IMAYCC Bike Motor Kit 80cc Motorized Bike Kit 2 Stroke Gas Bicycle Engine Conversion Kit Fit for 26-28" Bikes (80CC Silver)

I recently purchased and installed this bike engine kit, and despite a few hiccups, I'm ultimately very pleased with the results. The engine itself sounds fantastic. Performance wise, I've had little to no issues since installation. The installation, however, was a bit of an adventure. While the engine itself is relatively straightforward, the included guide book is completely useless. Every comment/review I found recommended skipping it entirely, and I wholeheartedly agree. Save yourself the frustration and head straight to YouTube for a visual walkthrough. A couple of specific installation notes: • Handlebar Hole: The instructions suggest drilling a hole for the throttle cable. I used a center punch, as I do not have a drill. It gave me a clean, precise hole. • Chain Issues: Be warned – the chain that comes with this kit is larger than standard bike chains. My standard chain breaker was completely ineffective. I ended up using my center punch and the spark plug remover from the included tool kit to remove the necessary links. It was a bit of a workaround, but it got the job done. Despite these installation challenges, I'm very happy with the engine. It's powerful, sounds great, and has been reliable. If you're comfortable with a bit of DIY and willing to rely on online resources, this engine is a great value. Tools I used: • Standard Pliers - for nuts • Needle Nose Pliers - for master link • Ratchet with Sockets - for nuts • Phillips Screwdriver - for screws • Center Punch + Hammer - for hole + chain • Allen Keys - for bolts • Tin Snippers - for rubber piece & zip ties • Zip ties - for securing cables • Electrical Tape - for protecting wires *I run standard gasoline + 2 cycle engine oil.

I bought this because my electric bike has distance ceilings that frustrate me and I live in a community with a lot of mountains and I'm not as young as I used to be to get up the hills on my weekend rides or rides with family or friends. I have an EE degree from many years ago so how hard could it be, and I have put together many small engines for my kids when they were growing up. Boy was I wrong, but then who could've assumed the manufacturer didn’t want to include manuals. First off there's no wiring diagram which is dangerous when you're involving a CDI/magneto and gasoline. But the CDI wires (Blue/Blk) are dual(spliced) already with female connector and matching blue/black/white(not used-must seal with elec. tape or should be remove from the magneto altogether you're comfortable doing that but not difficult if you open the casing. So very straightforward as it is logically outlined. Easy Peasy... Unless you get no spark, because then you have no idea if the wires are colored correctly or not because there is no wiring diagram or even installation manual only a parts description those don't describe the wires! So the assumption is blue to blue and black to black, if there's no spark is there a better assumption, what did the manufacturer simply send you add CDI or magneto? How would I know, I don't know where the probabilities lie given this is a brand new unit it's hard to assume that would be the case. I put my meter on it it says the wiring has continuity so why no spark? Unless the black is not ground and instead hot? But no one asked and no diagram to verify. So is the black from the Magneto/CDI hot instead of ground then? Is the spark plug bad? Is the ignition wire bad? Is the magneto/CDI bad? Is the CAD/WRAP in the engine bad? How can you know if you don't have confirmation of wiring to start from? It's all brand new out-of-the-box so I couldn't imagine that the parts are bad, so I guess I could replace the CDI, ignition wire, spark plug, and Magneto together and if there's still no spark then I would know that the wires are colored incorrectly. Are you kidding me? That's the only solution they give us? Wouldn't it be easier to include instruction manual that at least confirms Black wires on the CDI, CAD, and kill switch are all ground? I asked the company for a wiring diagram but no response (except that the white wire should be taped off as it can short the starter and I should go find a YouTube video for wiring specifications of their products from a third party, but not identifying any that would be applicable). Because I am just curious, I'm going to replace the magneto, the CID, the spark plug, ignition wire and the Killswitch from another kit that I just bought and put together and runs perfectly. The two kits and various parts look identical except for their badges,so it looks like the same manufacturer. I'll update on what I find out tomorrow..

For me, after four times with this kit, I'm impressed. My first one was built in early spring last year, and is still going straight and strong. They are very reliable once the little bugs are worked out. It takes a bit of tinkering during break in. Micro adjustments will lessen the stress on motors, which can be fragile because they're not metal. The best mod you can do is put cut pieces of tire inner tube to fit in between the engine mounts and the bike itself. This almost free mod, is the best thing to keep it from vibrating things loose. And a close second is the brakes... If you have to GO! You need the WOAH 😉 If you want more performance, start with better carb and/or an exhaust pipe with expansion chamber. adjusting the clutch . making sure the chain and everything is lined up right. adjusting carb and breaks, all of these things are necessary and very important so that your project will last. It's best for longevity and performance to break in the engine slowly, with a bit of extra oil in the fuel mixture. My personal IMAYCC 80cc procedure is: 30:1 which is 4.3oz of oil per gallon for the first 3 full tanks. Try to vary throttle settings a lot. After the break in tanks, a 40:1 mix is my recommendation for normal use. If a nut/bolt is going to come loose, it usually happens during the break in and "shake down" rides. I use a torque wrench for the important hardware such as engine mounting bolts or chain tensioners I like the size of the tank... Looks average, but is bigger. The small fuel lines get hard and need replaced after a season of riding to prevent leaking next time. They will hold out for quite a while with regular use, but if it sits a lot they will need changed sooner. If the engine seems to be carbonized and sooty, add a couple tablespoons of ATF to the fuel, then run it dry. These kits are awesome! And fun to build! Any questions you could possibly have, are answered easily through a YouTube or Google search. Most 80cc engines have the same processes for maintenance and repairs. Enjoy, Friends 🤠

product is good came fast and not to hard to install but clamps dont fit all bikes and u will most likely have to shave in your frame for it to fit. most parts are cheep like the chain u will need to replace it. but for the price you cant complain goes fast good for offroading tops out at like 45 stock. i suggest putting on a mountain bike. my friend has a surron that cost 5000 and i gapped him with this.