it’s time to move fast for the pour. The epoxy will set up at room temperature pretty quickly and it thickens fast as it does. For best results you can use gloves and Bondo scrapers to keep everything flowing where you want.Once you’ve got an even coating, you’re almost done. For best results they say you can use a torch or heat gun to get all the bubbles out. Even though the off gassing is relatively inert, we never felt comfortable using a torch, and didn’t want to over cure one section over the other,.. so we were more comfortable using a heat gun.It’s easier to use a handheld light and heat gun while you work across the surface keeping an eye out for bubbles. A few circles with the heat gun should see the bubbles rising to the surface and popping.Move quickly around the entire surface to get rid of bubbles, and you’ll have a professional looking job. The heat from this process helps to kick off the cure and watching the bubbles leave your epoxy, crystal clear is pretty darned satisfying too.For our project we just used making tape around the edges and corners. We removed it after 8 hours of curing and cut the excess with a knife while it was still a little soft.If you watch a few YouTube videos and follow all the prep steps, you should be good. We think this volume of epoxy is good for most home projects and if one project is all you’re doing, it’s at the right ratio to mix all at once.Just make sure to pour and spread quickly as leaving it in your mixing container will heat it up quickly, giving you less time to pour and spread.Level it and work quick. You can do it!We highly recommend this epoxy kit to the do it yourselfer out there. It was easy to mix, easy to use and a great way to make your own, beautiful epoxy pour project at home.