BELEY Electric Brake Bleeder Kit,110V Automatic Brake Brake Fluid Oil Exchanger Machine with 7 Metal Master Cylinder Bleeder Kit Compatible with All Vehicles.

I'm leaving a 5-star review because this kit works as advertised, had no leaks, is priced reasonably, and is relatively easy to use. There are a couple of things that could be improved. The directions could be more helpful with more detail (they really should just shoot a quick "how to" video. I had to refer to videos from sellers of other similar devices to make sure I was using it correctly). The tube length for the waste fluid receptacle bottle should be a bit longer, and they could have put some measurement lines on the containers just to give you a better idea of how much fluid is in there. But these are all very minor issues. My main concern was whether or not one of the various adapter caps for the master cylinder would fit my 2009 Acura TL, which it did. So that was a relief. But they might be better off including one of those universal adaptors that can be made to fit pretty much any car rather than include all of the different cap sizes. In any event, this is a good unit for the money and, as I said, works as advertised with no issues related to this unit.But, I do have a cautionary tale with respect to my brake bleeding experience in general that I feel the need to tell. I'm reasonably handy and no stranger to DIY projects. I researched what was involved in using one of these solo pressure bleed kits, saw all the steps, and saw nothing that I shouldn't be able to easily handle. Well, my actual experience proved to be quite the opposite: Everything, aside from using this unit, turned out to be a problem.In order to do this properly, of course, you have to take the wheels off. No problem -- usually -- except that this time I was only able to remove 19 out of my 20 lug nuts with no issues, save for the 20th that was stuck on so tight that it literally took me 3 days to get it loose (finally after resorting to using a torch). I only have 2 jack stands so have to do this one wheel at a time unless I want to spring for another set. Once I was able to get the first wheel off, I set up this kit, tested the system for leaks, found none, added the fluid, and the unit held its pressure perfectly.Mistake#1: Assuming my set of wrenches, included the 10mm size that I would need to open the bleeder valve. It's a full wrench set but it contained every size except the one I needed. There was no mention of the wrench size I would need to open the bleeder in my owner's manual, nor could I find that info online, so I wouldn't know that none of my wrenches would fit until I went to all the trouble of removing the tire. So, I had to stop what I was doing with this unit, put the tire back on and ordered the correct size bleeder wrench from Amazon. One day wasted. When the wrench arrived, I jacked up the car, took the tire off again and finally began bleeding the first wheel. You're supposed to bleed it until you see no more air bubbles, but that never happened. Even as clean fluid began to be visible in the tube, it all came with plenty of air bubbles which never dissipated. Never, not even a little. In the meantime the waste bottle was really filling up. I knew something had to be wrong, so stopped what I was doing and looked online for information about this problem. I found a Youtube video that explained that when this happens, it's almost always an issue right at the bleeder valve itself and has nothing to do with air still being in your brake line. Okay, so that makes sense but now I had no way of being sure I was getting all the air out. In any case, I proceeded to the next wheel.The bleeder valve on this wheel, however, was quite a bit more corroded -- the car is 16 years old, after all, and has been one of the best cars I've ever owned, with nearly zero repairs needed, but I live in a cold climate in an area that uses salt on the roads, so things get corroded. Well, this valve did not open so easily. In fact, instead of opening, it totally broke off! I expected fluid to go shooting out everywhere because it's under pressure but, to my surprise, none came out. Probably because the line is blocked somewhere with corrosion. In any case, the point is, I'm now going to have to replace the entire caliper. -- a job I'm going to leave to professionals.So, instead of saving a bit of money bleeding the brakes myself, I'm now going to have to spend a whole lot more money and have the whole caliper replaced and, while I'm at it, I should probably have the one on the other side replaced as well. There are bleeder valve repair kits available but I'm done with all of this. Lesson learned.So, consider what happened in my case and think carefully if this is really something you want to try yourself. If your car is old, you're likely to encounter similar issues. Garages do charge kind of a lot to bleed brakes or do a full fluid flush but, on the other hand, you might be better off just biting the bullet and having it done professionally. If you do still want to try doing it yourself though, this kit will do the job.

Was skeptical for the price. Decent quality. Held 17 psi perfectly. The toyota adapter fit and secured flawlessly on my 7th gen celica. The universal adapter worked excellent with my 7th gen civic. Had to use some zip ties to hold it down because the brackets weren't long enough to secure under the reservoir and weren't short enough to secure under the lip. Very happy.

I got this adaptor kit from BELEY to go with my F118 Electric Brake Bleeder from BELEY. The adaptors are aluminum and are good quality. The quick connect coupler connects easy and does not leak. Overall I am pretty satisfied with the kit. I do have some criticisms. I used this kit to exchange the fluid in a Lexus ES350. The adaptor that was listed for Lexus was adaptor #1 which was a screw on that did not fit the Lexus press-on cap reservoir. The adaptor that I needed to use was #6 for Toyota which had a "Clam Shell" to lock the adapter on the reservoir. The clam shell fit loosely and had to be held closed in order to keep it from popping off under pressure. I used ZipTies to keep the clam shell closed when bleeding and this solved the issue with the adapter blowing off. Aside from the comments, the kit worked as intended and I am happy with it.

TRY 1: I bought a manual VACUUM bleeder kit on amazon, which was a total loss. Could never tell if the line was bled, since air was being sucked in from under the nipple. No, grease didn't help, and wrapping in teflon means removing the nipple, which I was not prepared to do. Also, the supplied waste cup was a piss poor design, such that the cap would leak air even at single digit psi. Will never try that again. Try2: I spent way too much time researching which pressure bleeder to get. One would think suppliers would make it easy to identify what cap they are supplying. We all know "fits most" means "not gonna work for you!" Do they really not mind having units returned, and bad feedback left?So, REASON 1 I chose this unit. CLEAR PICS & DIMS of the caps. CHECK: Look and measure your brake reservoir cap. Is it twist-lock (three tabs lock as you turn it), or is it threaded, like a water bottle cap? Vehicle is 2010 Mazda CX-9 Grand Touring (Mazda forever). Couldn't find a seller that convinced me their cap would fit at a "normal" price. This seller, however, includes a universal cap (REASON 2). Got the unit, and was SO pleasantly surprised: The quality is great! All plastic parts are very thick. Even the plastic caps are hefty (I didn't need them). The biggest joy was the universal adapter, though. It's heavy, I think mostly steel construction. The tapered rubber plug is large and solid rubber. CAVEAT: The "L" shaped pieces slide along bar, and are not secured. I highly recommend doing so. Masking tape or rubber bands on the end of bar, or around both "L"s. The last thing you want, is to have one (both!) slide off and enter the black hole under your engine. Take care that the "L"s are snug against the neck of the filler. The lip on my vehicle's filler is small (1/8"?). Watch out too, that the adapter is rotated around the neck properly. The TWO "L"s are pulling up on THREE tabs of the neck, so watch that all is evened out. I did not fill the unit with brake fluid. Didn't feel like having to clean it after use. I did what someone, somewhere recommended (thank you!): Fill the vehicle reservoir, and just use the pump air pressure to force the fluid thru the lines. To not over-stress the filler lip, I only used about 5-8psi. Worked well! Just check that the level doesn't drop too far. I checked after every wheel. I've bled brakes for decades using other methods. This is "THE WAY" to do it. Great value, that makes a messy, frustrating job, so much less so. Only improvement I' ll make, is 3D printing a twist-lock cap that fits my car.

An excellent tool to add to your tool box, once I opened the box and familiarize myself with all the associated hardware, it was a breeze to use it and bleed my Honda accord brakes. This simplified the bleeding the brakes so much, I actually did a second bleeding of the system and even then, I was still done with process quickly.I would definitely recommend this tool for anyone bleeding their brakes, this will save you so much time.