Philips Lighting S7R827K10 Led Surface Mount Light Fixture

These replaced a few "builder's grade" fixtures that were placeholders until "real" fixtures were found. The difference was dramatic, and, overall, I'm highly satisfied with the whole experience. If you're not afraid of a couple of wire nuts, they install very quickly, and look great. They respond VERY nicely to my dimmers, going from blindly bright to almost entirely dark quite smoothly.You'll first attach the included thin metal mounting plate to your ceiling box. The fixture itself then snaps to the mounting plate with two clips. The clips were apparently designed to resist the pull of a freight train. The lamps, however, are very light and don't require much force to keep them against the ceiling. I felt like if I installed the lamps using the clips as they came from the factory, I would probably cave in my drywall or destroy the electrical box trying to pop them against the mounting plate. I would also need a trained gorilla to pull the light OFF the plate if I ever needed to take them down.Here's a hint: While nice and safe down on the ground, practice popping the mounting plate on and off the back of the lamps. Permanently bend the steel clips inwards to take some tension off them until you can pop the plate on and off so the lamp will be held securely but still attach and detach easily. I found I could bend the clips so they exerted a fraction of their original force, and the lamps were STILL held on nice and tight, and flush against the drywall. If I ever need to pop one of the lamps out in the future, I won't have to risk ripping down the entire ceiling to free it. You will see some people in the comments complain that the lamps don't fit perfectly flush to the ceiling. I will address this, but I do NOT think adding or removing a little pressure from the steel clips has anything to do with this at all. Also while safe on the ground, snap on the mounting plate and carefully examine the completed assembly edge-on to ensure that the mounting plate is sitting flush against, and perhaps even a little recessed within the lamp. If the mounting plate is flush and level and tight at this stage, and the lamp ends up NOT flush against the ceiling later on, you know the lamp is NOT the problem.While installing five of these, if I had a lamp that wasn't sitting flush, it came down to one of a few easily correctable issues. Let's assume your drywall is nice and flat. It could be that your electrical box protrudes a bit past the drywall. I would consider using a Dremel tool to shave a bit of plastic off the edge of the box in that case. It could be that you have a bunch of wiring and wire nuts filling the box, and the light can't fully seat itself inside the box. There's a little plastic encased transformer on the back of the lamp that has to fit inside the box. You're going to have to pack your wiring in very carefully. Spread those wire nuts around the perimeter of the box to make room for the transformer. Make sure the lamp is well seated side-to-side on the mounting plate. You can see this best while playing with it on the ground -- you have to have the lamp lined up with the plate just right for it to line up and grab both sides evenly. Get it right on the ground and you'll have no problem on the ladder.You will need dimmers unless you really want the full force of these lights. They are BRIGHT. Consider that the 90 CRI versions of these lights (I'm reviewing the 80 CRI version) don't put out as many lumens. For my hallways, that might've actually been a better choice. I probably use them at 20% brightness and it's more than enough.This lamp creates light from a ring of LEDs around the PERIMETER of the lamp. The diffuser is filled with this light. It's quite effective, but I will disagree with another reviewer that the perimeter LEDs are IMPOSSIBLE to see. If you dim the lights and look carefully enough, you can see them. I've attached a photo, and had to tweak it a little bit to highlight the effect, but if you look around the edge, you can see signs of individual LEDs. The vast majority of the time you will NEVER see this effect, especially at higher brightnesses. Remember, I've adjusted my photo to exaggerate it.Another thing to note is that if you're going for a true downlight effect, a surface mounted light can come close, but a little light is going to spill out laterally. I've attached a set of "before" and "after" photos, and you can see that now MUCH less light is washing the ceiling, but there is still some light washing the walls, even from nearly 2ft distance. In my photos, I wouldn't pay attention to the absolute color of the light -- my camera dynamically adjusts and often doesn't render true color. Also, I kept the old fixtures quite dim, and at low power they looked especially yellow. The new lamps are still on the warm yellow side, but the light is very crisp, and maintains its proper color better even when considerably dimmed.The lamps do not make an airtight seal between the air above and below the lamp. (Many light fixtures come with a thick blanket of insulation backing.) This could be a problem for you for energy efficiency reasons, or because air migration after some number of years leaves dark "deposits" around the edge of the lamp. Consider some self adhesive foam weatherstripping to run around the back of the lamp if this is a concern. Go with a thin strip so that the lamp can still sit as flush as possible. The instructions advise putting a bead of silicone around the backplate for use in wet environments, so this might be an option to help with thermal insulation as well.Installation demands that you use cabling with 90C insulation. If you have a fairly recently built house with NM-B "Romex" cabling, you're fine. The NM-B standard is a 90-degree C insulation standard. However, if you have an older house with 60C or 75C cable insulation, I would be surprised if these LED lamps made enough heat to cause a problem, especially if dimmed. I am not an authority on these matters, however.Remember that you're wiring sensitive LEDs up directly to your household current. A whole-house surge suppressor (they're surprisingly cheap and easy to install) can go a LONG way to protecting these sorts of electronics for many years.Whether these lights are on at night or off during the day, they've really classed up the look of the hallway, and I'm happy with the results.

This is an outstanding lighting product. It comes in and out of availability on Amazon, so you may have to check back regularly, or go direct to the site of one of the Marketplace vendors, like Energy Saving Lighting (I've bought from them both direct and via Amazon).This Philips LED light basically allows you to install what looks like a recessed light with diffuser into a location that's wired for a light fixture. It wires direction into the junction box that the light fixture used to be wired into. LEDs are mounted across the disc, and because LEDs are very thin, the whole fixture only sticks out about half an inch from the ceiling. Once installed, it looks like it's a recessed light with a diffuser, even though it's really just a half-inch-thick LED light disc, rather than a recessed light that sticks up into the ceiling.The light is is very even. I can't tell there are individual LEDs mounted on the disc even when I look directly at it. The light is quite bright -- to my eye, it seems to create about the same brightness as a 75-100w light in a recessed can. The light is more directional than a flush-mount fixture, since there's little light cast to the side. The down-light effect works great in the hallway locations where I've installed them.Installation was a breeze. I installed two in our hallway (including removing the old, heavy flush-mount fixtures) in about 20 minutes. To install, you fit a mounting plate onto your junction box, connect three wires (black, white, ground), then push the fixture up onto the mounting plate. The wires and LED driver tuck up into the junction box. The fixture is held onto the mounting plate by a couple of spring steel clips. The fixture is extremely light, so installing is considerably easier than with old-fashioned fixtures.The fixture draws only about 12w and runs significantly cooler than a traditional fixture with a couple of 60w bulbs, so it doesn't need all the layers of insulation that old flush-mount fixtures have. And since it's almost completely flush with the ceiling, it makes our hallway ceilings look higher. Best of all, because it uses so little electricity, I don't have to feel guilty about leaving the hallway lights on, which is nice for both safety and comfort.I initially bought two of these for a downstairs hallway, but have subsequently ordered five more for other locations. I've long wanted to replace the flush mount ceiling light fixtures around our house, but installing recessed lights was too much of a hassle. This light does the same thing without the hassle, and it has the added benefit of using about 80% less electricity. I normally don't get too excited about lighting products, but the engineers at Philips really did come up with a great innovation when they dreamed up this LED fixture.

This light really looks good. Installation was very simple. It throws a lot of light but I'm still going to add a second one in our hallway to even things out. I also put a dimmer switch on it.

Nice light, slim design.however, watch out the small transformer in the back needs at least 2 inch deep octagonal box.

Really like these lights. Flush to the ceiling and better energy savings.

Quality, and Union made.