🚘 Shield Your Ride in Style!
The VViViD3M Clear Paint Protection Vinyl Film is a high-quality, virtually invisible 8mil thick polyurethane film designed to protect your vehicle's paint from chips, scratches, and road debris. With its adhesive backing, it ensures easy installation while keeping your car looking newer for longer.
Brand | VViViD |
Size | 6" x 12" |
Color | Clear |
Item Thickness | 0.01 Inches |
Vehicle Service Type | Car |
Manufacturer | 3M |
Item Weight | 0.634 ounces |
Package Dimensions | 6.06 x 1.5 x 1.22 inches |
Item model number | 3Mclrpntprtct6xsamp |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Manufacturer Part Number | 3Mclrpntprtct6xsamp |
G**O
Good
Good
V**A
Seems to work
Bought these to use on my goalie pads for better sliding. They seem to be working well in keeping the ice from building up.
E**B
Applied perfectly to my SUP... VERY EASY to work with!!!!! SO HAPPY!!!!!!!!
I'll start by saying I have failed more than once at window tinting a car. I'm a do-it-yourselfer that can do almost anything as long as it isn't one of those things that require require artist-like skills.Sooo... I watched a couple of YouTube videos and thought I would try my hand at putting this clear bra on my new SUP. Judging by the scuffs and dings on the old SUP, I knew where it was needed. The rails looked the worst cosmetically due to people borrowing it (paddle dings/scrapes) and also leaning/storing it on its side at times. From what I could tell, 2.5 to 3.5 inches wide X 6.5 to 7.5 feet long is standard for SUP rail protection films. I bought 6" X 8' and decided to cut it in half to make two 3" x 7' rail protectors.So my process was fairly simple...1. Washed the rails with dish soap so remove oils/wax.2. Dried the rails with a chamois.3. Used rubbing compound to remove a few scuffs and spots.4. Ended up quickly compounding the whole rail.5. Washed again with diluted dish soap on a micro-fiber cloth.6. Put a few drops of baby shampoo in a small spray bottle.7. Thoroughly rinsed the rails with the shampoo water and dried with lint free cloth.8. Rinsed again with shampoo water and left the water on.9. Lined up my 3" x 7' strip of clear bra and chose a starting point.10. Applied one end to a slightly dry spot so it would hold and thoroughly wet the strip and rail with shampoo water as I applied the full length of the strip on the rail (factory cut side up, my cut side down).11. The part I stuck to the somewhat dry area was then lifted and wetted. The whole piece then slid around easily to get it perfectly positioned.12. I did find a couple of pieces of tiny clear bra fragments and a hair under the strip. I lifted and removed/rinsed until gone. This was very easy to do and prevented air bubbles from being trapped around these things.13. Again, with it perfectly positioned... I began in the middle and sqeegeed the water from under the strip working water up and out, and down and out. I was not using the squeegee left/right, but always up/down.14. Water would often suck back under due to capillary action so I would dry with a micro-fiber as I used the squeegee to work out the water.15. The whole strip is so clear it is almost invisible once applied. I then let it dry overnight.The remaining 12" x 6" (I applied 7 feet of an 8 foot strip to the rails):I protected the edges of my paddle with 3 strips a bit less than 1/2" wide. (Watch YouTube for dry application method... very easy!)I applied a 1.75" x 12" strip to the tail of the board because of how I transport this in my truck (tail first and bottom up). Again, wet application with shampoo water.I applied a 3" x 12" strip around the nose. Again, wet application...This is not meant to be directions or a "prescription" for how you should do your own board, this is simply a summary of what I did to my SUP and I could not be happier with the results. This is also just an initial impression. I will update this if I find the product yellows, lifts, or somehow otherwise fails to live up to my expectations.After re-reading the item description, genuine 3M Clear Bra is "urethane paint protection film" and this is listed as vinyl. This could be my bad... but right now it looks great and was extremely easy/forgiving to apply.UPDATE: there is an online video showing the difference between vinyl and urethane film. Vinyl is easily pierced with a thin object like a car key, while urethane is not. I tested a bit of scrap from this roll and could not pierce it with an ink pen, even when the ballpoint was exposed. I believe that this is urethane film.I have also used my SUP and paddle. Both held up perfectly. The paddle was used to push off tress, rocks, and the sandy bottom repeatedly and shows not abrasions. VERY HAAPPY!!
E**Y
Alright
Wasn’t to big of a fan just for the fact it didn’t want to stick properly and had to throw the whole thing out. Great customer service though, might try it out again in the future
P**J
Good/inexpensive mountain bike frame protection (+ "how to...")
Good, clear frame protection - spend a little bit of time and save $$$ in avoiding "custom" kits. Understandably, works best on straight "tubes"...(1) *PRACTICE* on a piece of pipe first... something you don't care about vs your prized MTB. I used a the handle portion of a hardcart/dolly ... Learn how to apply it AND remove it...(2) Use a spray bottle of a few drops of dish soap and water - TBH, the wetter the better... KEEP THE SURFACE WET... once it starts to stick... well, the rest of it isn't going to move either(3) Work out the bubbles with your finger/thumb; working outward from the center - again, a "straight" tube is best whether for practice or your bike's frame... bends in the frame will leave gaps in the vinyl... (forget the squeegee, use your finger/s to work out bubbles...)(4) Once you get the process down, use a newspaper to cut a template, then trim the vinyl to match - round the edges to avoid/prevent "pull-ups"... In my case, with 3 bottle cage screws on the top of the downtube, I left about a 1" gap at the top... Once it dries in place, the seams are nearly invisible.(5) Remember what I said about "keep it (your target) wet"? Once you peel the vinyl from its backing and begin to center it on your frame... keep your spray bottle handy and use it often... if you do, the vinyl will slide around easily.(6) When the "rubber meets the road" (and you are putting this on your MTB), a good helper is invaluable. one that can spray the frame when/where you need it (so you don't have to stop what you are doing), point out bubbles that you missed, help squeegee others out, make sure the piece is straight/even, etc.(7) You will likely get out 95% of the bubbles - focus on the big ones, working from the center outward... the smallest ones will disappear when it dries. Learn to live with "some" - at some point it's going to dry and you'll be chasing your tail... so focus on the big ones and work smaller...(8) Once you are satisfied/done, leave your bike alone for a few days ... let it dry before subjecting it to the beating of a trail and NEVER use a power washer on it - it is bad for your seals anyway and can pull up a corner of the new vinyl you just applied which then sticks to dirt, pollen, etc. and looks horrible.
K**N
Works perfectly
Easy applicationLooks greatGreat product
Trustpilot
3 weeks ago
1 month ago