---
product_id: 48819825
title: "V4043H 1056 2 Port Zone Valve Normally Closed 22mm"
brand: "honeywell"
price: "¥30642"
currency: JPY
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 9
category: "Honeywell"
url: https://www.desertcart.jp/products/48819825-v4043h-1056-2-port-zone-valve-normally-closed-22mm
store_origin: JP
region: Japan
---

# quiet operation, low power replaceable powerhead w/o draining 2-port motorized control V4043H 1056 2 Port Zone Valve Normally Closed 22mm

**Brand:** honeywell
**Price:** ¥30642
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🔥 Upgrade your heating game with Honeywell’s silent powerhouse ⚙️

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** V4043H 1056 2 Port Zone Valve Normally Closed 22mm by honeywell
- **How much does it cost?** ¥30642 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.jp](https://www.desertcart.jp/products/48819825-v4043h-1056-2-port-zone-valve-normally-closed-22mm)

## Best For

- honeywell enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted honeywell brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Built to Last:** Durable brass and stainless steel construction withstands up to 8 bars pressure for reliable performance.
- • **Effortless Maintenance:** Replace the powerhead without draining your system—save time and avoid hassle.
- • **Precision Flow Control:** Motorized 2-port valve ensures seamless water flow management for your heating system.
- • **Smart Integration Ready:** Includes potential-free end switch for easy electrical control of pumps or boilers.
- • **Whisper-Quiet Efficiency:** Operates silently with minimal power consumption, perfect for modern homes and offices.

## Overview

The Honeywell V4043H 1056 is a premium 22mm 2-port motorized zone valve designed for precise water flow control in domestic and commercial heating systems. Featuring a replaceable powerhead that allows maintenance without system drainage, quiet operation with low power use, and robust brass and stainless steel build rated for up to 8 bars pressure, it ensures reliable, long-lasting performance. Its potential-free end switch enables seamless integration with pumps and boilers, making it a smart, efficient choice for modern heating management.

## Description

Product Description Motorised Zone Valve. The V4043H valve has been designed to control the flow of water in iron and copper pipe systems. Although specifically designed for small bore domestic central heating systems, the valve can be used in commercial and industrial applications. Box Contains 1 x V4043H1056/U Zone Valve

Review: 100% genuine part so lovely quality - Genuine Honeywell part was delivered within 24 hrs. They are worth paying for, the cheaper copies are a false economy, in my opinion. My central heating stopped working & the cause was the Honeywell valve for the central heating loop. It was probably as old as the house (~50 yrs), so can't complain - it's not had any parts replaced either! I looked into keeping the valve (the brass part) & just replacing the actuator (metal box), but it was such an old model, this didn't seem worth it. On the old models you can't replace the actuator without draining down the system, with the new ones (like this one) you can. So if you have an old one, I'd replace the whole thing if it dies. Apparently you can get apator kits to fit new actuators to old valves, but really don't waste your money, just replace both parts (with this part). The valve will get gummed up over time anyway, so it does need replacing from time to time. When I ordered, the complete unit was actually cheaper (by about 10%) than buying just the actuator & I fitted it myself, so it was a no-brainer for me to replace the entire unit. Look between the metal box & the brass valve, if you can see a thin layer of red, this is the sealing gasket - and means you have an old style unit - so order this part & replace the whole thing - the wiring, colour of the wires & action is identical. If you have previously replaced just the actuator becuase it has stopped working, becuase it had ground down its gears, this means the value is getting clogged up with gunk - so I'd say you need to replace both (using this part) - if you just replace the actuator again you're just wasting your money & causing yourself headaches. The gears are made of brass as a fail-safe so, if the valve action starts to seize, the gears will grind down, instead of the motor burning out, which could be a fire hazard. To fit this part, shut off the water to the C/H, drain enough water to allow you to remove the failed valve & replace it with this part. Make sure the arrow points in the same direction as the old one (away from the pump). If in doubt search youtube or call a c/h engineer. My top tip is - if you put a tub under the valve, then loosen one of the retaining nuts enough to cause it to dip, you can then tell if you have drained the system enough, cos the dripping will stop - it also allows water to drain out of that pipe quicker as it allows air in. Often you will not have to drain down too much, as the valves are near the top of the system.
Review: Not as difficult as I was expecting - This review isn't so much for the valve more about the process of swapping it over. We had a faulty valve swapped by an engineer a couple of years ago and paid over £100 for the privilege. But the new valve has started to make a knocking noise when going to closed position, closer inspection shows that the teeth on the gears are worn and in some cases broken. I didn't want to spend another £100 plus, so thought I'd have a go doing it myself. (I'm not convinced this engineer install a brand new valve, but that's another story). I watched a few Youtube videos and confirmed that this model does not require draining of the system so long as you're just replacing the "Powerhead", which is the silver metal box. This detaches from the brass pipe section really easily. I also waited for the weather to warm up a little, I didn't want to risk breaking the heating and having to wait for an engineer to arrive in freezing temperatures. Once you've swapped the powerhead, the 5 wires just need swapping over in the junction box. Fiddly but still easy. Just make sure you take lots of pictures and video before you disconnect anything. Oh, and switch off the electricity too, obviously! I used a meter to double check there was no power. My heating system and wires are a mess (inherited with the house), but it was still a fairly simple swap. 20 mins later I switched it all back on and tested. All working perfectly plus there's the bonus sense of satisfaction of a job well done!

## Features

- Motor Open/Spring Return Action
- Manual lever for filling & draining the system
- Powerhead replaceable without draining down
- Quiet operation, minimal power consumption
- Potential free end switch for electrical control of pump and/or boiler

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B001ANU6UA |
| Best Sellers Rank | 21,281 in DIY & Tools ( See Top 100 in DIY & Tools ) 151 in Central Heating System Accessories |
| Brand | Honeywell |
| Customer Reviews | 4.6 out of 5 stars 1,151 Reviews |
| Exterior Finish | Brass |
| Exterior finish | Brass |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 05023220400196 |
| Included Components | 22mm Zone Valve |
| Inlet Connection Size | 22 Millimeters |
| Inlet Connection Type | Cutting Ring |
| Inlet connection size | 22 Millimeters |
| Inlet connection type | Cutting Ring |
| Item Dimensions | 13 x 13 x 12 centimetres |
| Item Type Name | 22mm Zone Valve |
| Item Weight | 1 Kilograms |
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 13 x 13 x 12 centimetres |
| Manufacturer | Honeywell |
| Material | Stainless Steel |
| Maximum Pressure | 8 Bars |
| Model Number | V4043H1056 |
| Number of Items | 1 |
| Number of Packs | 1 |
| Number of Pieces | 1 |
| Number of Ports | 2 |
| Outlet Connection Size | 22 Millimeters |
| Outlet Connection Type | FIP |
| Part Number | V4043H1056 |
| Size | 22mm |
| Specification Met | CE |
| Thread Size | 22mm |
| Thread Type | BSP |
| Unit Count | 1.0 count |
| Valve Type | Zone Valve |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Honeywell
- **Exterior finish:** Brass
- **Inlet connection size:** 22 Millimeters
- **Inlet connection type:** Cutting Ring
- **Item dimensions L x W x H:** 13 x 13 x 12 centimetres
- **Material:** Stainless Steel
- **Maximum operating pressure:** 8 Bars
- **Number of ports:** 2
- **Outlet connection size:** 22 Millimeters
- **Outlet connection type:** FIP

## Images

![V4043H 1056 2 Port Zone Valve Normally Closed 22mm - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61z7gPHABKL.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: Are the motorised valves included inside the product**
A: Yes, it is a fully complete vale and actuator, should you need us a gain please contact us on 01302 279234.

**Q: Does anyone know how to wire this to a Hive thermostat receiver please?**
A: No idea. Mine wired to Honeywell 10 connector block.

**Q: is this 5-Wire Installation? does it come with 1 Year Guarantee?**
A: Yes sir this item has five wires and has 1 year gurantee.

**Q: Hi  Can you please confirm if this item is 100% the Honeywell brand?  Can the gold compression pipe in the pic be removed as we just need to replace t**
A: Yes, that is exactly what I did.  I ditched the brass valve, and just used the motor.  Here's a good tip.  When you are replacing the motor, do not disconnect the wires.  Instead, cut them so that you can see which colour wire goes to which terminal.  They use the same colour wires in the same order in the new unit.  Don't forget to turn off the power first!  There's  a very good video on YouTube, I think by dereton, that shows how to do it.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 100% genuine part so lovely quality
*by T***S on 7 November 2021*

Genuine Honeywell part was delivered within 24 hrs. They are worth paying for, the cheaper copies are a false economy, in my opinion. My central heating stopped working & the cause was the Honeywell valve for the central heating loop. It was probably as old as the house (~50 yrs), so can't complain - it's not had any parts replaced either! I looked into keeping the valve (the brass part) & just replacing the actuator (metal box), but it was such an old model, this didn't seem worth it. On the old models you can't replace the actuator without draining down the system, with the new ones (like this one) you can. So if you have an old one, I'd replace the whole thing if it dies. Apparently you can get apator kits to fit new actuators to old valves, but really don't waste your money, just replace both parts (with this part). The valve will get gummed up over time anyway, so it does need replacing from time to time. When I ordered, the complete unit was actually cheaper (by about 10%) than buying just the actuator & I fitted it myself, so it was a no-brainer for me to replace the entire unit. Look between the metal box & the brass valve, if you can see a thin layer of red, this is the sealing gasket - and means you have an old style unit - so order this part & replace the whole thing - the wiring, colour of the wires & action is identical. If you have previously replaced just the actuator becuase it has stopped working, becuase it had ground down its gears, this means the value is getting clogged up with gunk - so I'd say you need to replace both (using this part) - if you just replace the actuator again you're just wasting your money & causing yourself headaches. The gears are made of brass as a fail-safe so, if the valve action starts to seize, the gears will grind down, instead of the motor burning out, which could be a fire hazard. To fit this part, shut off the water to the C/H, drain enough water to allow you to remove the failed valve & replace it with this part. Make sure the arrow points in the same direction as the old one (away from the pump). If in doubt search youtube or call a c/h engineer. My top tip is - if you put a tub under the valve, then loosen one of the retaining nuts enough to cause it to dip, you can then tell if you have drained the system enough, cos the dripping will stop - it also allows water to drain out of that pipe quicker as it allows air in. Often you will not have to drain down too much, as the valves are near the top of the system.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Not as difficult as I was expecting
*by N***L on 24 February 2021*

This review isn't so much for the valve more about the process of swapping it over. We had a faulty valve swapped by an engineer a couple of years ago and paid over £100 for the privilege. But the new valve has started to make a knocking noise when going to closed position, closer inspection shows that the teeth on the gears are worn and in some cases broken. I didn't want to spend another £100 plus, so thought I'd have a go doing it myself. (I'm not convinced this engineer install a brand new valve, but that's another story). I watched a few Youtube videos and confirmed that this model does not require draining of the system so long as you're just replacing the "Powerhead", which is the silver metal box. This detaches from the brass pipe section really easily. I also waited for the weather to warm up a little, I didn't want to risk breaking the heating and having to wait for an engineer to arrive in freezing temperatures. Once you've swapped the powerhead, the 5 wires just need swapping over in the junction box. Fiddly but still easy. Just make sure you take lots of pictures and video before you disconnect anything. Oh, and switch off the electricity too, obviously! I used a meter to double check there was no power. My heating system and wires are a mess (inherited with the house), but it was still a fairly simple swap. 20 mins later I switched it all back on and tested. All working perfectly plus there's the bonus sense of satisfaction of a job well done!

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Perfect Zone Valve
*by C***O on 26 October 2021*

One evening, I tried to turn on the central heating which was working fine in the morning, nothing happened. No heating but I had got hot water. After further investigation, I noticed the motorized valve was not neither opening the valve nor the switch, but if I manually opened the valve, I would get the heating which confirmed the motor had packed up. I replaced with a similar motor, which worked for a few hours and then it stopped. So I decided to replace the whole valve head with genuine Honeywell motorized valve. I knew I only needed the valve head as the joint body was fine. I kept the the metal joint as spare. It was a straight forward replacement. Before any job with electricals, always switch off the power beforehand. The valve consisted of 5 wires. I disconnected and connected one at a time and took pictures of them so I would not get mix up. It take me 15 minutes and turned it on. Bingo, it was back to life and I didn't even have to hope it works because I knew I was using the genuine parts. So far so good and it was not that expensive. Well worth the money. A very good BUY.

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*Product available on Desertcart Japan*
*Store origin: JP*
*Last updated: 2026-09-06*