Microswiss MK10 All Metal Hotend Kit .4mm Nozzle for WANHAO, FlashForge

I have purchased a FlashForge Creator Pro since 2015 and always struggled with print quality here and there. While the machine is really good which is why I bought it in the first place, I noticed the quality began to deteriorate in the past 6 month. I decided to change the heads and purchased the standard brass heads. However, this did not really seem to help improve the quality to my liking. I have been researching metal hotends and decided to upgrade the unit with the Mirco Swiss MK10. It took me about 1 hour and the instructions were really good.I use Makerbot and Simplify 3D programs for printing. I must say that I am totally satisfied with the quality of my prints with these new heads. I tested both left and right and they work really great. The Simplify 3D program give me better quality prints.My advice to you is to get rid of the damn brass head and PTFE tube if your printer has them. Upgrade to metal hotend and you won't regret it. I wish I had done this years ago. Here are a few items I printed with the new head at .20mm resolution. The top of the cap was at the bottom with the raft. I was amazed at how good it came out after removing the raft. I don't have a sample with the older head but I can tell you it would not look anything like this.

I bought this to improve the extruder nozzle on my Monoprice Maker Select Plus 3D printer. It adds the capability to use the included 0.04mm nozzle. But the real reason is the all metal fixture is just better quality than what was included. The printer was pretty great as it was, but with a high volume use it will need parts replaced and improved.Replacing the nozzle was not an easy task. I couldn't find instructions online, so I just went at it with some small tools, infinite patience and half a Saturday. When I was finished and I printed with the new 0.04mm nozzle it made it all worthwhile. Keep in mind it more than tripled my print time, but the print quality was staggering.I first tried to use this without changing the settings on the printer so it knew that I was using the smaller nozzle. That didn't work well. It made the item I printed, but it didn't hold together nicely, edges were wrong, it was all messed up. If you do this upgrade and get print results like that you have to change the settings so it knows the extruder you are using.Once you've changed the settings, it prints incredible things. I use Cura to write the print file to a SD card and print off that. Make sure you tell Cora of the correct nozzle size, and that's it. You don't have to change anything else. Then, when you don't need the quality, and you want the speed, just switch to a bigger nozzle, like 0.1mm, and tell Cora, and you're back how it came stock.Really, couldn't be easier. If there were instructions to install this item it would be better, but I can't blame the product, there are too many models to include instructions for them all. So, it gets a 5 star because it's an awesome product.[...]

I will write something for the Product as well as the instructions:The Product: As for the packages I received (qty 2 since I have dual extrudes), they each contained the hot end upgrade with the extruder tip as well as small syringes of thermal grease. Examining each part, I found that they were made with great care - precise in every aspect that I measured with a set of electronic calipers. All-in-all, I see no reason that these will not do as advertised and improve the laying down of the filament. If I do find otherwise - I will most certainly amend to this review.The Instructions: I can honestly say, I am not sure what was better the product or the pictured instructions. They walked you thru each step from disassembly to reassembly using very clear pictures and precise wording. However, with that stated I would say that if you are going to do this upgrade take your time and you may need some mechanical common sense.One other thing I did, knowing that I would be dealing with small screws and such - I lowered the head bed to the bottom and then I taped a piece of plastic (black garbage back cut to approx fit) to the inside of the whole unit to catch anything that I dropped - and a good thing I did - I dropped one of those itsy, bitsy, tiny, winy set screws.Well - have fun upgrading your printer.

If you're installing this kit into a dual extruder setup, I very much recommend that you print out the dual extruder calibration block (Thing 1386816) first and then use it to calibrate the extruders to equal nozzle distance. I screwed in the nozzles all the way, calibrated the hot end with the block, and had zero nozzle distance issues on my first print, which is something akin to a miracle in these setups. Calibrating with your print bed is a sucker's game. Otherwise, the online instructions are quite good, provided you follow them closely.It probably goes without saying, but you'll need to tweak your print temperatures and settings to accommodate for the different properties of the all-metal hotend. The hot end is a major component of your printer... it's very much like trying to tweak a new printer for the best prints. If you go into this expecting that the same settings you used before are 100% appropriate for the new all-metal hotend(s), you're probably going to be disappointed. Print some calibration cubes, experiment with temperature and speed, etc.I don't want to seem like a downer, though, because this is an amazing upgrade that opens up a new world of speed, materials, and quality... and unlike an e3Dv6, you don't need to convert over to a Bowden extrusion setup to get the benefits. If you've got a Mk10 setup and want to move beyond ABS and PLA into the cool-kid stuff like Nylon and PETG, this is the ticket.