GE All Purpose Silicone Caulk for Window & Door, Clear, 10.1 fl oz Cartridge, 1 Pack - 100% Waterproof Silicone Sealant, Strong Adhesion, Freeze & Sun Proof

I make silicone molds for resin casting used in my artistic projects or prototyping (poor man's 3d printer). With the expense of "mold-making" silicone reaching the stratosphere, I have experimented with construction-grade silicone and find most construction brands to work equally well as the expensive silicone. This product is the lowest priced, 100% silicone I could find on Amazon and creates a superior quality mold. In order to make it workable like clay (instead of the sticky mess it comes as) get a large mixing bowl and add about a quarter cup of unscented dish soap to about a gallon of water, then one full tube of this caulk. Start kneading the mixture and the dish soap will rapidly cure the silicone in just a few minutes. Pull it out when it's at the cure-state you are looking for, and push whatever object you're trying to clone into the semi-cured silicone. Then air dry the rest of the way until fully cured. You can use some inert filler if you're trying to stretch the batch by curing the silicone a little less in the soap-water and mixing in something like corn starch. This obviously affects the temperature tolerance of the mold and tampers other physics properties of the silicone, but that may be ok for your purposes (e.g. you're casting glass tiles, wall outlet covers, or something that doesn't generate massive heat). I've added corn starch a couple times and wound up with a mold that still worked well. Great stuff on the cheap!

The manufacturer says not to use in aquarium. The product itself says do not use in aquarium. The flowing is my case. Yours may vary. With that out of the way, I used it to reseal a 10 gallon aquarium. It was either that or throw it away, so I decided to try. smells super strong. Cover your face with something and ventilate the area. In less than an hour the smell want an issue, but it smelled a little bit still. it seals perfectly. Wait 24 hours minimum to use the aquarium after sealed. After waiting, I rinsed with warm water, not hot, just slightly warm. A couple of rinses NOTE: after a while, several weeks, the only difference I notice is that it is not as clear as the original seal of the aquarium, but not by much. My 10 gallon is being used to raise fish fry and it has been as good as a new one. Only that silicone is semi-clear underwater, but nothing that bothers me. I will buy more to repair or even make DIY ideas for aquarium.

Good stuff for a good price, I probably should have ordered more. This stuff and a clean surface will seal things well. I repaired a crack in the top of a fiberglass truck canopy and it held up for years. Works well for greenhouse panels, list goes on. Pretty durable if you take the time to clean the surfaces.

The thing busted on me while trying to use it. The bottom cracked in. I got the stuff all over my hands and gadget. I'm glad I had a towel nearby to wipe it up.

-effective -dries in less than 10 hours -scentless when dry -dries as a light/cloudy white...not a bright white or bathroom-tile white. I used this to caulk in between the gap of my door molding and floor by the front door. It is effective in limiting bug access into my house, which is the reason behind the caulking in the first place. This definitely has a STRONG smell when wet, but is scentless when dry. The "color" is a cloudy white color...almost like a "foggy clear" color. CAUTION to new users: After you "snip" the lid of the bottle, you must stick a long, thin rod down the nose of the tube to pop the can so the caulk can come out. Also, this must be used with a caulking gun..can't be used on it's own as a tube of glue. I know that is standard for caulking, but as a first-time caulker those are things I had to research myself. haha

Product works as advertised or better. Here's my best tip: Don't get this stuff on your hands or you'll be sorry. I've been a home owner / handyman for over 50 years and have worked in the automative field. I have also manufactured inks and coatings. I admit i'm a bit messy at times and rely on the usual cleanup solvents including lacquer thinner and acetone. (even tried butter and baking soda on this to no avail) But this stuff is in a different category and does not come off your hands without a real struggle - perhaps that's why it works so well as intended.

A month or two ago I VERY carefully took all the trim off of the windows inside my house and caulked all the "gaps." It took about 2 days, but the chill around my windows is all gone. This stuff is awesome and dried very solid within 1 day. You can't even tell I did anything, but my heating bill this winter will be able to tell. I have no idea why the window installers don't do this when the first put the windows in. There were seriously only 2 beads of calking holding my windows in place on each side of the window. No wonder it was leaky and felt cold! I just had them installed about 6 years ago too, so not that old. If you feel a draft near a window, I would think about having a DIY weekend.

My tube was 8 months expired with a "use by 06/2022" stamped on it. There were dried chucks inside that kept clogging the flow, made for a REAL MESSY application. Bright side, it was really cheap!! Got the job done for me, for what I wanted to spend.

Ok

The silicon was completly dried up. Very bad. Utter Waste of money.