Superior ElectricL50 Aftermarket Trigger Switch 24/12A-125/250V compatible with Makita 651172-0, 651121-7 and 651168-1, Red

These worked out great. Fit great, work great. Had a problem getting these from the store. They didn't fit right so this was ideal. Would order again

It is not an exact fit, but it is so close that it works great. Saved me from throwing the saw away as parts for some Craftsman power tools are becoming obsolete. Cheap fix and well worth it.

I was a little concerned, buying a generic trigger, that it wouldn't fit in my Dewalt DW705 miter saw. To my delight it fit well and was a breeze to install. The contact screws weren't brass like the originals and were a bit less substantial, but what can you expect with a generic part. I plugged the saw in, it made a strange hum, the blade started to spin, then a puff of smoke came out of the motor and it worked no longer. So... get a OEM part is my advice. Or repair the original. After this, I took apart the original and the saddest thing is that it would have been pretty easy to repair - the dielectric grease had gotten dirty and needed to be cleaned/repacked.

The switch fit perfectly and was easy to install into the saw. However, there was no wiring instructions. Almost every switch like this has the input at one end and the output at the other end. That's the way the one I took out was. I wired this one up the same way and the saw would not work after assembly. I thought maybe it was a bad switch. I had ordered 2, so I was going to try the other one. Then I thought I'd test the other one with my meter. NOTHING. I was about to fill out the return, when I had a thought to test the switching across the two terminals at the same end. Sure enough, that worked. These are wired so the one in-an-out is at one end and the other in-and-out is at the other end. So, after re-wiring, it worked perfectly. I had to kind of stretch and rearrange the wires inside the handle in order to get them to reach like that, but managed to make it work.

Nice switch, decent material.Now we’ll need time to see how is it.Price is good

I bought this to use in a Rockwell 034-010 Power Miter from the 1970's because OEM and 3rd party equivalents are no longer made. Looking at it in the pictures it was roughly the same outline as the one I had and evidently, from both the official description and from some other reviews, it works in many other devices with springloaded triggers that pop on and off rapidly to minimize arcing. This is not surprising since many manufacturers use elements from the same set "off-the-shelf" parts already available... or in some cases tweak them slightly for copyright or other purposes, but leave them basically the same. It DOES FIT my saw PERFECTLY but does not work exactly like the original, requiring slight modification.WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW:This is a double pole single throw switch, meaning it connects/disconnects two input leads (wires) which is what most of these devices use for rapid, sure starts and to completely disconnect the unit from both common AND hot for safety when off. If your device is double pole double throw, like SOME units that automatically use electrical braking might have, then this will NOT function the same... though you might get it to turn the unit on, but not kick in the brake.HOWEVER: This trigger switches from the two leads on one side to the two on the other!!!! Meaning that one lead at the top and one lead at the bottom on one side are routed to the corresponding upper and lower leads on the other side. My miter saw and many other devices have their wires cut to length and routed to be switched from top to bottom instead of left to right as this one does.Example diagrams:This switch, the L50 Aftermarket Trigger Switch, looking at it from the rear.in__on| || || ||____|ih ohic=input neutral (usually a white wire) from wall cord.ih=input hot wire (usually black) from the wall cord.oc=output neutral wire going to the device when on.oh=output hot wire going to the device when on.Or if you are used to electrical diagrams the L50 Aftermarket Trigger Switch is like thiscom ___/ ____hot ___/ ____MY OEM switch was internally wired to switch from top to bottom like this:in__ih| || || ||____|on ohSo, before you buy you might want to see if both of the wall cord input wires are on the top or bottom like mine... or both of the input wires from the wall cord are attached to one side like this switch.If you want the least trouble and yours are top/bottom like mine... then you might want to order a different switch. However, if you don't mind doing a little wire splicing, you can easily adapt this switch if it fits physically and it should work okay like mine did.If the information provided isn't enough to figure out how to adapt it and your unit is clearly switched top to bottom, you might want to just skip it and try to find one wired the same.If you really want to try, basically you'll need to lengthen either the left or right of the two wires on the top to reach the bottom and lengthen the bottom wire on the other side to reach the top, then connect them to where the other lengthened wire had been. So, if you lengthened the left top wire, you'll lengthen the bottom right wire and then the top left wire will be connected to the bottom right position and the old bottom right wire will be connected to where the old top left wire was.Believe me, trying to explain it is a lot harder than doing it. You just need to remember that you have to make your input wall cord wires both hook up to either the right or both hook up to the left... while your output wires have to both hook up on the other side.AND IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING THEN DON'T DO IT.I'm not responsible for your work and have provided this as a good samaritan to the best of my knowledge. I have proof read it a few times, but I CAN and may have made a mistake. Plus, I DO NOT know machines other than the one I worked on. So, make sure YOU verify everything to your own satisfaction for your own personal safety. YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOURSELF!! I DO NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY.

The Superior Electric L50 trigger switch can be used as a replacement for the 1970’s era Sears 315.11850 circular saw. The original Sears circular saw has a switch with 4 wires. However, the white wires are “pass through” only and do nothing, whereas the black wires are connected to the internal SPST trigger switch. The Superior Electric L50 trigger switch has the DPST configuration with two sets of terminals at each end of the switch. The Superior Electric L50 trigger switch fits inside the Sears circular saw without any mechanical modifications. After removing the old switch simply connect the white wires together and protect them with a small wire nut. The black wires connect to one set of switch terminals; the other set of switch terminals is not needed. Once installed the old Sears circular saw springs back to life. Just be sure to check the wiring before applying power.

The switch works Great!But, I can tell by some of the reviews on these switches that some folks bought the wrong switch and the wiring was backwards! Therefore, the switch blew the breaker upon pulling the trigger...Unfortunately, I rolled the dice and bought this one because it looked the same as mine and it fit other tools like mine! lol! The switch terminals were indeed backwards from my original.Good thing I'm handy and know a little about electrical. I was able to lengthen my power supply wires by stripping back the cord insulation and then rerouting the wires to the correct terminals...Works GREAT! can't beat the price or quick shipping!

I used this for an older GREY miter saw. I almost threw the saw out but thought what the hell. It worked perfect.

Es lo que esperabsuy bien

Works after modifications to plastic Frame

Used for black n Decker sawcat..fit perfect and works great..heavy duty

Vous devrez voir avec ce produit pour vos client futur, j'ai dû aller chez Rona acheter le bon modèle pour cette switch. Pas satisfait de ce produit. J'ai commandé deux ce produit et les deux fois il ne fonctionnait pas.