OM SYSTEM Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 60mm F2.8 Macro for Micro Four Thirds System Camera, Weather Sealed Design, Focus Limit Switch Bright

Works beautifully. Clear. Easy to use.

PRICE, QUALITY, AND PERFORMANCE > PRICE: about$ 500 for the Zuiko vs $1000 for the Leica. > QUALITY: The fit and finish of both lenses in very good, maybe a little higher for the Leica. The Leica is "prettier", but on the camera the Zuiko is more impressively "techy". >> A number of reviewers report manufacturing flaws in the Zuiko. Quite a few Leica purchasers (including myself) report that the autofocus system fails and the first Lumix 14-42mm PZ lens I received had a heavy haze on internal lens elements. I suggest purchasing only from Amazon, because return postage is free on defective items, and they will ship a new item even before you return the defective one. > PERFORMANCE: Professional reviews based on exhaustive tests rate the Zuiko as sharp or sharper than the Leica. LENSHOODS > The optional Zuiko lenshood is exceptional--the best lenshood I've ever used. When you want to use it, you just slide it forward. When you want to stow the lens, you just slide the lenshood back, where it protects the lens. > The supplied Leica lenshood is totally inadequate, and as far as I can tell, there are no suitable lenshoods available which are specifically sold for this lens. SIZE AND SHAPE--(and in-camera flash) > The Zuiko does not get in the way of the in-camera flash (albeit you may have to retract the lenshood at the highest magnifications). Like all Panasonic Lumix/Lieca lenses, the Lieca is unnecessarily fat, as fat as a comparable 35mm film lens. It is so fat that it gets in the way of the in-camera flash (of my Lumix GX7). > The Zuiko is tall and skinny, and will probably rattle around in a compartment by itself. The Leica is short, and easy to store in a gadget bag, e.g., it can be stacked in a compartment with another short lens. FOCAL LENGTH AND WORKING DISTANCE > The Zuiko is 60mm (=120mm 35mm equivalent). The Leica has a focal length of 45mm (=90mm 35mm equivalent). So, the Zuiko is 1 1/2 times "longer" focal length, which basically means that your subject is 1 1/2 times farther away. --> The greater working distance is a benefit for true macrophotography; but often a hindrance for larger subjects. With the Zuiko a 12" high subject is ~6' away; with the the Leica is ~4' away --> When working with the Zuiko, when I want to photograph a cluster of flowers (say 12" in diameter), I often find myself wishing for a shorter focal length lens--indeed, I usually switch to my Lumix 14-42mm PZ. Other effects of the longer focal length of the Zuiko are: --> Increases the effect of shake--so tripods, flashes, etc. are more necessary with the Zuiko. --> Photographing objects larger than about 12" tall, the greater distance requires a more powerful flash, and it is harder to position the flash at 45 degrees to the subject (which is ideal for most subjects). --> You can waste a lot of time switching to a shorter focal length lens, and back to the Zuiko macro, etc. --> In a pinch, the Leica can be used as a copystand lens, say to copy a page from a book; practically speaking the Zuiko cannot. --> The relatively short working distance of the Leica means that arranging lighting at the best angle may often be impossible at high magnifications (say for subjects less than 1" tall) because the lens body is in the way. Indeed it is often difficult to properly light some subjects, say 1/2" tall, even with the Zuiko. > Neither lens is suitable for high magnification work (meaning magnification greater than 1:1 with bellows or extension tubes), because of their long focal lengths and therefore the large amount of extension needed to achieve greater magnifications. For example the Neewer® Automatic Macro Extension Tube DG 10MM+16MM FT1 for Micro Four Thirds M4/3 Camera, fits Olympus PEN E-P1 P2 P3 P5 E-PL1 PL1s PL2 PL3 PL5 PL6 E-PM1 PM2 OM-D E-M5 E-M1 Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH1 GH2 GH3 GX7 G1 G2 G10 G3 G5 G6 GF1 GF2 GF3 GF5 GF6 GX1 GM extension tube set provides 1" (total) of extension, which gets you from a minimum subject size (filling the frame) of 1/2" high only to 3/8" high---you'd probably need 1 1/2" of extension to get down to 1/4" high. I've tried and been unsuccessful in getting sharp images using extension tubes. > CONCLUSION: After several years and 10,000s of photos (really), I am glad that the Lieca failed and I replaced it with the Zuiko. The longer focal length and other features of the Zuiko are ideal for the true macro work I do---mostly on a tripod --- at least half the photos I take are of subjects less than 2" tall . The Lieca is ideal as a more general-purpose lens---i.e., for portraits and macro shots of subjects greater than 2" tall. LUMIX IN-LENS STABILIZATION > Lumix in-lens stabilization is impressive, and a major incentive to remain "all Lumix" (if you have a Lumix camera). However, it turns out that the stabilization is ineffective for closeup photography, and is not recommended if the camera is on a tripod, copystand, etc. Since I plan to use the Zuiko exclusively for true macro work--the lack of in-lens stabilization is unimportant to me. The Lumix (or Olympus) in-camera stabilization still works for both lenses (in ordinary photography, not macro work). AUTO-FOCUS > I have had no problem with autofocus with the Zuiko, albeit you have to use the limiting switch in many circumstances. The autofocus on my Lieca did not work, so I can't make comparisons. The Zuiko has three settings (easily selectable on the lens): >> "0.19--0.4m" which means you can fill the frame with a subject ½" to 4" tall >> "0.19--infinity" which means you can fill the frame with a subject ½" tall to infinity; i.e., no limits. >> "0.4--infinity" which means you can fill the frame with a subject 4" tall to infinity. > Autofocus in any camera cannot reach maximum magnification: To get to maximum magnification (1:1, i.e., subject is ~1/2" high) you have to switch to manual focus, then manually focus to maximum (which is not so simple to find since the focusing ring does not stop at either infinity nor maximum magnification on either lens---it just keeps rotating). With the Zuiko you can push the "1:1 switch" to go straight to maximum magnification. You still have to switch to manual focus (to prevent the camera from trying to re-focus when you press the shutter button). The Lieca has no "go to 1:1" switch. > Focus "peaking" on my Lumix GX7 (and probably other Lumix cameras) makes manual focusing easy, and is very valuable in double checking the autofocus. Enable "AF+MF" and "Peaking". I assigned "Peaking" to Function Key 3, so that I can easily switch between "Hi" and "Low" peaking. I also recommend enabling "focus assist" with the option that it is activated by the left < (#) button, in which case the "menu" button toggles the magnification. FOCUSING SCALE ON THE ZUIKO > The Zuiko also has a focusing scale, so you can manually pre-set the lens to your desired magnification: >> "1:1 0.19/0.62" which = a subject ½" tall at a distance of 19cm = 2 1/2" from end of lens. >> "1:1.3 0.20/0.66" which = a subject 2½" tall at a distance of 20cm = 2 3/4" from end of lens. >> "1:2 0.23/0.76" which = a subject 1" tall at a distance of 23cm = 4" from end of lens. >> "1:4 0.34/1.11" which = a subject 2" tall at a distance of 24cm = 4 1/2" from end of lens. DEFINITION: When I say "a subject x tall" above, I mean the image of a subject filling the height of the frame of a still photo with the camera set at 3/4 image ratio (the native, highest pixel setting). NOTE: the metric distances quoted are from the focal plane, to get the distance from the end of the lens (with lenshood retracted), 5" was subtracted. RECOMMENDED ACCESSORIES > LENS HOOD: Olympus LH-49 Sliding Lens Hood or less expensive copy JJC LH-J49 Professional Lens Hood for Olympus 60mm F 2.8 Lens , Replaces Olympus LH-49 > MAIN FLASH UNIT: I use a Neewer TT560 Flash Speedlite for Canon Nikon Sony Panasonic Olympus Fujifilm Pentax Sigma Minolta Leica and Other SLR Digital SLR Film SLR Cameras and Digital Cameras with single-contact Hot Shoe . It is only $30 but is powerful enough to take 1:1 photos at f22 and ISO200. It is manual, which is best for macrophotography. Remarkably, max power at f22 perfectly lights most subjects between 1" and 4" tall---so the Neewer flash is perfect for macro photography. > FILL FLASH: I use a $13 PLR Studio Series Pro Slave Flash Includes Mounting Bracket For The Canon Digital EOS Rebel SL1 (100D), T5i (700D), T5, T4i (650D), T3 (1100D), T3i (600D), T1i (500D), T2i (550D), XSI (450D), XS (1000D), XTI (400D), XT (350D), 1D C, 70D, 60D, 60Da, 50D, 40D, 30D, 20D, 10D, 5D, 1D X, 1D, 5D Mark 2, 5D Mark 3, 7D, 7D Mark 2, 6D Digital SLR Cameras for fill flash. It can work as a main flash,, but doesn't have the power of the TT560. > Using either or both of the above flash units, you need a sync cord or a wireless trigger. I use a Neewer 4 Channels Wireless/ Radio Flash Trigger Set With 2 Receivers > CASE: Pearstone Onyx 30 Lens Case The Pearstone case works especially well for me, because my Lumix 45-150mm lens is the same length as the Zuiko. I use the Pearstone case for my Lumix 45-150mm when I'm shooting macro, or when the macro is stowed in my main case; and visa-versa. > TRIPOD: Dolica TX570DS Ultra Compact Tripod with Professional Ball Head and Built-In Monopod (Black) The Dolica is extraordinarily versatile. The minimum working height is about 3" (to the bottom of the camera), and it can fit into tight or irregular places---which are common when shooting forests, etc. The quality is very impressive at the price. > REMOTE RELEASE: FotoTech Wired Remote Shutter Release Control DMW-RS1 Replacement for Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ150, DMC-FZ200, DMC-G1, DMC-G10, DMC-G2, DMC-G3, DMC-G5, DMC-G6, DMC-GF1, DMC-GF6, DMC-GH1, DMC-GH2, DMC-GH3, DMC-GH4, DMC-GX1, DMC-GX7, DMC-L1, DMC-L10 with Fot... > Click on “Stoney” just below the product title to see my other reviews, or leave a comment to ask a question.

This review is for the 60mm macro as it might be used in a fairly narrow and specific manner: To shoot insects, amphibs, reptiles, fungus and other small things handheld in the field. For this purpose I feel the lens is a great choice and a deal at the price. Shooting macro in the field is very different from bringing critters into the house and shooting them in a light box. I don’t bother too much with specs — results are what count — and I have no idea how this lens compares to competitors. I’m also not an especially skilled or “ technical” photographer although I often have to shoot very quickly or risk the shot completely since bugs, well, fly. All the insect, amphibians, herp, and fungus shots posted on IG at jeremy.nature.photos are taken with this lens (unless you go back a long way when I was using the lovely nikkor 105mm — but that’s noted in the hashtags). Today, with this lens, I always use flash, I typically shoot bugs at f14 or wider and make only minimal corrections in LR (typically shadows, blacks, whites). Coupled with a micro four thirds Olympus this lens makes it easy to shoot one handed and, for the type of critters I’m shooting in the field, that’s critical since I often need to hold a branch to one side, gently pull down a leaf or brace a stem. You will not get attractive bokeh with this baby (unless there is a trick I don’t know) but you will get nice crisp images. Sometimes I open it up (meaning that I shot at f 2.8) in order to shoot a snake or larger reptile which might spook (or kill me) if I get too close — I’ve no complaints. I’ve observed that this is an extremely popular lens for macro use in the field (handheld). I LOVE the 1:1 wheel on the side of the lens. A flick of the finger and boom — all you have to do is move your body to focus. I don’t use the autofocus much but it is excellent. I’ve travelled a lot with this lens so it has been bounced around a lot. No problems. Overall, for the macro photography style I described, it is perfect. Check the IG address above — one pic is worth a ton of words. UPDATE: After a couple of years, many trips to jungles and forests, almost daily use, and 25,000+ photos I still love this lens! I attached focus lights to it with Velcro, modified the 1:1 control with superglue, never use a lens cap and generally abuse the heck out of it. The little beggar keeps on working!

This review is for: Olympus M. Zuiko 60mm F/2.8 Lens This is a great lens. Handling is weird. I have both this lens as well as the Panasonic 30mm macro lens. Optically, they are both absolute jewels. The 30mm get the nod from me for copy work where the shorter working distance doesn't matter but (slightly) sharper corners matter. For nature and non-flat objects, the 60mm gives more room for lighting and is blisteringly sharp. I wish the 60mm handled like the 30mm (simple) but it doesn't. This is where it gets weird. It has a focus limiter switch (pictured) with 3 ranges. Beyond those, the limit switch is spring loaded. It took me awhile to figure out what it was doing: It takes the lens to 1:1. Okay, 'weird' all of a sudden becomes 'genius'! lol Optically, the lens is superb, sharp already at f/2.8. For single-image capture of skittish objects, the greater working distance wins out over the 30mm macro lens. Combined with pixel shifting and the m4/3 sensor, I can obtain crisp images of small objects. With focus stacking, the results are equally satisfactory for small objects (although I still rely on bigger format cameras for larger subjects). This lens and micro four thirds are meant for macro photography. Great lens. Worth considering. Recommended without -- okay, maybe with one! -- reservation!

Such an easy lens to use and fab quality pics!

This is a great little. I’ve used it successfully with macro bracketing.

Als Hobby Marco Fotograf mein lieblings objektiv