3A 15W DC 12V to 5V USB Female Buck Converter Adapter Step Down Charging Module，USB Female Head with Screw Hole can be Used for Panel Installation

I have a 12V off-grid solar system for my shed that has two solar panels, two 10 amp-hour 12V LiFePo4 batteries in parallel, and an MPPT charge controller. I wanted to add a Raspberry Pi 3b system for monitoring the shed's solar system. To do this, I needed a power supply that could provide a regulated 5V and at least 2.5A of current from a nominally 12V DC supply.This module fulfilled that requirement exactly. The Raspberry Pi is directly connected to one of the ports and it works perfectly. No complaints by the Pi about power and things have run smoothly for months with the module running cool to the touch. The module does not have any wasteful and distracting LEDs or other indicators.Connecting was simple: I crimped on some ring connectors to the bare input wires and connected them to my shed's fusebox, then used some screws to mount the module and the output ports where I wanted them. The output ports are standard four-pin female USB-A ports (that is, not USB 3.0) that will work to power virtually any standard USB device.There are two important things to note:1. The module is intended as a power supply, not a phone charger. I measured the voltage on the D+ line as 0.6V, and the voltage on the D- line was 0V. When I connected my iPhone 13 at ~50% charge, the phone charged but only at 500mA, the maximum allowed for a USB device that hasn't negotiated with the source for more power or isn't connected to a Dedicated Charging Port.It would have been really nice if the manufacturer had shorted the D+ and D- lines so the ports would appears as a USB Dedicated Charging Port that could supply up to 1.5A since this would allow phones and tablets to charge must faster, but it does not. Devices that don't care about negotiating for power using the USB protocols, such as the Raspberry Pi, a dashcam, or many other devices powered over USB ports, will all work just fine with this adapter, but phones won't charge faster than 500mA.2. The female USB output ports have the connector aligned such that the "up" direction of a connector (typically the side with the USB logo on the male plug) faces the wall, when they're mounted to the wall. This makes it annoying to use by USB power monitor since the screen on the monitor faces the wall. If they could flip the port so that "out" faces away from the wall, that'd be ideal. I admit this is a very minor issue and makes no difference when being used as a 5V power supply, but it is a little annoying.In short: if you need a power supply that can provide 5V at 3A on each of two ports from a 10-32V source, this will work great. If you want to use it to charge your phone or other USB-powered device that negotiates for more power than the standard 500mA, you can, but it will be quite slow since the module doesn't do any negotiation and isn't set up as a DCP.

I wanted to build a lightweight GO BAG solar recharger. So ECO-WORTHY 10W Solar Trickle Charger ---> this unit (3A 15W DC 12V to 5V USB Female Buck Converter) ---> 15000ma power bank. March 2024, 32n latitude, coastline, testing gave good results. Oh, pop the back cover off the solar panel wiring box, mount the converter over the solar box, expose solar tabs, solder converter wire to solar tabs, run USB wire back through solar box, pop the cover on the solar, painter's tape over solar LEDs, Gutter Guard - 2 coats - 72 hours between. Don't attach the power bank to (gettin hot) solar panel. Takes some getting use to but works. Fits in a backpack notebook pocket and is about 1/2" thick, 10" x 11". Just for fun, I also have a 1/4" x 10" x 11" aluminum plate & looking at a ballistic Nylon backing. The 15000ma power bank is about as heavy as practical and maybe think about pass through charging. Get one long USB cord & a USB LED.So I came back to something that works as I prep the Kawasaki for a spring run. Plan to do some camping.I'd like to have a LED and also charge my cell from the bikes' battery at night. I'll wire the converter (2 female 6a) ... somewhere ... i don't know. No solar.Good reliable product, great price (2/$14 for the single female).

Is and works as advertised!

I installed this USB port in my sister’s car in order to provide power to some LED under dash accent lights. (I tapped one of the car’s parking lights for power so that they only come on when the headlights are turned on.). It is best to add an in-line fuse to this USB port so that it has a dedicated fuse for whatever it is powering.

Powered a Raspberry Pi 5 for 3 hours through this using a 16.8 Lipo 3000 mahr battery pack. The single board computer ran for 3 hours with video running in the browser set to full screen at 1080P over the on board wireless. Barely warmed up this converter. The Pi runs pretty warm even with a case fan blowing which is also powered by the PI's GPIO, and this did not add much heat to the system. Color me pleased. Dropped a star. Seems it can't power a Pi 5 with a camera module attached. Tried 2 different cameras. All indications are power limits. I'm going to try a 5A USB module next.

Not sure how long it is made for sustained output. Used to charge 18650s from a car battery and it made it 8 hrs of 2 amp per "side". Has a warning of not to use continuous. Perhaps open and add heat sink if you wanted to push this lil fella.

I connected this module with the CB power cord connector in my semi and was able to hide the dashcam wires for a great look. No more wrapping wires around windshield to plug into dash!

Works fine