Smarter Flush 2" Dual Flush Valve with Handle

I have two issues with these units. The first is that all light flushes seem the same (about 3/4 gallon) and all heavy flushes (about 1.3 gallon) and that's good, but they each seem the same regardless of the position of the blue and red sliders. We bought 3 of these in total for all 3 toilets in the house and they all behave the same way.With a full tank, I turned off the incoming supply valve.Then after each light flush, I marked the inside of the tank with a pencil at the water level.I turned the supply valve back on and let it fill.I change the position of the blue slider and repeat.Pencil mark always at the same position.I duplicated that process for the heavy flush and same levels again but at a different pencil mark to the light flush. Unless I am doing something wrong the blue/red sliders do not seem to do much.The second issue is there is no disconnect of the flush lever. Meaning, the longer you hold the lever, the more water goes out regardless of the light/heavy flush selected. It is possible to empty the tank by holding the flush handle in the light flush position. Naturally that is not normally done, but how long before you let go of the lever is important. Try to explain to a 4-year old the difference between a 1-second hold and a 3-second hold.So are these worth it? Well, yes, kinda, but they need some tweaking. I now have it flushing smaller amounts by lowering the water level. It is still subject to the hold the lever down problem, but water volume is now good. In the picture, the "1" is where the top of the blue infill float valve was when only a single flush system. The "2" is where it now is as a dual flush. The "3" is the now, max water level.This is easy to do, but comes with a caveat that you may flood the bathroom if you do NOT put a clip (described below) back in correctly. DO NOT use the thing without that clip back in the correct position.Turn off the water supply valve as there is pressure under that fill tube and blue float valve assembly. You can remove the little clip in that assembly under the water level and turn that entire thing about 30-degrees anti-clockwise. Then push it down about 2" and turn it back clockwise. You may have to jiggle it up or down a tiny amount as there are slots it has to slide into allow it to turn and they are about 1/4" apart.Then put the little clip back in. It is a tricky job and it took me 5 minutes and 20+ tries to eventually get it in the first time. It's not hard to do, but just frustratingly fiddly getting hand and fingers in the right positions to slide it back in.BUT it is **mandatory** as you may flood the bathroom if you don't get it back in correctly. Without that clip the blue head is free to eventually rotate back to the sliding position. When that happens the water pressure will push the entire top part off the incoming tube. That's why it is designed to be rotated within the 1/4" slots. But the clip prevents it rotating around on it's own. MANDATORY!

For those of you who have endured the slings and arrows of an old style flush valve that has a flapper with a chain and mechanical handle, there is a better way. This valve has a solid gate like open and close action, so no more jiggling the flush handle to free a tangled chain. The flush mechanism is actuated by a handle that connects via a coated wire to the valve, so you wont be replacing a rusted out flush arm - if it is metal - or a broken one - if it is plastic. The handle is plastic but it is not under a great deal of stress, so my guess is that it will out last the seal between the flush valve body and the tank. As indicated in another post, if you have an older model toilet you may need to have the handle mounted so it points in the vertical rather than the horizontal direction. This is so since you will want to be able to move the handle in either a clockwise or counter clockwise direction to select the amount of water flushed and the overhang of the tank cover of older toilets will restrict that motion. There is one not so minor consideration in choosing this valve, you will have to remove the water tank from the toilet bowl. This is not a difficult undertaking unless the bolts and nuts that hold the bowl and tank together are heavily rusted. That case can be challenging. So when you are reinstalling the toilet tank be sure to coat the connecting nuts and bolts with petroleum jelly. There are two or three connecting nuts and bolts with both metal and rubber washers that hold the tank to the bowl. You can get a kit that supplies the needed hardware. As to the dual flush feature, I set the two adjustable level markers to mid range on both. That setting seems to work well to regulate the amount of water used for both a partial and a full tank flush. One further caveat, when the seal between the valve and the tank wears out you will have to once again perform surgery on the bowl and tank. The old style flapper did have one virtue, if the flapper wore out or became too stiff you only have to replace it.