HH-66 Vinyl Cement, 4 oz. can - Vinyl Adhesive, Cement Glue, Inflatables, Waterproof, High Strength, RH Adhesives

This is something that if you make any vinyl repairs to your pool is a must. It behaves a lot like PVC cement but it's not the same thing. I have noticed that many big box places will not have this on the shelf.Best way to use it is clean the area you are applying the patch, pre-cut the patch and then apply the glue liberally to one side of the patch. Don't put the glue on the liner. You can apply this underwater if you want. Do this before the sun hits the area to be patched, before the sun gets it hot or after the sun goes down. If you apply it to a patch and the surface is really hot, you will get poor results.One trick I've discovered this year is how to apply it better. I take a regular old dinner plate, lay the pre-cut patch on it flat and coat it with the glue. This works very well at getting an even coat and the patch doesn't stick or get dirty. And, you have a firm flat surface to apply the glue brush. The last thing you want to have happen is to hold the patch in your hand, try to coat it with this glue and drop it on the ground. You've ruined your patch and used up some glue.Once applying it, it depends on where you're putting it, but if above the waterline, I like to put a clamp over it for a while to make sure it sets the way I want it. Or you can sometimes hold a board or something rigid behind it to press it firmly. When it sets, it's not going anywhere.If it's under the waterline, some people fold it over until they're right at the spot to put the patch. You can put this underwater.Above or below, the real secret to getting a good adhesion is taking a plastic spatula and smoothing it out to get the air bubbles out.If you have a pool that has an inflatable ring that a cat or other animal has clawed, this will patch it but it's really not worth the time to try to do and come back later to see if it'll hold air. this is more designed to hold water back than it is to hold air in. I let it cure for a 24 hour period, came back with soapy water in a squirt bottle to test it. Some patches held and others had one leak making it very difficult try a second time. I finally decided to go another route.The best way to fix that is cut a slit(s) on the outer part of the ring away from the waterline just big enough for an empty two-liter soda bottle (with cap on) to slip in. You may want to make around four slits around the pool and insert these empty soda bottles. You want to pack them in but not so tight that it stretches the ring. If you stretch it taut, the sun will crack the vinyl. After getting the soda bottles the way you want, cutting a strip of a vinyl patch and using this glue will solve your problem. I've never had any problem with this method and it holds up the pool, keeping the water in. You can add the noodles inside with the soda bottles and it'll work just fine. The sun will not degrade either inside the ring. The sun will degrade a noodle left in the pool but not the plastic soda bottle.One can is likely going to be enough to last you for your needs. But, like PVC cement, don't expect the unused portion to still be liquid the next season. So, use it liberally. This is the best type of glue for vinyl pool patches that I've found. Now that you have the best glue, pair that with quality patches. Cheaper, thin patches will pucker up with this glue and you will get poor results.One thought on the patches, pre-make your patches so that you can apply them one right after the other. Match it to the hole and make it bigger. You can center the patch area on the liner and mark it very lightly with a felt marker, just enough so that you know where it goes. When you make your patches, always make them rounded. Don't make corners that can catch on something. The goal is to get the glue on the patch and vinyl liner but not coating the patch with glue on the edges outside the patch.To clean the vinyl liner, soapy water will work followed by rubbing alcohol or just rubbing alcohol. Any stronger chemical I would would do a test patch as it could dissolve the patch or liner. If it starts to get gummy, you don't want to apply that cleaner on either the patch or liner.

If you’re looking for a vinyl cement that actually works, HH66 is the one you need. This product stands head and shoulders above the rest. Worth every penny!First off, it delivers a super clean fix. Unlike other products that leave unsightly residue or don’t bond properly, HH66 adheres quickly and smoothly. My vinyl repair looks as good as new—no lumps, no mess, just a solid, reliable seal. The application is easy, and it dries fast, which is always a win in my book.I had some tough tears to fix, and this cement came through like a champ. The bond is strong. I will update the review with the test of time feedback.The photos speak for themselves—check out the smooth, seamless finish! If you’re tired of struggling with inferior vinyl glues, HH66 will save you time and frustration. Totally worth the investment.

Used for adding extra D-rings to inflatable paddle boards. Patch kit that came with all the paddle boards we have came with HH-66, so we thought this would work. Good glue and seems to work well for the purpose I bought for. Cleaning the area well and following patching instruction is pretty important for the job like this.

The front header was becoming separated on my 1966 corvette convertible top. Used the HH-66 and some spring clamps to easily fix.

Used this to repair a large tear in a vinyl swimming pool , it worked perfectly !

Great glue

This glue was awesome, I used it under water and it worked perfectly for repairing a leak in my pool under water.

So I have to patch a wet slide and knew this size would be more than enough for the year however… this can was literally half empty!!! I can’t even finish my project. Why is it half empty. Two ounces. I am furious!