---
product_id: 260188292
title: "Kohler GP1083167 Fill Valve for all Class 5"
brand: "kohler"
price: "¥9236"
currency: JPY
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 5
category: "Kohler"
url: https://www.desertcart.jp/products/260188292-kohler-gp1083167-fill-valve-for-all-class-5
store_origin: JP
region: Japan
---

# Easy installation, no plumber needed Adjustable fill valve for perfect fit Durable OEM part for long-lasting performance Kohler GP1083167 Fill Valve for all Class 5

**Brand:** kohler
**Price:** ¥9236
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🚽 Upgrade your flush game with Kohler’s trusted fill valve!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Kohler GP1083167 Fill Valve for all Class 5 by kohler
- **How much does it cost?** ¥9236 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.jp](https://www.desertcart.jp/products/260188292-kohler-gp1083167-fill-valve-for-all-class-5)

## Best For

- kohler enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted kohler brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Built to Last:** Robust plastic construction resists wear and leaks, saving you future headaches
- • **Universal Compatibility:** Fits all Class 5 toilets with black shank—no guesswork needed
- • **Kohler Genuine OEM Quality:** Protect your warranty and ensure peak reliability with authentic parts
- • **Hassle-Free DIY Installation:** Designed for quick setup—get it done in minutes without professional help
- • **Precision Adjustable Fill Valve:** Customize water flow effortlessly for optimal toilet performance

## Overview

The Kohler GP1083167 Fill Valve is a durable, adjustable replacement part engineered for all Class 5 toilets with a black shank. This genuine OEM valve ensures easy installation, maintains original product performance, and protects your Kohler warranty. Lightweight and built to last, it’s the smart choice for hassle-free toilet maintenance.

## Description

Protect the warranty on Kohler products, always look for the Kohler Genuine Parts logo. This fill valve was designed by Kohler engineers to maintain original product performance and promote product longevity. Replace your old or leaky fill valve with an OEM Kohler part.

Review: Direct replacement for a Kohler toilet - Recently my toilet started barely refilling its tank after a flush. It would take 30-40 minutes to refill and I could hear the water just barely trickling in. I could sometimes get it to work correctly again by shutting off the supply valve and then turning it on again so I suspected a bit of debris or lime scale stuck in the valve that would occasionally work its way loose. I took it apart to clean it and discovered that the rubber diaphragm at the top of the valve was broken and slowly disintegrating into black rubber dust. The chlorine in the water supply keeps bacteria from growing, but it sure is hard on plastic and rubber plumbing parts. I cross-referenced the number on the valve and eventually came up with this part. For less than $20 I had it on my doorstep in a couple of days. Installation was a breeze. The hardest part was making sure I didn't leak water all over the floor. I shut off the supply valve and flushed the toilet until I couldn't get any more water out of the tank, then I used a small battery-powered pump to drain the rest of the tank's contents into the bowl. A dollar-store turkey baster is slower but also works-- just don't use it in the kitchen after. Or you can just put a small basin or bowl on the ground to catch the water when you remove the valve. Some will probably spill so it's a good idea to get as much out of the tank as you can first. You can install this valve with a single large adjustable wrench, but it's better if you use two. I used silicone grease on all the rubber parts (the seal inside the tank as well as the one in the supply line), and I put a very thin film on the threads of the valve body itself. Silicone grease keeps the rubber components from binding and tearing on reassembly and also keeps the plastic threads from galling or seizing over time. You have to adjust the height of the valve as well as the float. In my case, I just matched them to my old valve. The instructions for setting the height are pretty clear. You must also install the correct fill rate restrictor. They are color coded so I just used the same color that was on my original valve (red in my case). Installation took about 10 minutes. When I was done I turned the supply valve back on and the tank refilled completely in a minute or two. A couple of test flushes later and I could see that the new fill valve was working correctly. Problem solved. If you're handy with tools, this is a repair that you can easily perform yourself in less than a half hour. I don't know what a service call costs for a plumber nowadays but I can't imagine it would be less than $100 and I'm guessing closer to $150. Immediately after I installed this valve, I bought another to keep in stock. If (when) the rubber valve seal breaks again, I'll be able to swap it out. I keep this valve, a flush valve, and a couple of flush valve seals in stock so I can fix almost anything that goes wrong, even if it's the middle of the night. If you can turn a wrench, you can too. UPDATE: Like clockwork, another toilet valve failed in the same way as the first (torn rubber piece preventing it from filling). This time I had a replacement fill valve on the shelf and installed it in less than 20 minutes. Here's a hint. If you shut off the water and flush the toilet several times, you can empty most but not all of the tank. There will still be about an inch left in the bottom. I used a small 12V DC pump and some vinyl tubing to empty the rest of the tank into the toilet bowl. That way, the little bit of water that spilled when I removed the fill valve could easily be caught by a towel. The pump that I used is PN 1J5955651, which is a washer pump for a BMW or VW. I bought it a long time ago for another project that stalled and I've used it ever since as a small utility pump. I power it with an 18V cordless tool battery. It isn't really happy with 50% more voltage going to it, but I've done it a few times now and it keeps working. It cost less than $10 here on desertcart at the time but now goes for about $12. Maybe not worth buying just for one job, but I had all this stuff laying around so I was able to improvise. The install was uneventful. Like before, I used silicone grease on the threads and seals, but this isn't necessary. A couple of adjustable wrenches and a large set of water pump pliers (IE Channellocks) were all that I needed to do this job. As soon as I was done, I ordered yet another valve to keep on the shelf, just in case. For the price, I'd rather have it in stock and ready to go.
Review: Excelente producto - En México solo hay un distribuidor de Kohler, fui a buscar este artículo, no lo tenían, era más costoso pedirlo, podía tardar hasta 3 semanas en llegar, con desertcart me llegó en sólo días. Solo asegurarse que es la pieza indicada, hay dos, está es de tubo negro y hay una gris para otro tipo de sanitario. Fácil de instalar. Es la primera vez que cambio esta pieza en un sanitario que tiene 7 años funcionando, espero me dure lo mismo :)

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| Brand | Kohler |
| Exterior finish | Gemalt |
| Inlet connection size | 1 Inches |
| Inlet connection type | Female Iron Pipe |
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 29.8 x 9.5 x 7.6 centimeters |
| Material | Plastic |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Kohler
- **Exterior finish:** Gemalt
- **Inlet connection size:** 1 Inches
- **Item dimensions L x W x H:** 29.8 x 9.5 x 7.6 centimeters
- **Material:** Plastic

## Images

![Kohler GP1083167 Fill Valve for all Class 5 - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61hkziyCxyL.jpg)
![Kohler GP1083167 Fill Valve for all Class 5 - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71-y-MOyXjL.jpg)
![Kohler GP1083167 Fill Valve for all Class 5 - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61ub5GMEXEL.jpg)
![Kohler GP1083167 Fill Valve for all Class 5 - Image 4](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71v+t5oq0ML.jpg)
![Kohler GP1083167 Fill Valve for all Class 5 - Image 5](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61wQdH9N0YL.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: My Fill valve does not turn off completely.Response from Kohler said to take red cap off and purge water through it.  Anyone know what this means? All seals new and not leaking.**
A: I used this tech tip to fix mine. It worked! My issue was related to calcium buildup under the yellow (or red for some) cap. I just scraped away the buildup, flushed it per Kohler video listed above and reassembled. Fixed! I am on well water... so my calcium levels were high before adding my water softener.

**Q: How tall is this piece?  I need 9” one**
A: It is adjustable. Set your height as you need.

**Q: I am looking to replace a Fill Valve that has a yellow cap and the part number is 1188946. Is this the correct replacement part?**
A: I looked at the old one and it had a number on the top, if the numbers match it will work

**Q: Where is this fill valve (GP1083167) made?**
A: Socrates:
Wrong answer. You should be answering the question asked. Don't you hate it when someone "attacks" you in their response?

I am not certain where it is made but I'd be surprised if it was somewhere other than ChAsia or Mexico. 

My history of life with these, fwiw:
It appears to be a (copy of a/the ?) Fluidmaster (style) fill valve. I have replaced the arm float ball cock fill valves with a/various Fluidmaster unit in my rentals since 2000 or 2001 and remain very satisfied with them and their life. 
I have replaced the "rubber" washer/disk/valve when needed while also scrubbing/cleaning/wiping the seats (mating surfaces) of that disk AND the float of all scum/deposits that weigh it down and alter the fill level/boyancy.  
It IS often possible to clean that disk, the seats, and the float to obtain at the least a temporary fix; a NICE option when the valve is "screaming" or "whistling" and you can't immediately replace it.  Yes, there have been a few times when a new disk and through cleaning didn't solve the problem/leak and I replaced the entire fill valve. 

Life is good!

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Direct replacement for a Kohler toilet
*by Z***L on 2 July 2024*

Recently my toilet started barely refilling its tank after a flush. It would take 30-40 minutes to refill and I could hear the water just barely trickling in. I could sometimes get it to work correctly again by shutting off the supply valve and then turning it on again so I suspected a bit of debris or lime scale stuck in the valve that would occasionally work its way loose. I took it apart to clean it and discovered that the rubber diaphragm at the top of the valve was broken and slowly disintegrating into black rubber dust. The chlorine in the water supply keeps bacteria from growing, but it sure is hard on plastic and rubber plumbing parts. I cross-referenced the number on the valve and eventually came up with this part. For less than $20 I had it on my doorstep in a couple of days. Installation was a breeze. The hardest part was making sure I didn't leak water all over the floor. I shut off the supply valve and flushed the toilet until I couldn't get any more water out of the tank, then I used a small battery-powered pump to drain the rest of the tank's contents into the bowl. A dollar-store turkey baster is slower but also works-- just don't use it in the kitchen after. Or you can just put a small basin or bowl on the ground to catch the water when you remove the valve. Some will probably spill so it's a good idea to get as much out of the tank as you can first. You can install this valve with a single large adjustable wrench, but it's better if you use two. I used silicone grease on all the rubber parts (the seal inside the tank as well as the one in the supply line), and I put a very thin film on the threads of the valve body itself. Silicone grease keeps the rubber components from binding and tearing on reassembly and also keeps the plastic threads from galling or seizing over time. You have to adjust the height of the valve as well as the float. In my case, I just matched them to my old valve. The instructions for setting the height are pretty clear. You must also install the correct fill rate restrictor. They are color coded so I just used the same color that was on my original valve (red in my case). Installation took about 10 minutes. When I was done I turned the supply valve back on and the tank refilled completely in a minute or two. A couple of test flushes later and I could see that the new fill valve was working correctly. Problem solved. If you're handy with tools, this is a repair that you can easily perform yourself in less than a half hour. I don't know what a service call costs for a plumber nowadays but I can't imagine it would be less than $100 and I'm guessing closer to $150. Immediately after I installed this valve, I bought another to keep in stock. If (when) the rubber valve seal breaks again, I'll be able to swap it out. I keep this valve, a flush valve, and a couple of flush valve seals in stock so I can fix almost anything that goes wrong, even if it's the middle of the night. If you can turn a wrench, you can too. UPDATE: Like clockwork, another toilet valve failed in the same way as the first (torn rubber piece preventing it from filling). This time I had a replacement fill valve on the shelf and installed it in less than 20 minutes. Here's a hint. If you shut off the water and flush the toilet several times, you can empty most but not all of the tank. There will still be about an inch left in the bottom. I used a small 12V DC pump and some vinyl tubing to empty the rest of the tank into the toilet bowl. That way, the little bit of water that spilled when I removed the fill valve could easily be caught by a towel. The pump that I used is PN 1J5955651, which is a washer pump for a BMW or VW. I bought it a long time ago for another project that stalled and I've used it ever since as a small utility pump. I power it with an 18V cordless tool battery. It isn't really happy with 50% more voltage going to it, but I've done it a few times now and it keeps working. It cost less than $10 here on Amazon at the time but now goes for about $12. Maybe not worth buying just for one job, but I had all this stuff laying around so I was able to improvise. The install was uneventful. Like before, I used silicone grease on the threads and seals, but this isn't necessary. A couple of adjustable wrenches and a large set of water pump pliers (IE Channellocks) were all that I needed to do this job. As soon as I was done, I ordered yet another valve to keep on the shelf, just in case. For the price, I'd rather have it in stock and ready to go.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Excelente producto
*by M***Z on 14 April 2019*

En México solo hay un distribuidor de Kohler, fui a buscar este artículo, no lo tenían, era más costoso pedirlo, podía tardar hasta 3 semanas en llegar, con Amazon me llegó en sólo días. Solo asegurarse que es la pieza indicada, hay dos, está es de tubo negro y hay una gris para otro tipo de sanitario. Fácil de instalar. Es la primera vez que cambio esta pieza en un sanitario que tiene 7 años funcionando, espero me dure lo mismo :)

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Good quality, value for money.
*by P***E on 5 January 2024*

German quality at its best.

## Frequently Bought Together

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*Product available on Desertcart Japan*
*Store origin: JP*
*Last updated: 2026-08-02*