Sigma UD-01SO USB Dock for Sony A Lens Bayonet

This is a very useful tool for Sigma zoom lens, or for any Sigma lens if your DLSR does not have AF microadjustment. I will answer several questions which you probably are asking yourself:1. Which one to get? "Sigma USB Dock for Canon" means a USB dock for Sigma lenses with Canon mount, i.e, lenses designed to work with Canon cameras. If you own a Canon camera, buy a Sigma USB dock for Canon. If you own a Nikon camera, buy a USB dock for Nikon. Do not forget that this dock only works with Sigma lenses, and only with selected Sigma lenses.2. Does it work with all Sigma lenses? NO! It only only with most Contemporary, Sport and Art series lenses. Sigma web site has up-to-date list of compatible lenses. Search for for "Sigma USB Dock" on Sigma web site, or go to Sigmaphoto web site and navigate from Home to Accessories -> Lens Accessories -> Category: Miscellaneous -> Sigma USB Dock. There, you will find the list of about 26 lenses supported by the dock, a link to download the free software, and link to tutorials. Scroll all the way down to the bottom of that page, below the table with compatible lenses, to find the link to the manual.3. Does not work with Nikon or Canon brand lenses? NO WAY! The dock is just the means for the Sigma software to talk to the electronics in the Sigma lenses. It only works with Sigma brand lenses, and only with selected ones, which have this capability.4. What is lens autofocus (AF) adjustment? Most DSLRs, with the exception of mirrorless ones, have a separate sensor for autofocus. It is possible and happens quite often that due to tolerances in manufacturing of camera bodies (and lenses), the focus which appears to be perfect to the autofocus system turns out to be slightly out of focus on the image sensor. There are two way to adjust for it. High end DLSRs have a so called "AF micro adjustment" (the exact term for it depends on the DSLR brand). This adjustment in the camera itself can even be lens-specific, i.e., you can program your high end camera body with individual AF adjustments for each lens you own. Sigma went one step further, they included AF adjustment into software/firmware of their lenses and provided an option to use different adjustments for different focal lengths. This works great with long range zoom lenses, which may front-focus on low end of the zoom range and back focus on the high end, or the other way around. You get multiple adjustment points instead of a single one on a camera body.5. What does this USB dock do? It enables you to update lens's firmware and to program autofocus correction factors into the lens. It is just an interface between your lens and your computer. Basically, it is a dummy plug which matches your camera brand's mount with contacts to connect to contacts of the lens and with a USB interface.6. Is calibration done automatically? How long does it take? Unfortunately, it is a tedious manual work. The dock is just an interface between your computer and lens's firmware. You do all the work and then use the dock to upload updated parameters into the lens. The dock does not measure anything and does not calibrate anything on its own. You buy a focusing target, install the free Sigma software (free download from Sigma web site), connect your lens, write down the focal lengths and distances from the table provided in the software, then grab your camera, set it on tripod, set it to center point AF, single shot AF, center point metering, set up the camera at one of the four distances listed in the Sigma software (you cannot change those, they are given to you), and take picture of the focusing target for each of the zooms listed in the table (if applicable to your lens) and each of the distances. If it is a single focal length zoom, you will only take 4 images from different distances. If it is a zoom lens, you may have to take as many as 16 images, a matrix of four focal lengths and four distances from the target. Then, you download images from the camera and examine them closely on the computer screen. The AF target has a tilted scale (looks like a ruler) which enables you to make a judgement where the best focus is - is it right at the center, where the focusing plate is, or is it behind the area which you focused on, or in front of it, and by how much the center of the area which is in good focus is shifted relatively to "zero". It is fairly easy to see. Once you've done it, the next step is to enter some numbers into the table in Sigma software. The numbers are in focus units, not in cm or inches. They probably are just steps of the stepping motor in the lens. They do not directly correlate with distances and Sigma does not provide any guidance as to how to correlate what you see in the pictures with required changes to focus parameters. All you know that you should increase the focusing parameter in a positive direction, e.g., from 0 to 5 (the total range of adjustment is from -20 to +20) if your camera front-focuses and you want to move the focal plane further away from the camera, and reduce it (e.g., from 0 to -5) if your camera back-focuses and you need to bring the focal point closer to the camera. Basically, you end up doing bracketing through several iterations, first making large steps and then smaller steps to dial the focus in. With my lens (Sigma 18-300), a focus step was roughly matching 1/2 of a centimeter on the inclined ruler of the focusing target with shorter distances between the lens and the target, but this is a very rough guideline. If you see that focus is off center, change the parameter by 5 units in the proper direction and check in the next round of measurements if this was enough. If not, change again and take more pictures. If you went too far, take a smaller step back. Repeat until you are satisfied. In my case, with Sigma 18-30, it took about 5 hours for 6 iterations for my son and I to complete the task to a reasonable level of satisfaction.7. How do I know that I need to calibrate my Sigma lens? The indications are: soft focus across the whole range, or on the high or low end of the zoom range. Images come with sharp areas not quite where you focused on, i.e., on something a little closer to you or a little further from you than the focal point. Also, if your camera has "live view" (which is focusing using image sensor instead of autofocus sensor), you can compare images taken in live view and in standard mode. If live view images are noticeably sharper, your AF requires tuning.8. Where to find more information on how to do it? Sigma has a manual for the software (fairly lousy, I must say) and a tutorial video. I found videos posted by Digital Goja very helpful. Those can be found by Googling for "Dijital Goja Sigma USB dock video". Finally, an article which can be found by its title, "Lens Calibration Explained" (just copy this into Google) was very useful to me to understand what I was supposed to do and why. This article does not explain the Sigma USB dock (instead, it discusses adjustments of AF on the camera body), but is very helpful to understand the rest of the process and tools needed.9. Do I need anything else, beyond the Dock? You need a DSLRKIT or any other lens focus calibration tool. You can get it from Amazon for $6 - $9, or even download drawings from the Internet and make a target from cardboard at zero cost. You need a tripod to mount your camera. You need a source of bright light to illuminate your target if you do it indoors (you can do it outside and use sunlight). You need a tape measure to measure distance from the target to the camera. Finally, for measurements with "Infinity" distance, you need to find something relatively small across the street, like a house number or something. With "Infinity", there is no inclined ruler on the focusing target to access where the focal point is, you go by sequential trial of several settings and comparison of images.10. How do I deal with measurements at "Infinity"? I just took pictures at several values of parameters entered into Sigma sofware (like 0 , 5, and 10) and compared the pictures, to find the sharpest. You cannot use the target at Infinity (they are too small - of course you can make your own giant one!), and might struggle at 20 feet, too. Just take pictures of something with sharp contrast and small to medium features at several focus correction parameter values, compare them, and identify the best sharpness setting.11. Is the process of calibration worth it? If you suspect that your lens is not a sharp as it should be, this USB dock will take your lens to the next level. The difference is between you being frustrated about your purchase and being happy. At least, this is how I felt before and after calibration. I changed from "I may have to return this lens, my cell phone shoots much sharper pictures" to "It works very well" within 5 hours. Some vendors sell USB Dock in package with Sigma lenses.12. What is in the box? USB dock, a USB cable, warranty card, and some kind of manual which I did not even open.13. How to set the camera for shooting test images? Very important! Single point (center) AF. Center point metering. Single shot AF. ISO set to a low value, e.g., 100 or 200 to reduce noise in the images (helps to see the sharpness level better). Shoot in Aperture priority mode with F-stop set to the lowest possible value allowed by the lens for a given focal length.14. Which Sigma lenses benefit most from AF tuning? Long range zoom lenses (which may back-focus on one end of the zoom range and front-focuse on the other end) and very bright lenses with very low values of F stop, like 1.2 or 1.5, which have a very shallow depth of focus.15. Do only Sigma lenses require tuning of autofocus? Apparently, no. Apparently, all lenses of all brands can benefit from it. All pro level cameras have a single-parameter AF tuning built into the DSLR bodies. Sigma is different in that it took one extra step forward and created a solution for tuning across the whole range of zoom. This increases the precision of tuning. No other manufacturer offers USB dock for lenses. Sigma dock does not work with any other brands of lenses. Not even with older Sigma lenses. It is a very new technology.16. Do I need to have a Pro level Camera to feel the difference, or need to use a USB Dock? As I learned it hard way, it is just the other way around: if you have an entry or mid level camera (I bought Canon Rebel T7i) which does not have a micro adjustment of autofocus, tuning of the lens with USB dock is the only option, short of replacing the lens over and over again until you find the best match to your body. It is a combination of body and the lens that determines sharpness. The same lens may be perfectly sharp on DSLR body A and not sharp on DLSR body B. Go figure.17. Is it just the lens that determines if focus needs be tuned? No, it is a combination of the lens and the body. The thing is, most DSLR (with the exception of mirrorless DSLRs, which never need focus tuning) have a separate sensor for autofocusing, with an additional mirror which redirects the light from the lens to the autofocus sensor instead of the image sensor. If the distance which light has to travel to the autofocus sensor is different than the distance to the image sensor, just by a tiny amount, the AF sensor will decide that the image is perfectly focused, but the image sensor will see a blurry image. Lens might also have manufacturing tolerances which could contribute to operation of autofocus. The end result depends on combination of individual parameters of lens and body. Lens A may be super sharp on body X but not on body Y.18. If I have a micro-AF adjustment on my DSLR, do I need to use the Sigma Dock with my Sigma lens in addition to adjustment on the body? MAYBE. The best way to find out is to try. If you can achieve good result with adjustment on the body, no need to bother with USB dock. With a zoom lens, you will find that you have more flexibility with tuning the focus for different focal lengths and for different distances to the target using a Sigma Dock.18. Final comments. Some vendors include USB dock in a package with Sigma lens. This way, one can get it at no or little added cost. It is beneficial to get a dock along with your compatible Sigma lens, then to find out that you need it as an after-fact. Tuning the focus with Sigma Dock does not void the warranty and is fully reversible. There is a button in the software to go back to factory defaults (which coincidentally are all zeros). Sigma Dock is also useful as it enables you to update lens firmware whenever a new version of firmware becomes available. You need only one dock for all of your dock-compatible Sigma lenses.

I made a choice to purchase a used Sigma 24-105mm f/4 lens off eBay. Shortly after obtaining the lens did I realize why the price was so low and the lens barely used - focus was off and inconsistently so at different focal lengths. I beat myself up over this mistake for a couple of weeks.Trying to update using camera AF adjustment (D7200 and D750) wasn’t helpful as at times I found myself at the maximum adjustment and still not happy and also that same adjustment not working for all focal lengths and distances.Researching this dock I wasn’t certain it would fix everything, but I decided to give it a try since the cost was less than buying a new lens and trying to sell a known poor lens to someone else (ethics!).To make a long story short it worked and for this lens I only have a +1 focus adjustment in camera, the rest is all done through the dock adjustments. Now I can use this lens with confidence knowing that at all focal lengths and distances it will focus accurately.The long story is how much effort is required to adjust the lens. A large zoom range lens like the 24-105mm will take a couple of hours, but the process is much simpler than you might have read about and I have a couple tips on how to make this faster.The real issue is whether you have one focal length or focal distance that requires a camera based focus adjustment. So in my case I went through most of the lengths and distances only to find one dock adjustment was at the max and still out of focus. I had to make a camera adjustment then go back and redo all the adjustments I hade made already. It got easier and faster the second time though.I STRONGLY advise you use these techniques to make this easier and faster:1) Use continuous auto focus (AF-C)2) Use single point focus and use only the center point3) You DO NOT need to take pictures to make adjustments. Sounds crazy but it’s true. You must have a good flat target (I printed a test target off the Internet) and start with live view focus (contrast detection). If live view says the target is in focus then it means the focus is correct on the sensor. This is your baseline. Make sure the contrast box in live view and the phase detect sensor selected line up on exactly the same part of your target. Now turn off live view and press the button to focus, but not shoot, while staring at the focus window on the lens. Watch which way it goes and how far it goes before is stops and stays stopped. Since you have AF-C set, if it won’t stop it means you don’t have enough light or enough contrast in your target. Repeat the live view focus then phase detect at least 5 times in a row so you figure out how far off you are, sometimes it won’t move the same amount. Do this for all focal lengths at your current focus distance, and take notes! Put on the dock and adjust + or - depending on how far you think. Remount and test out.4) There is no science to the adjustments, you will get a feel for it. Forget what you read about 2:1 Nikon to dock relationship. I tried that and wasted an additional hour trying to make that work before I found out it wasn’t applicable.5) Adjustments at one focus distance may affect other focus distances. Once you have completed all adjustments go back and check again. I did and made smaller adjustments the final pass.6) Don’t stress about exact distances. The dock doesn’t even have exact distances marked and what is marked are in fractions of inches. Just get close and your adjustments will work.7) Don’t take pictures to test during adjustment. I’m saying it twice because I’m serious. If your phase detect focus matches your live view focus then you are exact!8) You won’t always be exactly on focus. Realize that being a little off will have no effect because: depth of field. 105mm at f/4 at 20 feet has OVER ONE FOOT of depth of field, so if you’re off by a few inches it will never matter.9) If you didn’t understand any of this you aren’t ready to use this dock, upskill yourself and read your camera manual so you can really get this right.It’s a long and stressful process and I hope my tips help make this easier and faster for you. I wish Sigma lenses had more reliable focus out of the factory. I am relieved that I was able to turn a lousy lens into a useable lens.

In short this item fixes lens problems and is a great bit of kit.I bought the 18-35 and 50-100 for use with my 80d. I nearly sent it all back as I couldn't take a sharp photo anywhere near wide open. I researched into it and found there was a problem with sigma lenses and new canon dslr crop bodies with the dual pixel AF. So i bought this to make micro adjustments to the focal point.You plug this item in to the computer and lens and the software loads. You then have the option to calibrate the focus point on four different distances per focal length. My zoom lenses had four focal lengths each, so all in all i had to complete 32 calibrations (its tedious hence the four stars).I got a cardboard DSLRKIT Lens Focus Calibration Tool for a few pound from amazon. I stuck it down to a table mat to keep it fixed down. I put the camera on a tripod and raised it to line up with the centre of the calibration tool. I placed the camera away from the tool, the distance dictated by the software, having measured with a tape measure from the 0 on the tool to the sensor on the camera body (which should be marked out). I then auto focussed and took a picture (nb it needs to be well lit in order for the autofocus to work correctly). I dismounted the lens, uploaded the picture and checked the focus point. All were well out, so I'd then move the slider in the software in the corresponding direction depending on if it was front or back focussing. This is trail and error, but you save the new settings, disaassemble and retake the shot, then repeat until all distances and focal lenghts are shap at the 0. (I took at least 3 pictures for each of the 32 to attain shaprness, sometimes several more). It takes ages!An important tip. When focussed lenses will have some distance in front of the focal point sharp and some distance behind sharp. The distance in focus will be effected by the depth of field BUT the ratio will remain 1/3rd in front to 2/3rds behind. So when using this the 0 will be sharp as will a few lines either side. Aim for 2/3rds behind and 1/3rd infront. trying to get the front and back eqidistant will result in losing sharpness on the 0. - If that made sense!

Dieses USB-Dock funktioniert nur mit Sigma A, C und S Objektiven! Ich berichte über meine Erfahrungen mit dem Dock und dem Sigma 35mm ART und versuche etwas die Vorgehensweise beim Kalibieren des AF zu erläutern.Ich habe das USB-Dock kurz nach dem Kauf eines Sigma 35mm f1.4 für die Nikon D7000 angeschafft. Das Sigma 35mm f1.4 hatte leider einen Frontfokus. Nun gab es 3 Optionen: Gewährleistung nutzen und umtauschen, Garantie nutzen und einschicken oder das USB-Dock kaufen und selbst kalibrieren.Das Dock war die Wahl, denn das Dock kann bzw. wird auch in der Zukunft noch sinnvoll sein und gewinnt an Sinn je mehr Objektive von Sigma angeschafft werden.Mit dem Sigma-Dock können an einer Brennweite 4 Entfernungen verstellt und kalibriert werden. Bei dem Sigma 35mm f1.4 liegen diese bei 0,3m, 0,4m, 0,6m und unendlich.Bei einem Zoom-Objektiv gibt es für mehrere Brennweiten diese Option. Für das Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 können so jeweils 4 Entfernungen bei einer Brennweite von 18, 24, 28 und 35mm kalibriert werden.Klingt nach viel Aufwand und das ist es auch. Das Objektiv muss nach jedem Test von der Kamera genommen werden und wieder mit dem Dock verbunden werden. Das muss aber eigentlich nur einmal mit jedem Objektiv gemacht werden und das Resultat ist ein verlässliches Objektiv.Es gibt 2 sinnvolle Variante der Kalibrierung, die auch beliebig kombiniert werden können:1) Abgleich von Phasen-AF und Kontrast-AF2) Abgleich mit einer Fokus-Skala (einfach mal in der Suchmaschine suchen)Alles sollte mit Offenblende und mit Einzel-AF bzw. Single Autofocus gemacht werden! Eine gute Ausleuchtung ist ebenfalls hilfreich.1) Das Prinzip ist simpel. Im Liveview einer DSLR wird nur der Kontrast-AF verwendet und funktioniert anders als der Phasen-AF. Der Kontrast-AF hat zwar seine Nachteile, hat aber in dem Fall den Vorteil, dass es keinen Back- oder Frontfokus gibt. Es wird ledeglich der kontrastreichste (-> schärfste) Punkt über der Verschiebung des Fokuspunktes ermittelt. Normalerweise ist der Kontrast-AF 100% zuverlässig bei unbewegten Objekten mit Kontrast.Man sucht sich ein Objekt mit Kontrast und führt die Kalibierung daran durch. Das kann z.B. ein Bücherregel sein, eine Wand mit Muster oder ein A4 Papier mit Fokustest sein.Nun sucht man mit dem Liveview an einer DSLR den gewünschten Abstand auf der Fokusskala des Objektivs, der im Sigma-Dock angegeben wird (z.B. 0,3m). Jetzt wird per Kontrast-AF im Liveview scharf gestellt und anschließend im normalen Modus mit dem Phasen-AF fokussiert ohne die Postion zu ändern!Wenn sich die Skala auf dem Objektiv nun nach rechts bewegt, dann gibt es einen Backfokus und wenn es sich nach links bewegt, dann gibt es einen Frontfokus.im Sigma-Dock muss jetzt der Korrekturwert angegeben werden. Hier ist ausprobieren gefragt, denn es gibt leider keine genau Angabe, wie groß die Schritte sind!Bei einem Frontfokus muss der Regler in den Plusbereich geschoben werden und bei einem Backfokus in den Minusbereich.Das geht solange bis sich der Fokus nicht mehr verändert und beide AF-Varianten übereinstimmen.Für die Einstellung unendlich sollte sich ein kontrastreiches Objekt in 50 Meter Entfernung gesucht werden. Ein Haus, eine Baumgruppe etcDie Vorgehensweise bleibt die gleiche.2) Die andere Variante funktioniert über eine Fokus-Skala, die es zu kaufen gibt oder sich auch im Internet zum Ausdrucken finden lässt. Die genaue Vorgehensweise wird dort oft genau erläutern und deswegen werde ich hier nicht weiter darauf eingehen.Im Prinzip wird nur auf einen Punkt fokussiert und dann anhand der Skala (z.B. einem Lineal) geschaut, ob der Fokus vom Nullpunkt abweicht.Das ist eine der Varianten, die sehr häufig verwendet wird und auch zur Überprüfung des AF sehr zuverlässig funktioniert.Noch einige Worte zum USB-Dock selbst:Allgemein und Postitv:DIe Funktionalität ist super. Es wäre natürlich schön, wenn die Objektive sofort funktionieren würden aber zumindestens gibt es diese Möglichkeit und mit dem Besitz eines Docks verfliegt auch etwas der Ärger darüber. Es ist leider nicht sicher, dass der AF immer an jeder Kamera funktioniert oder auch in der Zukunft funktionieren wird.Die Software funktioniert auf Windows 10 ohne Probleme und die Übertragung der Daten an das Objektiv hat bisher ohne Probleme funktioniert.In dem Fall scheint alles sehr ausgereift zu sein.Das mechanische Anschließen des Objektivs funktioniert ebenfalls ohne Probleme.Die großen Nachteile sind eindeutig:- Die fehlende Dokumentation. Es gibt nahezu überhaupt keine Informationen über die Vorgehensweise oder die Erläuterung von bestimmten Funktionen. Diese Informationen müssen erst vom Nutzer im Internet gesammelt werden. Aus diesem Grund ist die Software auch nicht intuitiv.- Die Suche nach der Firmware.. Das USB-Dock sucht jedes, JEDES mal nach einer Firmware, sobald das Objektiv angeschlossen wird. Diese Funktion lässt sich nicht abstellen und wenn so ein Objektiv gerade kalibriert wird, dann wird das Objektiv eben auch 10x angeschlossen. Also sucht die Software 10x für einige Sekunden nach einer Firmware..Ich möchte nicht wissen wie lange das Ganze ohne Internet dauert und dieses Feature nervt so richtig. Für das Sigma 35mm f1.4 ART gab es in 3 Jahren auch nur 2 Updates. Dementsprechend ist das doch sehr unnötig.

This arrived yesterday, and although I’m only half way through setting up the lens (a Sigma 18-300), it’s already well worth reviewing. I also bought one of the cheap calibration charts a while ago, and having tried to adjust focus via the in-camera settings on my EOS 70D, I wasn’t at all impressed with the results. This is a different story.One thing to bear in mind with this tool is that it takes a LOOOOOOOONG time to do the adjustments, as to do it properly there are 16 different zoom/distance calibrations to do, and unless you shoot tethered (I don’t) you will be removing the lens and card after every shot, and probably taking a minimum of five shots per calibration unless you get lucky. I’ve spent 3 hours this afternoon and I’m only half way through the settings. You also need good light, so either a very well-lit house (with a decent length room), or a windless bright day outdoors so that your tripod is stable.All of the above is worth it though. The lens is. now so much sharper across the range, and if I left it as it is, I would be more than happy, but I’m going to complete the job tomorrow as every length/distance so far has needed a minimum of three “clicks” of adjustment.Quite what I’ll do with the dock after I’ve finished is anyone’s guess (my other lenses aren’t Sigma), but even if I never use it again, it was well worth the money.

Bought the sigma 150mm - 600mm and nearly sent it back because the AF was so slow.Bought this and updated the firmware instead, made all the difference in the world.Pictures alot sharper and AF alot faster.Very easy to use.Plug it in, click a few buttons.

The Sigma USB Dock Mount for Nikon Lens is an interesting widget for sure! On one hand, you have to ask yourself is it really required? On the other hand, it's an absolute god send and why hasn't the big players like Canon and Nikon joined the band wagon?I do not use the Sigma USB Dock Mount to fine tune my camera / lens combo; I use another program for this. I do however use the Sigma USB Dock Mount to dial in my lenses to suit my specific requirements. And that, is one of the reasons I like Sigma lens so much. I could use the Nikon range like everybody else, but Nikon lenses are not programable. And there in lies my problem.My advice, do your homework and decide if the dock meets your requirements. If you are looking to fine tune your Sigma lens' there are other options available. If you are looking to lock them into how you shoot, the dock is the go to widget.Personally, I wouldn't be without mine.