SWITCHDOCTOR Window Master Switch for 2003-2007 Honda Accord (35750-SDA-HO7) (Power, Control, Button)

well the problem was I have a 2 door coupe,the picture is for a 4 dr, however it dids say & still does this will fit your vehicle,well it did work to roll the drvrs side window back up,so its just the 4 dr model I should have caught it,now problem was no 2 dr was switch was aval,so I ordered on from CARID,IT WAS FOR A 2 DR,didnt work at all,it was $160 sent it back to get $140 back, have not got credited yet,now there is one here for 190-192 but its HONDA oem same # 35750 SDN-AI2,you have to look at the part # , some are SON OR SAN CANT REMEMBER but im pretty sure A1 2 MEANS 2 DR A1 4 AT THE END MEANS 2 DR OR 4 DR,ALSO EX,LX ARE DIFFERENT TRIM PKS,BUT THE 4 DR ONE WORKED ROLLED UP WINDOW JUST DONT FIT IN DOOR,ALSO IT 110 TO 150 MORE SHOULD OF KEPT IT BOUGHT A GOOD ROLL OF BLACK TAPE,TAPE IT TO DOOR ,I PRICED ONE TODAY AT AUTOZONE IT WAS $275 + TAX,so I guess I will buy the one for 190 here,hope it works,so I went to pick n pull to get a reg rim for a spare ,they had a few 2 dr 4 dr 2003 non had switch in them but found my same rim w shit tire on it,then see a 4dr 2004 ACCORD on my way out,go look theres a switch take it out,so it had diff. trim trim pc.from mine & its a 4 dr,so I get the rim & tire for $32,switch was $14, get home take off cover 4 switch w has 2 controls for remote mirrors unplug them,plug in $ 14 switch it works,got some cardboard ,black duct tape,set it in door tape it secure,you cant put cover back,so mirrors stay unremote 4 now,so anyway I made it work so I could roll my frigin windows,after buying 2 switches that were made for the amazon sent me a 4 dr,when I ordered 2 dr one,then carid sent a 2 dr that didn't work,no power noise ,but I know this switch is $40 & up,2 dr is $160 & up bought & returned both,so I buy the 2 dr one when this one breaks,what a pain,u have the 2 dr 4 dr this trim ex lx se,mirrors remote,i know what I need ,when I need it

It worked on my 06 honda accord lx. I had to remove the cover for the switches which was real easy, 4 tabs to pop it off. I watched a YouTube video on how to get the trim piece out. I had trouble getting the plug out of the old one. Make sure you know if your car is an lx or ex. I think there are compatibility issues if you don't know which model you have. UPDATE TO REVIEW: There are times when it takes several attempts to get the switch to work. I can definitely tell this is cheaply made compared to an OEM part.

Initially, the switch didn't work at all at which time I attempted to exchange the transmitter boards inside the switches and found out the connection pins inside the units didn't match or line up, so this wasn't a possibility. I contacted customer service, who to their credit were quick to respond. They were going to send me instructions to help program the unit but I never received them. I tried to contact then again, but they never responded. In the end I was able to get the switch to operate all of my windows, but could not program my key fob to operate the door locks. I thought I could possibly live with all of this but when I went to install the switch into the arm rest found out that the physical dimensions of the new switch were to large to allow the plastic faceplate to fit over the new switch, hence my title "why even bother to send the switch in the first place". I have to send it back. Photo shows new switch on the left, original on the right. High boarder ridges prevent face plate from fitting.

Purchased to replace the factory 2005 Accord LX driver's door controls because the other three Windows stopped working. My factory switch had some water damage and there was no other way to repair, except to replace it. However I was not going to pay three hundred bucks at Honda. This came in the mail next day, all I had to do was pry up the driver's door controls (gently), take out the 4 screws holding in the stock switch, disconnect the cable and place the new switch into the door panel testing it up and down before I buttoned it all back up. Please be advised you do have to resync your remote entry keys, as they are stored in the switch not in the car computer.This was very easy following basic online tutorials, cycling the ignition and pressing the lock button four separate times and then coding each key with the lock unlocked key cycle. This completely fixed my issues, hopefully it will help you on yours. I have seen reviews for one that was about $10 cheaper however the remote entry no longer works with those this one seems like a worthy upgrade for the additional cost.

Works good but there is a method to do this correctly if only replacing a busted switch, after you remove the original master switch, there is an OEM Omron switch held in place with a screw, it is very important you keep this as they are fairly expensive, also keep the original circuit board.Transfer those items into the new master switch panel carefully, after you do this you will need to reset the switch, this varies from car to car, you don't need a fancy scan tool to do this, plenty of you tube videos that will show you how etc...The aftermarket switch and circuit board that came with the replacement master switch do not work good, most aftermarket electronic car parts are not made well or last long, that is why it is important to retain the original switch/circuit board and just change the housing out from my experience or go to a junkyard and hope you get lucky.