Rockler Router Table w/ 28” ProFence and Plate, Cast Iron Top (40-120)

Previously, I had the Bench Dog router table/cabinet and was looking to create more shop space by using this on my Jet Supersaw instead of a dedicated router table. It fits the bill perfectly. I am using this with a Porter Cable router, fits the base of my router perfectly and is predrilled for my adjustment wrench. The router fence is movable and comes with a dust collection port. The mitre slots fit my guides perfectly. I would recommend adding a second base to your router and mounting it permanently, this allows you to slide the router in whenver you want to use it without the hassle of remounting the base to the plate. Pros - Router plate can be leveled perfectly with about 10 adjustment points. - Adjustable width fence, locks in place, good dust collection. - Super heavy...when added to my saw, there is very little vibration which makes for precise routing work. (Of course, the saw itself is heavy, but the router table makes it moreso. - Typical Bench Dog quality - I have always been pleased with their products. Cons - Super heavy...difficult to mount by yourself but I was able to make it happen using clamps. If you don't have a jack stand, you will need a second set of hands. - Does not come with a router mounting plate (add $55 or so). I had planned on transferring my old Bench Dog mounting plate but it would not fit by about 1/16th of an inch. Make sure you order when you order the top.

Bar none the best extension router table on the market. I had it installed on my Porter Cable table saw for 2 years and it worked very well. The installation was very simple and I saved tons of space because of the small footprint. I conserved space by combining the table saw without adding a separate router station. Unfortunately, I had to get rid of my porter cable saw, but this router extension as long as you keep it waxed holds up so well. I was able to sell mine for around the same price I purchased it for. This thing holds it's value because it's well made and super convenient to have. I miss having it around, but I had to change locations and had to down size.

Truth be told, I agonized over this purchase since I already own the excellent Bench Dog Pro Contractor Bench Top Router Table. I originally purchased the contractor version because of my small shop but if I'm going to be honest, it takes up valuable bench space and it's a pain to constantly shuffle around the shop to get it set up for a project. So I bit the bullet and purchased the Bench Dog ProMax Cast Iron Router Table Extension for my Ridgid R4512 cast iron table saw. I read all of the reviews and most were very positive. The instructions say this table cannot be mounted on the left side of a left tilting table saw (or on the right side of a right tilting table saw) because of the motor housing that extends from either side. I had full intentions of mounting this extension on the right side of my saw but upon receipt I decided the layout of my shop lent itself to having it on the left in spite of the fact that I have a left tilting saw. The most challenging part was getting the bolt threaded and locked down in the middle hole that attaches the extension wing to the cast iron table saw top. You need skinny fingers to get the bolt into the threaded hole (I used the bolt that came with my table saw rather than the one that came with the extension). Once I got it threaded I work at it with a bunch of different tools until I was able to snug it up pretty good. The other two bolts went in without a hitch (three bolts in all to attach the extension to the cast iron saw top). Now to attached the sides of the extension to the rails on the saw. The holes in the sides of the cast iron extension towards the front of the saw lined up fine but were too small. I ended up drilling them out to fit the bolts that came with the table saw. The side of the extension that faces the back rail was a piece of cake. Once I got the three bolts together between the extension and the saw table and the two front rail bolts locked down, I simply drilled a single hole in the other saw table rail and threw a bolt to keep it secure. There are actually two locations for bolts on the front rail and the back rail. I was able to get the two in the front but one of the holes in the rail on the back side of the saw lines up with a casting part of the extension that can't be drilled through. So I only put one bolt on that side. It certainly seems sturdy enough. Flattening the top took a bit of finessing. I also notice what a number of other posters noticed: There is a bit of a curve to the top. It's not out by more and a couple thousandths of an inch and I think it's within a level of tolerance that won't interfere with cutting wood on the table saw but it is there. You can feel the difference in the middle ever so slightly. Again I don't think this is a deal breaker. Time will tell. I installed an Incra Lift Master II which is an amazing piece of equipment - and a Dewalt 618 2-1/4 HP router. It fit just fine I have a Porter Cable 3HP router on order which I will install permanently in this extension. The whole lift, plate and router dropped right in place. I can so no interference with the motor shroud on the left tilting table saw. The extension is beefy, heavy, good casting and the fence is awesome. This will should actually translate into more shop space as now I can retire the Bench Top Router Table and clear up some much needed bench space. This extension doesn't take up any more room in my shop that the table saw does. It simply replaced the steel panel top on the left side (I moved the extra steel top extension to the right of the saw which increased the table area by 10") I haven't yet put the extension to good use but in due time. I'm confident it will make a huge difference in my shop workflow and the Incra Router Lift is so sweet I cannot imagine how I survived without it. It's a true blessing. The ability to make micro-adjustments quickly is a dream and changing the bits above the table doesn't get any easier. Outstanding piece of engineering and worth every penny. So yes, this does fit the left side of a Ridgid R4512 cast iron table saw albeit with a few minor modifications. Anyone who makes a big deal out of drilling a couple of extra holes is either lazy or overly anal about putting a hole in this fine slab of cast iron. It's not a big deal. One star off for the slight deflection in the casting but I really don't see it being an issue. If it does become an issue, I will post an update to my review. Update 6/22/15: So I've used the router table extension now for the past few months and I cannot imagine going back to the bench top model I used before I splurged on this beast. Sure the bench top has it's place in the field (which is exactly what it is designed for) but man oh man the cast iron top attached to my rolling Ridgid R4512 table saw is the cat's pajamas. The slight deflection (if that's the correct term" is certainly within a tolerance that doesn't alter my cuts on either the router or the table saw so I really think it's a non-issue. I did read in one review that the top is too low but I don't find that to be the case at all for me. I'm only 5'-8" and I find it is the perfect height. It does add some weight to the left side of my saw which forces me to be more careful when rolling the table but it hasn't dropped yet. Highly recommended for the small shop. If I had a larger shop I would definitely go with a separate router table but for my space, this is the nuts (meaning I really, really like it). Hope this helps other woodworkers who are considering such a purchase.

After reading reviews and watching whatever video's I could find on this Router Table, I still had some questions. Now that I've purchase the Router Table I'd like to answer those questions. Although my answers will be focused around my setup, I will try to answer them for other setups. I have a Ridgid R4512 Cast Iron Table Saw, the RIDGID R29302 2 HP Multi Base Router Combo, and the RIDGID WD1450 shop vac. Yes, I like Ridgid. I have made a small film which I hope will clarify my answers even more. Let start with my main question: 1. How will this Router Table mount to my Table Saw? This was my biggest concern. Initially I was wondering if I had to mount it to the left or right side of my table saw. I first thought it would be best mounted by rails to the right side of my table saw. But upon receiving the Router table, I found that the 6 holes (3 on either side) for mounting to the table saw rails did not line up correctly with the bolt slots on my rails. The holes were about 3mm to low. It would have installed 3mm higher than the surface of my table saw. I also became a little uncomfortable with that much weight so far out there on my rails. Yes the rails could support the weight, but I'd rather not. So I decided to use the more standard way of mounting it and that was to use the pre drilled holes on the back of the router table. There are seven large pre drilled holes. They are meant for two common setups; Table saws with 4 mounting holes or table saws with 3 mounting holes. My setup has 3 mounting holes. I knew I had to mount this 50lb router table myself, (no, my wife couldn't help, she's pregnant), so I grabbed a scrap 2x4 to help support it as I inserted the bolts. Surprisingly, the scrap 2x4 was the exact height I needed it to be, you'll need to cut yours if it isn't. Also, others and myself suggest using two 2x4s. I inserted the two outer most bolts first, made sure the top was level and flush with the table saw top and then tightened. The two bolts held it in place just fine. Now time for the center bolt... uh oh! Looking back at the manual it clearly states you cannot install the router table to the left side of a table saw that has a left tilting blade. This is because left tilting table saws bulge out a little bit on the left making it nearly impossible to screw in the center bolt. Why Bench dog couldn't have adjusted their design to make more space up there to do so, I don't know, this would be my first, but small, con. However, I did say "nearly impossible" because I found a way to do it. I had to use my original bolt that came with my table saw because it screwed in using a hex bit, which is small and done by inserting the bit into the center. The bolts that come with the router table require a 17mm wrench, way too big to get up there in the tinny space made by my left tilting table saw. I also had to use ¼ inch drive flex breaker bar in order to get in the tiny space and apply enough side force to tighten the bolt. I wouldn't say it's as tight as the outer bolts, but it is definitely tight. I am still on the lookout for a bit head that is shorter than what I currently have, this would allow me to get it even more tight because of the extra space that would be provided. So I now have the router table installed on the left side of a left tilting table saw. If you have a 4 hole set up, both of your center holes would have to be tightened in the small space created by the bulge. If you don't have a left tilting table saw and are installing on the left side, your life will be allot easier, at least as far as that center bolt/s go/es. SPECIAL NOTE: If you have a large router and a left-tilting table saw, you may have issues installing the router table on the left side. My small 2hp Ridgid router fits with space to spare, but bigger routers may have trouble. I can say after having mounted it that it is flat as can be and I was able to make it flush with my table saw. There was still room to nudge it into a more perfecteous alignment, if there is one. All in all I have no complaints with how flat it is and how well you can align it to you table saw. 2. Is it easy to and what is the best way to align the router plate? I wouldn't say it's easy to align the router plate. But it wasn't a difficult task either and the fact that you have 10 alignment screws and can achieve perfection is awesome. I did it by first raising the screws so that the router plate was just below the top of the router table, eye-balling of course. Then, one by one, going around the rectangle, I adjusted each alignment screw sequentially. I ran a board across the top at each location as I adjusted it to make sure it could pass over without catching yet did not dip. This method seemed to work for me. I'd be happy to hear anyone else's methods. 3. How do I align the fence accurately for a cut? This is probably a naive question, but I'm pretty new to these tools and honestly, it was a question I had before buying it, so I don't want to leave it out. However, I think it was the manual that suggested I use a combination square, and to my luck, I had recently purchased one for the assembly of my table saw. With a combination square, all you have to do is select the distance you want, then place it on either side of the router table, using the front side of the router table as a guide, and pulling the fence to meet the ruler portion of the square. Do this of course on both the right and left outer edges of the front side. This is such an easy and accurate process, I was very happy. I honestly thought I was going to have to do some crazy measuring technique with a measuring tape, which would work, just not as quick and has a greater chance of inaccuracy. The fence it self is pretty hefty. When tightened down it will not budge. Everything on it is adjustable. For a larger size bit, all you need to do is loosen the back tightening T-bolts and slide the wooden guides out, for a smaller bit, slide em in. Don't forget to tighten. The orange bit protector is nice and the shop vac adapter works great with my Ridgid shop vac. I would say it gets 90%+ of all saw dust. The extra fence slots on the router table are nice to achieve high angles. 4. Will I need to drill any holes to install my router? If your router is on the list Bench Dog supplies, and you purchase the corresponding router plate, no, you will not have to drill any holes. I purchased the Ridgid Combo router knowing I was probably going to get this router table. I didn't need an ultra-powerful router so I went with a 2hp group A router and ordered the corresponding group A plate. It matched up perfectly. My router has a height adjustment that, when installed on a router table, can be accessed from above using a T shaped tool. The tool of course has to go through the router plate. The plate, thoughtfully, has the hole exactly where it needs to be for me to adjust the height from above. This made me very happy. I do still have to unlock the height adjustment from below, but then I can just use the tool to adjust it. If your router is not on any of the lists, you may have to drill your own holes. But I would contact bench dog and ask if they could possibly match it up. Also, yes, sadly, bench dog does not supply the plate with the router table. However, this seems reasonable because there are different versions of plates for different routers. I would not expect them to include all 4 router plate groups. In summary I hope I have answered some of your questions by answering mine. If not, feel free to contact me via my e-mail displayed on my profile page, or comment on this review. I think this is a great router table. I had previously ordered the MLCS 2394 Extension Router Table Top & Fence with Universal Router Plate , but had a bad experience there, mostly with shipping, please read that review for full details if interested. I share the enthusiasm of everyone else who has reviewed this table with positive reviews and have no real gripes about it. True, I do wish Bench Dog would make installing on the left on a left tilting table saw more of an option, and the router plate does not come with it, but these are both understandable why they don't. All in all, it gives me above and beyond the functionality I need, in the space I need, and looks good.

UPDATE: Got a replacement table with the exact same warp. Went into a Rockler store, where they showed me a table with a similar issue but slightly more flat. It was off by maybe a 64th instead of 32nd. A machinist explained that they may have machined the top before the cast was fully cured. Either way, with the plate and inner ring sitting a combined 16th above the edges of the table, there's no way to secure a piece and ensure any decent consistency. Totally useless table. Nice looking table, and cast iron is a great idea if you value flatness. The installation manual even brags that their tolerances are tighter than a table saw's. The table I got was a 1/32 inch off flat. Yes, you read that right. This table is 4 times more curved than BenchDog's state tolerance. Assuming they'd make a decently flat table, I didn't bother checking before installing. Giant waste of time. And now I've got extra holes in my table saw. FYI, I also bought BenchDog's Pro Plate. It arrived minus the inner packaging and with no inner ring or hardware. There was a big ding on the corner and signs of wear. It was likely used a few times. I returned that. They sent a decent one. But after this massively defective table and insert debacle, I'd say you should be extremely careful ordering a BenchDog product. If nothing else, make sure you have PLENTY OF TIME TO WAIT, TO INSTALL, UNINSTALL, TO PACKAGE BACK UP, TO SHIP BACK, TO WAIT FOR THE REPLACEMENT, TO INSTALL AGAIN. If they send me a decent table, something within .008" of flat, I'll edit this. But given the huge inconvenience, perfection from this point out only means barely satisfactory.

I purchased a Bench Dog ProMax router table extension. Since I am limited on work space, I did not have room for a separate router table. This unit replaces one of the sides of my table saw. My saw is a Rigid, which appears to be almost identical to the Delta in the advertisement. I then drilled the cast iron side that I had removed, and added it next to the other cast iron side to double the length there (grade 8, 3/8" bolts with holes reamed to 10mm to ease assembly). Before, the rails just extended into space with a flimsy rod to give them rigidity. I did have to flatten one side of the medium sized washers, to fit under the lip. I preferred that to using a smaller washer. The only down side is that the fence tape-measure was glued to the front rail. Since I adjusted the rail position, I need to buy a new self-adhesive tape measure for the fence. But the overall width of the table saw with the rails moved, is the same as when I started, so it fits in its little spot in the garage when not in use. The holes in the sides of the Bench Dog router table extension were 1/4" and the rail bolts were 5/16", so I had to open those slightly. But cast iron drills easily at low RPM. While it can be assembled by one person, a second set of hand is much safer, at least until two of the bolts are in. The table is heavy and on my table was a tight fit between the rails. It didn't occur to me until later to loosen the rails before sliding the table extension in (duh!). The Rigid has 4x 5/16" bolts, but the holes were 3/8". Maybe the holes were a bit oversize to allow for easier assembly or to allow more manufacturing variance and still obtain alignment., but I opted to use larger 3/8" bolts. And while only grade 5 is specified, my local Home Depot only had what I wanted in grade 8. I already had the router - a heavy duty Milwaukee, that had so much torque it was hard to control by hand. The table lets me finally use it . The screws included in the plate (sold separately) were a few threads too long, so I shortened them on the belt-sander. I am pleased with this unit. I took a few practice passes with a joiner bit and the fence, as well as the bit with the roller on it, and the fulcrum insert (on the Bench Dog router plate/insert). It performed as expected. Previously, I used an end mill to rout wood inserts for my tool drawers, but I was limited to 8" width on my machine vise. Now I'm like a kid at Christmas imagining all the stuff I'm going to make. My first project will be to take down all the oak shelves I have put up around the house and put beveled edges on them. Simple, sure, but it will give me practice and confidence before learning more complicated stuff like joining. My goal is to learn how to do dovetail joints.

Like many others, I purchased this extension wing to grill on, but it turns out this was a terrible idea. The center hole results in a good deal of accidental lost items during the cooking process. At first, I was going to just put it with the other failed grill tops, but then I had an amazing idea. It really seemed better suited affixed to my table saw. I know I'm going to get a lot of sour faces from those seasoned grill masters, but here me out... It turns out this is a really great router table and it fits the rigid perfectly. There are a plethora of screws to fit many common table saws. Keep in mind, some of the other Rigid models in this era have tapped threads and they recommend you supply your own grade eight nuts and bolts in that case. As others have done, I took the extra router wing from the left side and drilled additional holes on the right side. I took a little extra precaution and replaced all of the mounting bolts with grade eight as well. This gives me the additional work area and actually had a better balancing effect. When on the casters there was a slight tilt to the left as the benchdog is quite a bit heavier then my open wings. I took the advice of someone else on the reviews and made my mounting holes slightly larger. This gave me about a milimeter of play to level out my newly migrated extension wing. The extra surface and router add in really breathed some life into the table. Now I'm dreaming about a fence upgrade.

I attached this to and old-style, left-tilt Unisaw. Attached very easily, and levelling was also easy. Needed some slight shimming to get it precisely flat with the saw, but only took about 15 minutes total to install. Bolt holes lined up perfectly. I was a bit concerned that 16 inches of additional table might flex just a bit (with double the width of the original cast iron wing), but it has been very rigid. They include bolts made of extra-strong steel and warn you not to use the original bolts included with the saw, so they take this extra leverage seriously. I use the table with the Bench Dog lift and the big PC router, and everything is rock solid. Saves a great deal of space compared to a stand alone table, and is in a convenient position to use. I was also concerned that the installed router might block access to the saw tilt wheel, but this is not a problem on the Unisaw. While the included fence is adequate, I made one that simply attaches to my table saw fence (I have a Unifence), which glides easily and locks in place with one push of the fence handle. The other advantage of this is that I now have an easy measurement guage for cutting dados (using the tape built into the fence guide). I also built my fence to take a full 4" dust fitting, which pulls up significantly more chips than the 2.5" port built into the Bench Dog fence. Overall, this table has more than met my hopes and expectations.