DB Electrical New DB Electrical Alternator Compatible BBB 7127-1W, BBB HD 7127-1W, N7127-1W, NAPA Power Premium Plus 213-4011SW, 7127-SEN-1, ADR0152

Tried to find an alternator at local auto store and they wanted over 100, found this unit and arrived fast !Had to swap the pulley (8groove polybelt) from my unit over to the new unit (easy enough with a socket and breaker bar)Only prob was location of wiring was toward engine block making the install finicky. Some of the generic 3 wire alternators have wire connections in different locations.Working well - delivering 14.6v and charging strong - a couple of months in nowMarine application, Cummins 6b, mounted on the exhaust side

Had to swap out the alternator on my 12v converted Ford NAA. This worked great. Swapped the pulley, bolted right in, and worked right away. My battery no longer drains and my ammeter actually shows the alternator charging after I start the tractor. Simple fix. Not too expensive. Its a 10SI alternator. It worked.

The alternator was easy to install and works great, thanks.

Works well. Seems to produce around 15 amps at the low RPMs my boat’s engine runs at. It’s sufficient to charge the batteries after an hour or so of motoring. Haven’t had any issues with the alternator.

This DB Electrical alternator is a must if you're like me.... own an older 80s model Ford tractor(i.e. "84 4610 3 cyl. diesel) and you are tired of boiling over your battery because the external voltage regulator has failed AGAIN or your battery just isn't charging anymore for a couple different reasons. This alternator bolted bolted right on perfectly w/one exception, I had to change the stock alt. bracket base pivot bolt from a 1/2" to 3/8", got that from local hdwe. store for only $2.30.And, if you're wondering if this alternator will excite the battery @ idle, it does. This alt. excites @ approx. 2250RPMs of the alt. pulley. Knowing that the tractor crank pulley is roughly 3 times the size of the alt. pulley along w/idling at about 750RPMs, this alt. excites @ idle.I purchased one of the GM pigtails for this alt. so I could connect the "idiot" light(alternator light) on dash telling me if battery is charging or not and that was simply plug-n-play. Note: when using the pigtail you MUST connect, in this case, the WHITE wire from pigtail to GRND. terminal on "idiot" light. The white wire acts as a ground when key is on then when the engine(and alternator) is running/spinning the light goes out because NOW that connection is a positive, thus the light has no GRND. to complete the circuit....yeah that took way longer to figure out than it did to type it, believe you me(LOL).I wish I had purchased and installed this alternator long before my old one started( I use that term very loosely) acid washing my injectors and starter wiring. Anyone who has or ever had one of these old Fords knows exactly what I'm talking about, albeit Ford in their infinite wisdom decided to mount the battery on a swing-out plate right on top of the motor and I do mean "on top" of the motor. Maybe they thought that by the time the external volt. reg. would go bad that the tractor would be in need of a good ol' acid washin'(geez).

I used this as a replacement on a Bobcat 610 with a troublesome Delco, externally regulated, alternator. This thing charges at a more consistent voltage and outputs more amps than the original. The only issue is that it requires a lot of RPM to self excite. If the machine doesn't see full throttle for a few seconds, it will never charge.

This went on a restored 79 MGB. It required slight electrical changes as well as mechanical (shims) for proper alignment and stability. It did not fail. It never worked. It was quite though and appeared mechanically correct.

probably was a good alternator just wouldn't fit