HDMI ARC to Optical Audio Adapter, NEWCARE 4K@60Hz H DMI Audio Splitter Converter, HDMI to Optical Toslink SPDIF+3.5mm Jack AUX Audio Out, Metal HDMI Audio Extractor Support Blue-Ray Play Soundbar

My setup is an Nvidia Shield (2017 version) feeding a LG 4K OLED TV (CX series, 2020 version). My receiver is old and does not support 4K, so I cannot feed the HDMI directly thru my receiver. I have to feed it into the TV then use either Optical or HDMI ARC from the TV to feed audio back to my receiver. HOWEVER, LG no longer provides DTS support on their TVs, so all of my DTS content would not play sound. I placed this device between my Shield and LG TV, running the optical from this device to my receiver. Set the device to 5.1 (using the little 3-way switch on it). And it works!!! I get DTS, DD, AC3, etc all on my receiver just fine, while still passing the 4K@60 video (with HDR) onto my LG TV. So far, all of the video file formats I have sent through this setup work perfectly. Video is 4K@60, and it passes HDR and Dolby Vision. Optical is not supported to be able to handle DTS-HD, so I changed the settings in KODI to say that my receiver does not support DTS-HD and apparently it converts it down to regular DTS because files with DTS-HD audio also play just fine. I will report back if there are any file formats this does not work with, but so far so good!

Yes. This one works. Sent another back because it went out to lunch with the smallest change in status on the c-type usb port on my s5e. And then to get the video going again I would have to unplug the hdmi cable on the monitor and start over. This one is very stable. The only thing is that if you unplug the c-type dongle (the samsung one with charging/hdmi/usb3) then, when you plug it back in, you need to turn the power switch off on the monitor until the device is hooked back up and then power the monitor back on and it comes up. I have no phone on my tablet, and I use my google voice to dial out on it. Google voice uses the tablet speakers instead of hooking up to the headphones on the device. Bummer. Have to plug in the dongle that comes with the table to use earphones with calls. Haven't found a setting to get around that. All in all very pleased.

Our Dish Hopper has a bug in the program. When we go to YouTube through Hopper, the TOSLINK optical audio goes dead but HDMI embedded audio continues to work. Reported to Dish engineering but who knows if they will ever fix it. In the meantime, this little HDMI audio de-embedder solved the problem. We looped the Hopper HDMI out through the Newcare HDMI 2.0b Audio Extractor and fed optical S/PDIF to our audio amplifier. Problem solved. The box is transparent with no side effects. Comes with 5 volt power pack, HDMI jumper, and TOSLINK cable. Highly recommend for those rare times when you really need to pull audio from HDMI. >> Review Followup After 3 Months of Use >> The audio extractor is still working but I discovered a flaw in it's programming. When fed from our Dish Hopper receiver, the audio channels are reversed. Specifically, left and right are swapped. If I moved the protocol slide switch to another position and back, the channels righted themselves. That is, for a while. After a few minutes, the channels were reversed again. The TOSLINK feeds a Yamaha amplifier/decoder. Now I suppose if this is the only source you have then you could simply swap the speakers. Or just ignore the problem as almost everything is center channel these days except for music. Since my return window has expired I replaced it with another brand and will put it on my oddities shelf. I informed seller of the problem and received a quick reply where they offered a refund even though the return window had passed. They also informed be that the product was now revised and suggested that I try the newest version. They provided a link to make that option easier. I understand that problems occur from time to time and appreciate when a seller will step up do their best to make things right. That is why I am giving them a 4 star review, 3 stars for the product and 6 stars for above and beyond good customer service,

Terrible product, I am returning it. Would give it Zero stars if I could. There is a loud hissing / white noise sound when music is idle or low. It does extract the audio and send the video just fine, but the hissing sound just makes it unbearable. This is especially bad if you are using it to play YouTube on a projector and extract sound to loud speakers for a party like I was doing. Don't waste your time and money here with this product. The problem definitely was the product, becuase I troubleshot it may ways and nothing got rid of the hiss. I finally just went to Best Buy the day of my party, and luckily bought a different one off the shelf, that worked flawlessly. Also for this product, the jacks are way too close together, which makes even plugging in your cables a ridiculous hassle if they are not slim.

I was disappointed to see my New Samsung Smart TV did not have a SPDIF port for my Yamaha 5.1 channel sound system to connect to. I'm not ready to buy a new sound system. The one I have puts out great sound. Fortunately, this converter seamlessly connected my sound system to the HDMI ARC port on the TV. It works great! Now I have surround sound again when watching movies on my new tv.

Amazon shipped in a paper-bag mailer. The splitter is very tiny, even with the many thin cables that came in a plastic bag... which had been opened, by the way. And what they're calling an owners manual is a very small strip of paper which needs a magnifying glass to read... and a translator who actually speaks English to write it. Thankfully, the onscreen instructions on the buying page here at Amazon explained what needed to be done for what I wanted to do... and in actual English, thank you very much. Amazingly enough, it works. The Splitter turns off the ARC function when you turn off the TV, and ARC needs to be turned back on manually next time. Oddly, it has no way for you to turn up the volume that I can find... so you're pretty much stuck as far as I can tell. Since some streaming apps are much louder than others, maybe NEWCARE should address this problem... or at least the reviewers on the net ought to make a note of this problem. HDMI isn't a WYSIWYG function, IMO, and bundling video and audio is a bad concept to begin with since it has spun-off all these splitters. Just my opinion.

At first I had lots of trouble with is product to be honest. I got in touch with NEWCARE customer service and they happily send a replacement and were overall very eager to help if there were any further issues. The issue in case anyone else's device does this too, this maybe the fix. So when the TV would turn on almost every time I would have to go and play with the wires and the sound output switch till it would eventually work and my external speaker would then work. When I got the new device that was sent it had the same issue, however after some trial and error I figured out the solution. You have to connect the audio adapter to the TV without using the HDMI on the audio adapter. This allows it to not be fixed to that device but to reroute the TVs sound to all devices. Then just use the other HDMI connections like normal. This seemed to mean that I could use all of the TVs smart features as well as my cable box and chromecast with my external speaker without needing to keep playing with the wires everytime. Hope this helps.

5 Start for customer support! They reached to me and send me a brand new device! This one wasn’t working with my tv and soundbar. (not sure why) The new one that they send work without any problems! Before buying this one I suggest contacting the seller and give them an idea of what you want to do with the device. They will recommend the device for you! OLD Review I did try everything to make this device working. I have a Samsung tv and Samsung soundbar. Plan was since soundbar doesn’t have hdmi, use this device to have 5.1 from tv to my soundbar . It works if you connect hdmi before tv (no hdr, no 4k), but if you using ARC option there is no way to make this work. My tv does recognize it saying audio device but there is no sound on soundbar.

今回こちらの商品を選んだ理由は、本体とhdmiケーブル、光デジタルケーブルが付属されていたため、購入しました。 本体自体は他社もっと安い商品がありました。 hdmiケーブル、光デジタルケーブルともに短く（60cm位でしょうか）、1ｍないし1.5ｍ位欲しかったので、それならばケーブルと本体を別々に購入したほうが良かったなと思っています。 使えるのは普通に使えます。

前回買ったものが30FPSしか出ず音以前の問題で、この商品を買ってみました。 結果としてはPS5にHDMI音声分離は使うなという結論です。 頻繁に音がでなくなり再起動を余儀なくされます。 結論：PS5の音はモニターから音をｽﾋﾟｰｶｰに繋げるか PS5にUSB経由でステレオに変換してくれるものを買うほうがいいです。

基本的な機能は説明どおりで、金額を考えれば良いと思います。 音質の劣化については、簡単に使う分には感じられませんでした。 光出力は検証していません。 少し困ったのは、ミニステレオジャックと、ＵＳＢ電源端子の場所が近く、 細いジャックでないと干渉して入り難いです。 普通のものであれば、無理やりチカラで入りますが、本当に無理やりという 印象で、機械にもケーブルにもよくないと思います。 わたしは、細目のミニステレオジャックの延長を購入して使用しています。 耐久性は不明ですが、金額を考えれば良い商品だと思います。 ＡＣ１００Ｖ→ＵＳＢのアダプターが結構熱を持つのが気になります。

Firestick 4Kで利用しました。 映像の黒い部分に赤い点が無数に入り、通常の利用に堪えない画質でした。 audio, videoの設定変更も思いつく限り試しましたが改善しませんでした。

現環境がかなり特殊で、PC（DP接続）とPS5とPS4 ProとSwitch（HDMI＋セレクター（hdmi2.0対応）接続）をモニター1枚で共有という形になっており、スピーカーはアナログが2系統入力可能＋光デジタル1系統（要手動切替）というスピーカーを使っています。 で、今まではモニターにHDMIやDPで来た音声をモニターのジャックからスピーカーへ出力していたのですが、出来心でPS4Proから光デジタルで接続したところ、音がヘッドホン用に変換されていることが分かり愕然。 そこで、モニターを通さないようにするために本商品を購入。 最初はは光デジタル接続で満足しましたが、PCを同時に使う場合にアナログ2系統のほうが都合が良かったため、通常時はアナログにして、マジでやる場合は光デジタルにすることにしました。 加齢により耳がそれほど良くないため、光デジタルとアナログ2系統入力で違いが殆どわからなかったのが幸いです。 HDMIから光デジタルやアナログを取り出したくて、最低限の品質で一通りの接続線が揃っている商品を求めている方には本商品をおすすめします。