Honda HN 08798-9010 MOLY PASTE (M77)

EDIT: This review was for the now discontinued "Moly-60 Paste" (in a tube for mini grease-guns). Somehow it got rolled into the "Assembly Lube" reviews here on Amazon. Most of this review is still worth reading though, especially if you have a shaft-drive motorcycle. Seems everyone has now switched-over to synthetic grease for suspension lube.For those who don't already know, your factory service manual recommends this stuff for a reason. This stuff is 60% molybdenum, and that's important. Because moly is an excellent lubricating metal, much better than graphite for high temperature and high pressure applications. Don't think of it as a grease, because it's really all about the moly. I've taken many old suspensions apart. What you find is that the grease is all dried up or washed out and all that remains behind is a dry grey flaky substance that wipes off. That's the moly. The grease carries the moly into the gaps, and then begins to dry up. The moly does the heavy lifting from there.I've been using this stuff since the late 1980's when I bought an 1987 CR-250. My 1998 Suzuki RMX-250 manual calls for 45% moly grease. While Suzuki makes a moly grease, it's in a tub. This is the only grease I know of that will easily fit into a mini-gun and inject through the zerk-fittings. I also use it on the kids various XR's. And if you have a shaft-drive, don't even think of using anything else. Google for the horror stories.Another reviewer pointed out that the tube is already small and comes half-full. This is true, which makes it frustratingly expensive. And not really for use in a full-size grease gun. Fortunately once you get it into where it needs to be, a little bit can go a long way. The waste comes from injecting it there. I can usually do every zerk on one rear suspension/swingarm in an already primed grease-gun. I keep an 18" hose on my mini-grease gun, and can say that in my experience if you have to prime the gun/hose, or you get an old bike which hasn't been greased in a decade, you might just plan on greasing it once now, ride it around, then grease it again very soon. And either one will take a little bit more than just 1 tube. BTW, it can also be helpful to inject through zerks and "work-it-in" before removing stubborn old swingarm bolts.Just FYI, google 'tar-baby'. This stuff can have a habit of getting everywhere. If you touch it then it'll get on you, then anything you touch and so on. If you unknowingly get it on your rag then use that rag on anything else (like a white plastic fender :( ) you'll wish you'd been more careful. The good news is that it'll come back off of most surfaces pretty easy (except that white plastic fender....dooh). But this is just what you want in your suspension. A little really does go a long way. So use it unless you don't mind replacing 30 dollar bolts and bunches of expensive collars all the time. This is the good stuff and I highly recommend it for older suspensions and shaft drive motorcycles. If it calls for it in the manual...use it.

This is good stuff for installing new brake pads. I only use Akebono brake pads and since they recommend moly paste for installation and since half the time they don’t seem to include the little sample size packet in the box, I ended up buying a tube of this Honda moly paste. After doing a little bit of research on it, I’m pretty certain it’s the exact product that Akebono uses and sometimes includes with their brake pads. The only small annoyance with this product is you will have to massage the tube back and forth some to mix the liquid in with the solid if it’s been sitting for a while. It’s kind of a pain with a new tube that is full because there isn’t a lot of room in the tube to work it back and forth massaging it while getting it to mix.

Expensive but worth it. Nothing like this stuff. Last a long time so it should last you a long time and multiple applications. Will buy again when this runs out several years from now.

Aluminum- and graphite-free grease is great for a variety of industrial work applications, including gunsmithing. This 3-oz tube contains enough grease to last most armorers many, many months. It spreads evenly and does a great job providing a solid union between parts. This grease has found wide use where aluminum meets steel, and where temperatures & pressures are very high. It has a significantly higher Moly content than other offerings, but it really excelled for me on a recent rifle build.The barrel nut on a rifle is notoriously difficult to torque on properly. The steel barrel (often parkerized), aluminum receiver (anodized), and the barrel nut itself (also typically anodized aluminum) are a pretty diverse union of metals. Getting the gas system to line up at 35 ft-lbs of torque often results in some skipping / grabbing of the nut, which can cause the gas port to mis-align, which requires you to back off and try again. And again. And again.With this grease, I was able to set my torque wrench, twist it on, and line up the gas port hole in one shot. No skipping, no grabbing, no hassles. I'll absolutely keep using this on future builds, and would recommend it to anyone who needs a sturdy grease with high Moly content.

As a former Honda technician from a dealership. I found this product to be the most amazing and effective product when doing a break job. Even though I no longer work as a technician for Honda I still use this product. I use this product on all vequals anything involving a break job. I choose to use this product over the common products provided by auto parts stores. I will even use this product on some motorcycle applications.

It's supposed to be the best. I used for final drive splines on my motorcycle.

Used this for the able to hub mating surface to get rid of the dreaded click. Has held up well.

Good stuff for my old Honda motorcycles