Gjelina: Cooking from Venice, California

I collect cookbooks. I love to curl up with a new cookbook to feel inspiration. The pictures of fluffy dead bunnies and ducks with their gorgeous feathers in crates as "ingredients" do not inspire me. These pictures deeply disturbed me.

This cookbook has absolutely blown me away. The photos are spectacular and the layout is thoughtful; almost all recipes occupy one page while the facing page is the corresponding photo, making the recipes simple to follow while cooking. The writing is concise and interesting, the recipes are explicitly written, there's a substantial range of flavors and dishes covered, and most importantly - the end results are amazing. [I've posted a list of the recipes at the end of my review.]I have never been to Gjelina, nor had I even heard of it when I ordered the cookbook, but it seemed like the sort of food that I would enjoy - homemade pizza, pasta, roasted vegetables, delicious but not complicated desserts. I wasn't sure where to start, so this cookbook lay around my house for a while, but once I tried the chickpea kale stew, I was completely hooked. I cannot stop cooking dishes from this cookbook. So far, I've made the chickpea stew (it works almost as nicely with canned chickpeas if you are feeling lazy), roasted cauliflower, charred Brussels sprouts with bacon, kale-fennel salad, pomodoro sauce, pizza pomodoro, roasted chicken with braised kale, kabocha squash olive oil cake, and the show-stopping chocolate tart. Every recipe I have tried has been pure gold. Not fussy, not overly complicated, easy to source ingredients for, and incredibly enjoyable to eat.Contents------Condiments:California Za'atarSoffritoCarrot top pistouMint-pomegranate pestoMint-pistachio pestoJalapeno-ginger-mint pestoBroccoli rabe pestoCharmoulaHorseradish gremolataParsley salsa verdeChimichurriHarissaGreen harissaBagna CaudaMojo de AjoSpiced yogurtButtermilk Creme FraicheAioli (basic, black olive & anchovy, pimenton, smoked almond)RomescoPomodoro SauceSmoky tomato butterTomato confitCherry tomato confitShallot confitGarlic confitGarlic chips & garlic oilCrispy shallots & shallot oilRoasted apple, rosemary, & black pepper mostardaPickled Fresno chiliesPickled red onionsPickled eggplant with anchovies and Fresno chilePickled turnips with Meyer lemonSpicy sweet cucumbersPreserved lemonsFermented leeksGiardinieraKimchee with Guajillo chile pasteRoasted or grilled red peppersGrilled or toasted breadSalads:Mixed lettuce with yogurt dressing & warm croutonsTuscan kale salad with fennel, radish & ricotta salataBloomsdale spinach salad with honey-garlic dressing, feta & pine nutsEscarole & sunchoke salad with smoked almonds & preserved lemonArugula & radicchio salad with crispy shallots & shallot oi-sherry vinaigretteSpicy herb salad with ginger-lime dressingSmoked trout salad with grapefruit & avocadoGems with Fuyu persimmon, pomegranate, crisp garlic & blue cheese dressingDandelion greens with lemon-anchovy dressingGrilled kale with shallot-yogurt dressing & toasted hazelnutsGrilled chicories with crispy fried eggs & bacon vinaigretteGrilled escarole wedges with lemon-anchovy dressing & roasted peppersGrilled red romaine with bagna caudaPizzas & Toasts:Gjelina pizza dough (note: one of the few recipes that requires planning ahead at least 1 day)Pizza pomodoroPizza pomodoro crudoPizza with spinach, feta & garlic confitPizza with nettles, raclette & Fresno chilePizza with mushrooms & truffle-studded goat cheesePizza with asparagus, sottocenere & sunny eggPizza with anchovies & roasted pepperPizza with guanciale, castelvetrano olives & Fresno chilePizza with bacon & radicchioPizza with lamb sausage & broccoli rabeEggplant caponata & burrata on toasted baguetteMushroom toastSmoked ocean trout rillettes & fermented leeks on rye toastChicken & duck liver pate with pickled beets & mustard greens on brioche toastsSeared morcilla with roasted apple, rosemary & black pepper mostarda & chimichurri on toasted baguetteVegetables:Baby radishes with black olive & anchovy aioliSauteed green beans, smoked almonds, shallot confit & preserved lemonSnap peas & tendrils with prosciutto, soffrito & mintPan-roasted romanesco with golden raisins, tahini & sumacSeared okra, black olives, tomato confit, pine nuts & chileBraised sweet corn, chile, cilantro, feta & limeBraised spiced romano beans with yogurt & mintBraised fava beans, lemon, black pepper, pecorinoBraised green chickpeas with pomegranate & fetaRoasted artichokes with Calabrian chile, anchovy & crispy shallotsRoasted fennel with orange & crushed red pepper flakesRoasted cauliflower with garlic, parsley & vinegarRoasted acorn squash with hazelnuts, brown butter & rosemaryRoasted beets with tops, herbed yogurt & horseradishRoasted beets with avocado, orange, toasted hazelnuts & sherry vinegarRoasted sunchokes with parsley salsa verseRoasted purple potatoes with ailoli, horseradish, pickled red onion & dillRoasted yams with honey, espelette & lime yogurtOven-roasted parsnips with hazelnut picadaPan-roasted baby carrots, orange, cilantro, sesame & spiced yogurtPan-roasted baby turnips with their greens & chimichurriGrilled jumbo asparagus with Gribiche & bottargaGrilled eggplant, Mojo de Ajo & basil salsa verdeGrilled summer squash, Za'atar & cherry tomato confitGrilled kabocha squash with mint-pomegranate pesoGrilled king Oyster mushrooms with tarragon butterGrilled broccolini with garlic, crushed red pepper flakes & red wine vinegarPotato, leek & chard gratin with taleggioCharred Brussels sprouts with bacon & datesSweet potato hashPasta:Spaghetti pomodoroSpaghetti with anchovies, crushed red pepper flakes, garlic & oreganoOrecchiette with chicken hearts, turnip greens, pecorino & black pepperRicotta gnocchi with cherry tomato pomodoroSquid ink chitarra with anchoviesRye rages with sausage, mushrooms & fennelTuna & buckwheat-pasta gratinKabocha squash & goat cheese agnolotti with brown butter & walnut picadaSoups, stews & grains:Vegetable stockFish stockChicken stockBeef stockBeef bone broth with greens & poached eggChicken & escarole soup with charmoula & lemonTomato, beet & carrot soupHeirloom bean stew with barley & green harissaChickpea stew with tomato, tumeric, yogurt & harissaWild rice with chorizo, walnuts & pomegranateWheat berries with fennel brothFarro with beet & mint yogurtFarro piccolo cooked in pomodoroRustic corn grits with mushroom sugo & poached eggFish:Oysters (5 different sauces)Crudo (4 ways)Grilled mackerel with ginger, garlic, lime & green onionWhole grilled sea bream with green tomatoes, basil & mintSardines baked in tomato-pepper sauceStriped bass stew with kohlrabi, fennel, saffron & pimenton aioliCioppinoSquid with lentils & salsa verdeGrilled octopus with braised balck-eyed peasMussels with chorizo & tomato confitRazor clams seared in cast iron with parsley butterRoasted prawns with garlic, parley, crushed red pepper flakes & lemonMeat:Rustic chicken & duck liver patePork shoulder & duck liver pate with paprika & garlicChorizoLamb sausageBlood sausagePork & fennel sausage with fava & cherry tomatoesMeatballs braised in red wine & tomatoPan-seared calf liver with leeks & red wineCharred blade steak with green peppercorn & sherry pan sauceSteaks with smoky tomato butter & cipolliniSlow-cooked lamb shoulder with orange, yogurt & herbsGuajillo-glazed lamb ribsBraised rabbit with black trumpet mushrooms & paprikaRoasted half chicken with smoky braised kaleDessert:Sorbets (Coconut, blackberry-ginger, raspberry-rose, and strawberry+Meyer lemon)Gelato (Olive oil and ginger)Butterscotch pots de Creme with Salted CaramelYogurt panna cotta with winter citrusStrawberry-rhubarb polenta crispBlackberry, huckleberry & ginger pieChocolate tartKabocha, olive oil & bittersweet chocolate cakeWarm date cake with ginger gelato

I was excited just reading about this cookbook, but now that it’s here, I know I’m not going to be cooking out of it much. It’s not really a home cook’s book, unless you’re a person with a lot of time on your hands, willing to order ingredients online or do some serious hoofing to find them locally. There are some simple recipes for sides and starters, but once you hit the entrees, your ingredient list may range from 12 to 20 items. Most ingredients are accessible enough, but then there’s those ‘add a tablespoon each of tomato confit, garlic confit, and some other confit’ - each confit which requires 6 to 8 ingredients and take 45 minutes to make a cup and a half of something that will hold in your fridge for three days. And there’s the cheese you could get from the artisianal cheesemaker down the block, if you have one, or the heirloom gardener for that certain something, and the pomegranate molasses or wheat berries or…oh, hell. Where do you get this stuff?!I don’t fault the writer or recipes; they are clearly presented and executable. They do state up front that they spike their dishes with all sorts of pickled and flavor-packed confits, which is totally practical for a restaurant - not so much for my family of 3.

This book is amazing! I love all the vegetable dishes and pizzas in here. Everything is visually stunning and fantastically colorful. The flavors are strong. The techniques work.Pictured below:1) Roasted Beets with Avocado, Orange, Toasted Hazelnuts, and Sherry Vinegar - p165. Fantastic! The combination's unusual and makes the most harmonious bite.2) Roasted Yams with Honey, Espelette, and Lime Yogurt - p168. Wonderfully fragrant, with a great sweet and spicy balance.3-4) Grilled Kale with Shallot-Yogurt Dressing, and Toasted Hazelnuts - p97, and the Shallot Confit - p64 used in the salad. Delicious! It started snowing here, so I made it inside in a cast iron pan, and that worked beautifully, too.5) Garlic Confit - p64. Used in the next two pizzas, but this could be used on anything!6) Pizza Pompodoro Crudo - p108. Great pizza! He said the tomatoes wouldn't make the pizza wet. It had a little more liquid than I'd like, so I'll probably pre-roast them a bit first next time to reduce the liquid. All three pizzas use the Gjelina Pizza Dough on p104. You make the dough a day or two before, but there's enough for 3 pizzas. And the technique is all stand mixer. The only hand involvement is folds - no kneading. If you've never made a multi-day pizza crust, you're in for a treat. The taste is so much better.7) Pizza with Spinach, Feta, and Garlic Confit - p111. Divine.8) Pizza with Guanciale, Castelvetrano Olives, and Fresno Chile - p121. Very rich pizza.9) Meatballs Braised in Red Wine & Tomato - p303 & Pomodoro Sauce - p59 (used on the 3rd pizza, too). These were good, but it was the only recipe I was disappointed with. It's much more involved than the typical recipe for meatballs and sauce, so I want them to blow away easier recipes. They didn't taste like the effort required.Those are just the tip of the iceberg. Great book!

The confits are my favorite new kitchen staple but you can easily divide the amount into 1/2 or 1/4. Perfect for a long weekend if you have time on your hands to slow roast tomatoes/shallots/garlic and then reap the rewards for weeks. The pizza recipe is absurd, the vegetable section was the biggest bang for my buck. Similar to Ottolenghi but perhaps less versatile.

Nice looking book - it has been printed in a natty way that leaves the edges of the pages very close to the edges of the boards. I bought this after going to Gjelina for breakfast and having the best pastries and the best coconut rice pudding of my life, so I was disappointed to find out they're not in here. And for a Californian recipe book, I would perhaps have liked & expected a few more vegetarian recipes in the mix - there are amusing dead rabbit photos, so don't give it to your rabbit loving hippie friends. It is lovely to read, we've only tried one of the recipes and it came out beautifully and felt super healthy, super deluxe, super restauranty.

Fresh recipes

I work in food, I have so so many cookbooks, but..... This is my new favourite. If you like vegetables and small plates this is perfect. Meat and fish sections haven't really been touched, this is the go to for sides and desserts in my house.

Brilliant book. Captures the feel of the restaurant and includes very easy to follow recipes.

Brilliant book