CG Solid State Relay SSR-25DD DC to DC Input 3-32VDC To Output 5-240VDC 25A Single Phase Plastic Cover

I have been needing these for a long time and didn't even know it. Mechanical relays fail pretty quick in some applications and have other issues. This works perfectly with a control voltage of greater than 3 volts and is dead silent. No moving parts. The back is an awesome heat sink. Easy to mount and hook up. Love these things just ordered more.

I purchased the ZGT-40 DD solid state relay and this feedback is based upon that SSR alone. I do not know if other units with different amperage need to be wired differently.First, absolutely disgraceful documentation and video supplied by the seller who obviously doesn't give a (you know what) based upon the number of comments citing total confusion as to how to wire this product correctly. Sellers have a responsibility to provide ACCURATE documentation for EACH product they sell and this seller fails completely. I recommend you look elsewhere for a seller that knows the product they are selling and provides accurate documentation. This seller will never get another penny from me.1. Note that the advertised amperage is the MAX amperage, not the rated amperage. You will only see that nuance if you read the detailed description of the product. The seller does not provide the rated amperage anywhere in the product description and it is likely significantly less than the maximum current which is why so many buyers complain about burned up relays.2. The video provided by the seller demonstrating how to wire the device is WRONG!!! It shows a low side SSR with the load on the negative side.3. The wiring graphic provided by the seller demonstrating how to wire the device is WRONG!!! It states "Please connect the load on the positive side" but includes a diagram showing it wired on the negative side!!! It doesn't get much more irresponsible than that, folks.The ZGT-40 DD is a "HIGH SIDE" SSR and needs to be wired with the relay on the POSITIVE lead as shown in the graphic I have uploaded. That's it. Why the seller couldn't provide this simple graphic can only be due to LAZINESS!Note that the relay gets hot during operation and heat sinks are not an option even for low current. To give you an idea, after one minute of putting 8 amps through this "40 amp" relay it is hot enough that I can't leave my fingers on it for more than 10 seconds.My advice is to look elsewhere if you need a quality relay. These $10 relays are worth as much as they cost...$10.

Why did you pick this product vs others?:Best ones I’ve ever bought. Can be used for just about anything u want to switch on and off.

worked for my projects and i have bought more since. would recommend if you need something like this for your projects

I have a DC-powered fan in my pinball cabinet that I wanted to turn on whenever certain effects happen, but the current draw of the fan was higher than the output from my electronics board allowed, so an SSR was needed. This takes an input current and when triggered turns on an output current for the fan. My only word of note - be sure and look at the diagram included with the SSR. I assumed I knew how it should be hooked up and was wrong - USE THE DIAGRAM!

Bought 2 of these thinking that possibility of one being bad was not unrealistic. Both failed. Installed completely within specifications and neither worked. On connection both relays closed the switched circuit without having the relay energized. Due to the nature of the project I could not fire the system up until beyond the window of ability to return so I seem to have no recourse. Not happy about that. I wound up ordering a TE brand relay (just one) and it worked perfectly on install. The TE relay is also made in China, but clearly to higher standards.

I've killed a couple accidentally because the output is one direction so if you feed in from the wrong direction for too long you kill it. Either toss in a slip of paper or label it better then these would be 5 star all day every day. And they get HOT so scrounge up some old computer heatsinks and JB Weld them on with a thin layer so you get heat transfer.

I needed to control a solar-powered well pump with a float switch. Could not find a float switch which would handle 5 amps at 140 volts DC. The controller that the pump manufacturer sells costs several hundred dollars. With this SSR, I just needed a small float switch and a tiny 5v solar panel to provide a few milliamps for control power.I bolted the SSR to the back of a metal enclosure using the supplied heat sink grease. So the enclosure serves as the heat sink. It doesn't get warm.Instructions are sparse, so I don't know if the control power has to be isolated from the load. Could have built a voltage divider with resistors to get control voltage from the main panels, but using the tiny panel ensures that the two sides of the SSR are isolated. Very easy to hook up. It's been in service for about a week. I'll update if anything changes.