Table Top Epoxy Resin Kit 2 Gallon (1 Gal Resin & 1 Gal Hardener Set)–Clear Coat for Table Top Art with Mixing Cups, Stir Sticks, Brushes, and Gloves, Hand Mix DIY Casting Supplies

This makes a great coating for a table or desktop. I would not use it in the kitchen or other areas where you may have high heat or hot pots/pans being placed on the surface. The table top in the picture above was done with a casting resin and this is NOT a casting resin. You CAN pour at about 1/4" increments to get to the total desired fill depth. I have done this on a tree limb with a lot of rot inside pouring 1/4" at a time and using a brush to help seal all the bug holes. It took perhaps 10 pours to get to depth and a good final sand and a flood coat to finish it to a smooth coat. Dont be afraid to sand between coats. 120 grit seems to work in the rougher stages and 360 to scuff for the final coats. This material is temperature sensitive. 75F is the ideal temp and 70F and less will cure much more slowly. 8-F and higher really accelerates the pour. One pour on a table top was done at 84F and it was nearly a disaster. 10oz in a cup started to get really warm and you have to watch this. Anything above the ideal temp and the material sets exponentially faster. Mix it well and get it on the surface. Cooler temps are much more forgiving but may take up to 2 days or more depending on the temperature. You will get air in the material when you mix it. I have not tried a vacuum chamber and it is not needed as the seal and flood coats are easy enough to pop the air bubbled with a torch. 2 or 3 passes waiting 15 or 20 min in between usually gets all the air bubbles but a few problem areas may develop. I usually try to get the seal coat done and solidly filled before the flood coat. This is a great coating resin and keep in mind it is not a casting resin. You can pour up to 1/4" layers at a time which is handy is you are embedding/layering different items in the resin. I wont go into mold making but do suggest a plastic sheet under the project to catch overflow. I do make a 2x2 perimeter around the mold in case the mold leaks. Just the plastic sheet is sufficient if you are seal or flood coating. The take away is mix well, watch your temp,watch your depth of pour, torch the air bubbles, scuff between coats, and practice. This is relatively inexpensive for the results you can get. This is my go to product for a coating resin.

I have purchased this brand a few times now. I’ve also purchased other brands. I ONLY do casting. I usually get the 1 gallon but decided to start getting the 2 gallon. I have not noticed a yellow tint to any of the bottles I have received. I do notice bubbles, but I don’t see any more than in other brands I’ve purchased. With this brand, I am able to take a little bit longer to do what I do than when I’ve used other brands....not sure why. I live in Texas where it’s always warm or hot- but because of medical reasons...my house temperature is *never* over 68 degrees. Never. I do mix in a slightly different manner than I’ve read how others do, and from what is suggested. I mix my resin epoxy in 10 ounce cups. I’ve used larger but I feel the 10 ounce or smaller cups work better, even if I have to use 3 or 4 cups for a larger project. I stir with a tongue depressor for 5 minutes, then I let it sit for 5-10 minutes. During that 5-10 minutes...I torch the bubbles, usually 3 times, sometimes just 2. Right before I go to pour- I torch it again. This is when I add colorant (mica and/or alcohol ink) and/or glitter - or other cool things. I lightly torch one more time and I do hold the torch about 6 inches above the cup so the cup doesn’t melt. When I start pouring...the resin is clear and there are hardly any bubbles. After pouring is done- IF there are any bubbles, I use an acupuncture needle to pop them. I very rarely use a torch once the resin is in the mold. I’ve ruined a few molds doing so, (when I first began casting) so I stopped. I check my molds every 30 minutes and if there are no bubbles or any dust dropping in, after 2 hours...I cover and let it cure. My items are usually hard within 8 hours. When I make my candle panels- I take it out of the mold then because it is hard enough that it doesn’t lose its shape, and nothing is ‘drippy’, and is pliable enough for me to put a curved shape to it. My husband and I made something that I use to shape my panels. My only “complaint” is this stuff smells like stinky feet. 😳 seriously, I double mask, I open windows and have fans going near where I work. My husband says I have a sensitive sense of smell because he can’t smell it...but you can never be too careful using resin epoxy. I like that the Hardener is like water and the resin is super thick...it helps me make sure I don’t use double of one, which I have done before. My experience with this particular brand is great. I’ve not had any negative issues. I feel like the price for a 2 gallon kit is worth it. I’ll post some photos in a few days of things I’ve made (I had to put everything away as we had our windows replaced).

Be very careful and due your research. Do not poor more then 1/4 inch thick pours with 6 hours between them. And faster and your defiantly in for some major work or throwing away your project. Keep your room at 75 degrees (plus 3 minus 1) do not let room change temperature quickly. Slow stir for a while making sure to mix very very well, do not use drill(it adds more bubbles) Example of good and bad pours. Good: Hard as a rock 6 to 8 hours after final pour. Bad: sticky tacky days after. Multiple pours with not enough curing time or lower room temperature, first pour 1/4" thick 6 hours later next pour 1/4" thick 4 hours later, 3rd pour 5/16" thick. Last pour will dry to quick causing middle pour to not dry at all, possible mixing of layers causing softer gel like to end up on top. Bad: 2 inch thick pour. Grab a fire extinguisher and hope nothing catches on fire. Final product will dry in 30 min to an hour instead of 24 hours. Will crack everywhere while drying. Imagine throwing molten glass in a freezer thats in an ice cube tray. The glass sticks to the tray and cracks as everything cools/shrinks.

I bought this 4 years ago according to amazon and last night i discovered that the bit i had remaining finally expired. Instead of a fluid, it was a gello consistency. I couldn't poor or mix it, so its time to order more. I use it to make various blanks for wood working. Bowl blanks, decorative tool handles. I cannot get a crystal clear look, for that I think i need a pressure pot. Heating the resin and hardener to around 80 or 85f might also help, my workshop is pretty cool which makes it more viscous and harder for micro bubbles to escape. But instead, I add a little mica powder to get bright colors that contrast nicely with the wood. I'll buy the 1 gallon kit this time since evidently the 2 gallon kit lasts me nearly half a decade.

The part B viscosity was greater than part A compared to some other products used -- this aspect increases the need, depending on the coverage area, to help the self-leveling/self-spreading aspect of the product. The product instructions are adequate and recommend no more additive than 5%. Depending on the desired look, this additive limit may not produce the desired results. The additive I used traveled with the epoxy during the self-leveling process producing a clearer result in some areas. Moving the mixture to try to maintain consistency may produce a different look from other areas that are left alone. The viscosity was suitable for my needs so that an thickener was not needed. Some bubbling was reduced using the recommended techniques.