IMAYCC Bike Motor Kit 80cc Motorized Bike Kit 2 Stroke Gas Bicycle Engine Conversion Kit Fit for 26-28" Bikes Black

Everything except for the spark plug and fuel filter work great. Chain was very long had to get a chain breaker but all the #415 chains are 110 link so it was whatever. Spark plug wouldn’t fire unless going really fast down hill and then the fuel filter cracked when I put on the fuel line. Went to advanced auto and got the spark plug and fuel filter for $10. Still in the break in period but it’s pretty good still. I used ngk br6hs

JUnk, Junk, Junk, Did I mention it's junk? Problems right from the start! Got it assembled, fairly easy since I have done 3 similar in the past (not this junk brand) and when I tried it out, the clutch would not engage because the pin they use was not long enough, that took an hour to pinpoint. Went to the farm store and got a bolt, cut it a quarter inch longer and installed it, that lasted for about 8 stop and go cycles and then started to not engage. Pun in a different cut-down bolt and lasted through about 8 cycles and started to not work again. Pulled clutch again and checked engagement rod and discovered that the bottom "lobe" if you want to call it that, of the engagement rod was wore from being a square shape to being rounded after just 16 times of starting the engine. Filled in the edge with the welder and ground it down so it would turn smoothly and assembled it. Got it running and took it for a ride and the muffer decides to split apart, comes off and bounces into the traffic lane where it promptly gets hit by a city bus and flattened, mind you, the engine has been started and ran 17 times and has no more than 3 hours use. I get home, cut the exhaust pipe pipe straight and weld on a lawn mower muffler, get it running and after a dozen or so starts, the clutch is acting up again, tomorrow I will make a new engagement pin out of a Grade 8 bolt and see if it lasts longer. There is no option to contact the seller and since the muffler that came with it is gone, I doubt if they would take it back. Learn from my mistake and keep scrolling past this item, you will be better off as this POS is not worth the time or money.

For me, after four times with this kit, I'm impressed. My first one was built in early spring last year, and is still going straight and strong. They are very reliable once the little bugs are worked out. It takes a bit of tinkering during break in. Micro adjustments will lessen the stress on motors, which can be fragile because they're not metal. The best mod you can do is put cut pieces of tire inner tube to fit in between the engine mounts and the bike itself. This almost free mod, is the best thing to keep it from vibrating things loose. And a close second is the brakes... If you have to GO! You need the WOAH 😉 If you want more performance, start with better carb and/or an exhaust pipe with expansion chamber. adjusting the clutch . making sure the chain and everything is lined up right. adjusting carb and breaks, all of these things are necessary and very important so that your project will last. It's best for longevity and performance to break in the engine slowly, with a bit of extra oil in the fuel mixture. My personal IMAYCC 80cc procedure is: 30:1 which is 4.3oz of oil per gallon for the first 3 full tanks. Try to vary throttle settings a lot. After the break in tanks, a 40:1 mix is my recommendation for normal use. If a nut/bolt is going to come loose, it usually happens during the break in and "shake down" rides. I use a torque wrench for the important hardware such as engine mounting bolts or chain tensioners I like the size of the tank... Looks average, but is bigger. The small fuel lines get hard and need replaced after a season of riding to prevent leaking next time. They will hold out for quite a while with regular use, but if it sits a lot they will need changed sooner. If the engine seems to be carbonized and sooty, add a couple tablespoons of ATF to the fuel, then run it dry. These kits are awesome! And fun to build! Any questions you could possibly have, are answered easily through a YouTube or Google search. Most 80cc engines have the same processes for maintenance and repairs. Enjoy, Friends 🤠

amazing engine runs like a beautie after building it fired up almost first try, the assembly was pretty easy and it fits almost any bike with a v frame the best part is to install the engine and the worst it the sprocket be careful with the center of the sprocket and the wheel. so it came almost undamaged exept the tank, it was bent but had mo leaks and the box looked deformed I bought a 32 tooth sprocket and I get speeds about to 55 km/h so like 30-35 mph about mixing the fuel and the oil is up to you just add about 5 to 10 caps of oil into there and will run good, about the miles per gallon it's really small I go around 2 weeks at one tank and the tank is pretty big. about the speedometer it worked for like 30 minutes and died and new battery dosent help. I got a problem because of my fault I burned the clutch because I was trying to start from standing without pedaling so I had to buy a new one so I will warn yall that the clutch is not that strong so if your bike is running you will have to pedal first and then let of clutch and the give gas. the choke does not work it only starts on open so I don't use it. the clutch lever is not that good because the lock on it doesn't hold it good enough and it could slip. the chain will loosen a lot so you will need to tighten the tensinor from time to time.breakin in the engine should last about 200 miles.the fuel filter will turn bad in a couple of days and you should probably buy a better one from autoparts so it won't leak. SOME TIPS: when you are assembling your bike and don't know how to get the chain through the engine drive sprocket, just grab a hart tool and the right socket and spin it clock wise and you will get your chain trough when starting your bike you should get some speed give it full throttle and it will start in a couple of tries and you will have to tighten the bolt at the left of the carburator for good running pase. if your bike won't start check your carburator if it has leaks or if the gas is working the the fuel is coming in to the carburator, check the spark plug to check if you have spark you will have to sit on you bike pedal touch your spark with your finger int if is slightly hits you the it means you have spark if not check the wiring and check if it's clipped on to the clam if all of that dosent hel that you should try another spark plug. that's it thanks for reading.

I recently purchased and installed this bike engine kit, and despite a few hiccups, I'm ultimately very pleased with the results. The engine itself sounds fantastic. Performance wise, I've had little to no issues since installation. The installation, however, was a bit of an adventure. While the engine itself is relatively straightforward, the included guide book is completely useless. Every comment/review I found recommended skipping it entirely, and I wholeheartedly agree. Save yourself the frustration and head straight to YouTube for a visual walkthrough. A couple of specific installation notes: • Handlebar Hole: The instructions suggest drilling a hole for the throttle cable. I used a center punch, as I do not have a drill. It gave me a clean, precise hole. • Chain Issues: Be warned – the chain that comes with this kit is larger than standard bike chains. My standard chain breaker was completely ineffective. I ended up using my center punch and the spark plug remover from the included tool kit to remove the necessary links. It was a bit of a workaround, but it got the job done. Despite these installation challenges, I'm very happy with the engine. It's powerful, sounds great, and has been reliable. If you're comfortable with a bit of DIY and willing to rely on online resources, this engine is a great value. Tools I used: • Standard Pliers - for nuts • Needle Nose Pliers - for master link • Ratchet with Sockets - for nuts • Phillips Screwdriver - for screws • Center Punch + Hammer - for hole + chain • Allen Keys - for bolts • Tin Snippers - for rubber piece & zip ties • Zip ties - for securing cables • Electrical Tape - for protecting wires *I run standard gasoline + 2 cycle engine oil.

Bolts for the rag joint are garbage. Nuts began cross threading halfway down and literally stripped the threads off the bolt when I tried to remove them. So Rag joint is single use. Engine worked okay after much adjustment and alignment as well as carb tuning.

Initial installation was fairly fast and easy once I found a bike that this would fit on. I had to get a different old bike because the mountain bike I had would not let the motor fit. I did break a lot of the bolts and would recommend replacing all the hardware. I would also recommend locktite on all the hardware and marking your bolts so you can tell if they've backed of from the vibration. Getting the bike ride ready for longer trips did take significantly more time. (I rebuilt wheels and repacked bearings. Routed new brake, installed lights and some storage for tools,) The initial few miles were really rough. They were "I've made a huge mistake" rough but things have smoothed out considerably over the first 80 miles. With a bit lower tire pressure and proper greasing of the bucking bar and gearbox it's downright enjoyable to ride. As for fuel economy... I did not follow the instructions and have been running 38:1 for the entire time I've run the bike. Riding at a max of 30 mph and an average of ~16-20 mph I'm getting at a minimum 115 mpg. Something is always seeming to need some adjustment or some maintenance or some repair. I don't see this as a downside, it's part of the fun. The work is always simple and can be handled in just a little time. Would definitely buy again.

What did I really expect to get here? Im no engineer, however Im not completely mechanically inept. This thing is the essence of Chinese garbage. Nothing universal or quality here. Still working on installation and Ill post an update when I get this bitch smoking down the road. A couple important things: 1. You need a bike with a big frame to fit the airbox and motor inside. Mine says 19" on the side and it barely fits. This is a regular mountain bike with 26" tires. Its a Kona Fire Mountain from like 1999- resurrecting my little bros old ride from middle school. 2. The bottom frame tube needs to small (25mm??) so that motor mounts without a hassle. I had to replace engine mounting studs and have used some U bolt straps to "secure" it. No doubt it will rattle apart and fall off the bike while Im cruising down the road without ALOT of loctite. 3. The directions are useless-if you have tinkered with a bike or motorcycle youll probably figure it out. 4. At this point Ill probably finish it just to spite the damn thing. Im sure the engine mount and rear sprocket alignment will be way off- resulting in all kinds of wear and tear and an overall short lifespan. Anyway I defiantly would not buy this again, however I will post an update if I survive the first couple rides.

product is good came fast and not to hard to install but clamps dont fit all bikes and u will most likely have to shave in your frame for it to fit. most parts are cheep like the chain u will need to replace it. but for the price you cant complain goes fast good for offroading tops out at like 45 stock. i suggest putting on a mountain bike. my friend has a surron that cost 5000 and i gapped him with this.