Victuals: An Appalachian Journey, with Recipes

Oh the memories of childhood this book brings up! My mother grew up in the foothills of Appalachia in southeastern OH, and I spent many a weekend back home on the family farm. My grandfather was a forager and naturalist, and as a child I followed along after him seeking ramps and morels (I still know of a secret morel patch I've never shared with anyone there.)Reading these recipes takes me back along the years, from fried cornmeal mush to spiced pickled peaches (which were a holiday specialty), to my mom's kitchen and my grandfather's woodswalks. Such a treasure to read and own.

Here's a rock-solid example of that oft-overused phrase, An Instant Classic. The inspired Ms. Lundy grew up on this food, obviously still adores it, and brings a level of respect to the table here not often found in discussions of such cuisine. Like many other "poor foods," this cooking may spring from communities full of cooks lacking funds for "gourmet" ingredients, but it's full of imagination, heart and love. A preacher who drops in visiting unexpectedly around suppertime will never mean anyone leaves a country table with an empty belly. These cooks are past masters at making a delicious much from a precious little. And, finally, here's a book that can show a reader how to fix that fondly-remembered cornbread your grandma baked, so good for sopping up pot likker from her garden vegetables. Ms. Lundy's text here is a marvelous combination of forthright recipes, glowing memories of her own Kentucky childhood, and reminiscences gleaned from other Appalachian folk in her extensive travels through the mountains, tales still aglow with times long past. Asheville photographer Johnny Autry contributes wonderful shots, ranging from a gentle hillside basking in the sun, to spoonsful of chow-chow, that cabbage-and-pepper relish crowning many a bowl of soup beans. Whether you're an Appalachian native, still resident there or strayed, or someone never south of our Nation's Capital, this book holds plenty to intrigue, charm, and captivate you. Thanks, Ms. Lundy! And happy eatin', y'all!

If you or anyone in your family history has even one toe planted in Appalachia, you will appreciate this book. The author is a storyteller: she weaves the region's culinary history into the complex relationships between Blacks, Whites, the Scots, the Irish, Native American Cherokees, and landowners and developers. Even the Swiss make a cameo appearance. As for the food, it's a fun read: one needs to know how to pronounce "victuals," and how to kill lettuce, make sallet, poke, sochan, pot likker, and a mess of greens. Each of the heirloom recipes comes with a story: Miner's Goulash, Leather Britches, Ginger Bean Chow Chow, Pickled Baloney, Candy Roaster (Cushaw) Pie, Sweet Potato Sonker with Milk Dip and, of course, cornbread. This book is unique: it's not NYC fare, it's not "celebrity chef" fare, it's not just "Southern" fare, it's unusual and delightful. Although I live far away from Appalachia, I found it to be a great read. No wonder it won a James Beard award! E-book critique: clickable index, clickable embedded recipes. Non-clickable TOC. Almost all of the recipes have photos--although the photos may be of the tree upon which an ingredient grows, rather than the completed dish.

The GistWhat the cookbook is: A genuine, unpretentious journey through Appalachia by way of its history, food, and people.What the cookbook is not: A book only of traditional, old-fashioned recipes.Who this book is best suited for: A home cook who enjoys reading about and trying food (some traditional, some not) from different American regions.Three words to sum it up: A sincere homage.The ReviewRight off the bat, Ronni Lundy takes us on a journey through the Mountain South in her part travelogue, part cookbook. The book cover is lined with a hand-drawn road map. After thumbing through pages of journalistic style photos by Johnny Autry, Lundy invites us to join her on her road trip over passes and down hollers, riding shotgun with the promise of Nabs in the glove compartment.Though Lundy's writing sways between anthropological and autobiographical, she manages to do it well. Every chapter opens with a vignette about a traditional Appalachian food history (chapters include apples, sorghum, corn, beans, and preserving among others) and it shines a spotlight on the generations of people, then and now, who work(ed) to keep regional traditions alive. I use the word 'alive' loosely here.When speaking about Appalachian food culture's viability in her introduction, Lundy points out, "By the time a group of us assembled...in 2008 for an eleven-day celebration and seminar on southern Appalchian foodways, I knew we weren't talking about a dying anything."Lundy writes about the challenges Appalachian folks face, like living with the horrific effects of mountain top removal, and the triumphs, like grown children and grandchildren revitalizing and re-visioning multi-generational salt mines and U-pick orchards.Throughout, there's also a beautiful dance between traditional and non-traditional: stories of a gristmill powered by a waterwheel the good old fashioned way. And salt evaporated using solar panels rather than black kettles over fire. Recipes for greasy beans strung on a string. And banana pudding layered with miso banana bread. Whether old or new, food, one of life's greatest pleasures, and its history anchors every chapter. And she reminds us that the very best pleasures take time.Speaking of, I couldn't resist testing The Shack's Sweet and Savory Banana Pudding. At times, this recipe felt like it had moving parts because there were many different stages, time being a primary ingredient; it took 24 hours when all was said and done. There was the making and setting of the homemade vanilla pudding (4ish hours), the making and cooling of the miso banana bread (2ish hours), and the final setting of the pudding (overnight). Was it worth it? Beyond a shadow of a doubt. It was, I don't say this often because I am a banana pudding connoisseur, in the top-5 best banana puddings I've ever eaten. It still had the familiar marriage of Nilla wafers softened slightly under sliced bananas and homemade vanilla pudding but with a umami surprise folded in for good (really good) measure.That's one of many recipes that beckon to be made: Pickled Baloney and Banana Peppers, Chili Buns and Slaw Dogs, Kale Potato Pancakes, Apple Stack Cake are among others I can't wait to try.Because it's not all 'old fashioned' recipes and since there is more prose than recipes, I can understand why an Appalachian food-purist might be a little critical of this cookbook style. But there in lies Lundy's point. She writes to portray a culture outside of stereotypes and expectations, and Autry does the same in his photographs. There is something for everyone; the old-timer , the newlyweds, the city-folk, the people from "up home"...you get my drift.

I thoroughly enjoyed this book. As one who grew up in Appalachia, I was immediately drawn to the title. It is so much more than a collection of recipes, though many recipes are included. The narrative and descriptions of the foods and the food origins are fascinating. The people we meet in the book who are involved in the preservation of traditional Appalachian food sources and preparation bring the book to life.

Very interesting