Power1 V-Twin 20W-50 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil, 1 Quart, Pack of 6

Great stuff, The old bike is running great!

Love Castrol oil for all my vehicles

Item arrived on time and was as described. Good oil and does the job very well. Will use this product from mow on happy with this oil.

I'll be damned if I'm going to pay what Indian wants for their 20w40 oil for the Thunderstroke engine. 52,000 miles with this oil and it's been great. Oil changes at 5,000 miles as recommended for the OEM oil, and I never have to add oil in between. Blow by into the airbox is the same as the OEM oil. Cold starting is the same in the winter (mornings as low as 25F). I also ride in 120F-plus desert weather, which is hell-on-a-hotplate, but the bike handles it better than I do. I've even used an IR thermometer on the cylinder heads and seen no difference between OEM oil and this, with hundreds of readings taken at different times and ambient temperatures. Clutch and shifting action are unchanged between Castrol and OEM. I've also used Valvoline's V-twin oil though and noticed no difference, so this is certainly not a religion for me. It's mainly that Castrol as a good V-twin oil and a good high-zinc oild for my air-cooled VW Baja Bug, so I stick with them out of habit.

High quality lubricant, tested especially for Harley Davudson V twin engines.

Seems to be okay. Engine runs smoother etc. I have to use for awhile to fully test out. Ask me in six months. Oil: Castrol: Power RS V-Twin 4T 20-50 Full Synthetic: Story: Since purchasing used a year ago with about 13,500 miles I have only used the Kawasaki Red label 10-40 oil, of which the previous owner had used. With the cost of oil changes and recommended from others to try a synthetic oil. Doing research on the internet as I am a Pennzoil lover from years back, however I researched Castrol and decided that it appeared they had the best development and etc. of oils. I just a couple months ago put Castrol in my pickup. With very hot climate here in Arizona I thought that I needed the extra protection and going to a 20-50 as other riders in Arizona use. Following maintenance record. Oil start up and performance: After installation of the new Castrol oil and new KN filter. I started bike ran for a minute and shut down. I let it set for five minutes, then started again. It still rattled a bit louder then normal but left it run the more it ran the more quite it got. I left it run for about fifteen minutes and it really got smooth running and nothing rattling. Putting the VN 2000 in perspective: 2053 cc, 125 cu in, 116 hp. 103MM (better then 4 in diameter x about 5 in stroke piston) or 62.5 cu in per piston / or 62.5 / 61.03 cu in in a liter = 1.02 liter. 141 ft lb of torque @ 3000 rpm. Now lets compare to what we are used to: Most probably the most powerful muscle car of that era was the Dodge 440 magmum: 440 cu in or 7.2 liter, 375 hp @ 4600 rpm, 480 ft. torque @ 3200 rpm, with a: 4.32 inch piston with a 3.75 in stroke. Curb weight 3770 lbs. I figure my bike with the trailer hitch and other items wet weight maybe 900 lb. In perspective: 2 cylinders x 4= so: 125 cu in = 500 cu in, or 8.16 liter, 141 x4= 564 ft lb of torque, 116x4=464 hp. That is more torque then a lot of hyper charged Dodge Cummins pickups pulling big trailers. By weight you have a bike that is: 60 cu in larger, 84 ft. lb of more torque, 90 hp more then the Dodge charger with a 440 magnum. You should have the picture now. The most powerful street cruiser made. After a 2-3 days of riding brief short trips to the grocery store etc.. Test ride # 1: Oil Cruising south on Higley to the 60 right turn, about 15 mph, pour it on a slight bark then smooth, gear two, shifter slides in smooth as silk. Give her more gear three, didn't even feel it shift, gear four no click it just went there, gear five the same, trottle full the engine just kept going, running so smooth unbelievable, what the heck I didn't know this had a automatic transmission. At the end of the ramp I looked down I was going 117 mph. Tire review to follow later. After going maybe 8 miles west on the 60 at varying speeds. I turned off the 60. Up to the stop sign I let her settle down and every time now. Back completely off the throttle and she just sits there a very slow rpm guessing about 200 rpm (there is no tachometer) less then with other oil. Those big four inch pistons just sit there thump, thump, thump, green light, very little to the throttle 5 seconds of good barks and she smooths right out with a steady easy rumble. I pull up to stop sign and a loud sounding Harley is in the lane next to me, and the rider wonders what that thump, thump, thump is! I am guessing he thinks I am going to blow him away with sound after the green light. Sorry only five seconds. Analysis: I am guessing that the ECU is sending a signal that there is less power is needed because everything is running so smoothly because of the oil. Now because of going to the 20-50 weight I will purposely just let it idle longer on start up to make sure that I have good oil circulation and coating before I take off. The shifting (same oil works in the transmission) is so smooth, I don't hear one click and very little pressure.

Replaced the motor and transmission oil on my 1996 Harley-Davidson with this product before taking a 4 day road trip. Bike ran great, no leaks, rechecked oil after the trip and it looks great.

I'm an idiot, but this is a fine product. When this arrived, I was happy as could be. Moving swiftly after I got home, I cracked open the box while the blackened life's blood of my 2008 BMW R1200RT seeped into a box of sorbents. Trying to find an oil of the kind mentioned in the owner's manual had been challenging, but Amazon delivered exactly what I asked to my doorstep. Draining the old oil went so smooth you'd think I knew what I was doing. When time came to add the new stuff, I buttoned up the bottom and installed my Awesome Oil Filter . Now, the manual had mentioned how much oil to add. About 4 Liters or 4 bottles and a tiny bit of spare change. I meticulously used the little sight glass at the bottom of the motor. So far, so good. I was patting myself on the back way too soon. Did you know there's a thermostat on the oil cooler? I didn't. My victory lap was starting up the bike to make sure the oil level didn't change. It was perfect until it shot up over the top of the sight glass. The oil cooler doesn't let it's oil go until the appointed temperature is met. I was left with a little bit of a quandary. With the convoluted innards of my BMW, I couldn't even see oil from the cylinder head to suck out. So I get this great idea. I'll just crack open the oil nut a little bit, let it drain back to acceptable levels and close the screw. Two minutes later I'm cussing as hot oil washes over my bare hands and my oil catchment box is going from 'just right' to 'gonna mess up your garage'. Turns out it goes from painfully slow drips to an unstoppable torrent in like a quarter turn. In desperation, I tried to block the hole while I fished for the screw. Imagine with me, please. I just burnt my fingers with the initial gush and what do I do? Reach my hand into a box of hot oil. The sweet honey-gold Castrol synthetic oil was gone. There wasn't anything wrong with the oil. The problem was between the floor and the motorcycle (me). Happy riding. The burns were minor to my hands, but more severe to my pride.

Harley twin cam 88 seems to like it runs quieter, I think so anyway, like Castrol oil but hate the foil seal on bottle,my advice is to use a funnel with screen! you don’t won’t any mishaps with foil in oil tank.

as expected, box of jugs of oil