FamoWood5050110 Glaze Coat Kit - Gallon Clear

Use for sealing and protecting hand crafted table tops. Placed on raw hardwoods to provide a protective surface. Does a marvelous job.

I have clear coated so many things. Oh you don't even know. If the cat would stay still for about 8 hours, we would have a turtle. Oh, and I coated a turtle too, at least an old shell we found anyway and it looks super shiny! I keep waiting for a knock on the door to see a naked turtle wanting that thing back now, but that would be gross! I have coated over 100 sq ft of bar tops, desk tops, table tops and turtle tops. Have small things ready to coat if you do a big project so you can use the leftovers to coat rocks, pepsi cans, C3PO, slow reptiles, you name it and you can make it super shiny forever. Don't throw the empty bottles out. Cut them open, mix what is left and you can do key chains, hammers, engraved wood projects, house keys (Got yelled at for that but they were super shiny!) It is so easy. MIx equal parts in one container slowly for 6 minutes. Pour in another container and mix for 6 minutes. Spread that out on your projects and run a propane torch over the top to remove the bubbles. Be careful because the runoff soaks through cardboard, bedroom sheets, tile and dog fur really nicely. Will buy again as soon as my wife forgets about a few misteps because I have learned so much. I am on my fourth box now. (*No turtles were harmed during the use of this product)

I think this the 4th or fifth time I've order this.Looks great.

I have mixed feelings about this product, but much more positive than negative. Here's why: I used Glaze Coat on an 18" x 84" unfinished, "live edge" piece of juniper that will be a bar-height counter in my newly-remodeled kitchen. The finished product looks beautiful, even though it has a few (very few) minor flaws that, frankly, only I will likely notice, but that could have been avoided if I knew the following advice.First, the manufacturer rightly recommends to try a test piece to get the feel of working with the coating, and I STRONGLY recommend that as well. However, my test piece was only 12" x 12", and I wound up having issues with the finish piece that did not appear on the test piece.What I'd do differently knowing what I now know: Instructions recommend that, if using on a porous surface, especially unfinished wood, to first apply a thin skim coat, as it will help to seal some of the porous holes and lead to fewer bubbles. I did that, but after my next full-thickness coat, I had a HUGE number of bubbles, and some did not pop, even after following the heat gun method detailed. Some of the porous spots that must've been pretty deep and not sealed with the skim coat, and, with a lot of air in them, would bubble up, then pop from the heat, but another bubble would pop up again from the same spot. That continued until the coating thickened to the point where the bubbles could no longer pop, and a second coat (and, eventually, third coat) was required. Quite a few bubbles came up from the more grainy areas of the wood. By looking at the surface, it seemed nonporous, but they were there. I called the manufacturer's help line, and received a return call from a helpful lady who told me how to remedy this problem (more on that in a moment).I also viewed the "How To" videos from a competitor's product, and it recommended applying THREE separate skim coats to unfinished wood to seal the porous surface and prevent bubbles. While it may be a PITA to wait the 4-5 hours between skim coats, you WILL ultimately save time and effort by minimizing all that bubbling. I wish the Glaze Coat manufacturer would test that process and include that recommendation in their instructions.When applying the skim coat, a flat-edge trowel works fine. For the finish coat, I used a 1/8" triangular notched plastic trowel that is labeled as a "mastic/glue spreader", and it worked perfectly....costs just over a buck at the big box stores. Do NOT keep working the glaze coat. Spread it and let it level itself. Too much handling of it will cause it to lose its ability to self-level.For each pour, I used two Solo cups and two 64 oz plastic beverage jugs that I bought at Dollar Tree for (surprise) a dollar each. They also sell a set of four plastic mixing spoons that worked well, and I used sponge brushes for the edges. Follow the mixing instructions PRECISELY! I poured the exact amount of Parts A and B into the solo cups, poured Part A FIRST into the jug, then pour Part B INTO Part A in the jug. For some reason, this makes a difference. Stir by hand for 6 minutes, then pour the mix into the second jug, and hand stir for 6 more minutes...NO LESS, NO MORE. Do NOT use a drill mixer or you will get bubbles like crazy. Have everything you need nearby, because, here in dry, warm New Mexico, I had 10 minutes MAX to pour and spread until the mix begins to harden and becomes unusable. I was able to coat the entire piece in one pour, but have the spreader ready at hand and don't dilly dally. The reaction of the mix produces heat, and you can actually see a smokey reaction after (in my case) 10 or so minutes. Do NOT try to use the coating after the smoke appears (along with a stronger odor), as it will not spread and will ruin your pour.Immediately after the pour, I quickly spread and "chopped" the edges...maybe "schmeared" is the right word?...to avoid any dripping look. Because it's a live edge, there were parts with bark still on the wood (remove looser pieces). Both the raw wood and the bark portions of the edge look REALLY great. Finish those edges quickly, then move on to the heat gun or torch to pop the bubbles. Take care to not get too close and to keep the heat gun moving, or you will scorch the finish and need to pour another coat.About the Help Line from the manufacturer: I spoke with a very helpful lady twice. The problem I have is that you will likely get an answering machine, and get called back (in my case) the next day. There are some pour problems that can be rectified if addressed within THREE TO FOUR HOURS of the pour. But if you can't get through on an almost immediate basis, any prospective solution is no longer available to you. While I understand that immediate LIVE help is more costly and inconvenient, given the nature of the product and its cure time, it would be a great improvement.IF the Instructions included a better (three skim coat) method to prevent bubbles, and IF the Help Line was available "Live", I would have given Glaze Coat a 5 star rating.

I use it for craft projects and have been using for years