Thinkbee Wireless Light Switch Kit, No Wiring Mini Remote Switch, No WiFi Needed, Outdoor 1969ft Indoor 328ft Remote Control Lighting Fixture for Led Light, Ceiling Lights and Lamps, Waterproof

The main switching element is a 12A 125VAC/10A 250VAC/10A 30VDC rated relay. Only the Hot (L) wire is interrupted. The Neutral wire stays permanently connected to the load and receiver. The low voltage receiver logic also stays permanently connected to the Hot AC mains regardless of if the load is on, off or not connected.Power to the radio receiver is delivered via a 400V non polarized, red epoxy dipped film capacitor (probably Mylar type) acting as a ractive impedance in series with a zener diode. No fusing, grounding or current limiting circuity other than this capacitor can be identified. In other words, if the capacitor ever fails in a resistive manner, this device could theoretically burn your house down. Fortunately, being 400V rated and likely a decent quality film capacitor, a 120V AC mains transient would have to be very severe (ex: direct lighting strike to the power grid outside your house) to probabilistically let the smoke out in this manner. Film capacitors are normally "self healing" and will safely fail open circuit due to manufacturing defects or minor abuse (that doesn't instantaneously melt everything inside such that a resistive short can form).Just to be on the safe side, I put a 0.5 A inline fuse on the Neutral input line of the receiver (preferably 100mA fuse instead, but I only had down to 500mA fuses on hand), and connected the Natural line of the AC mains directly to the output load unfused. Note that in this configuration, the Neutral output wire on the receiver is left unconnected/unused. For added protection, I also put a 5A inline fuse on the Hot input line to protect the relay and PCB traces if the output load develops a fault.Due to the very small size of the receiver, the Hot and Neutral inputs in the receiver have a very tiny (1mm) air gap to guard against an internal short. However, they did mill slots in the PCB, so this air gap is a true air gap and unlikely to short due to condensation or microscopic conductive metal or salt dust ingress. The wires were soldered to the PCB with sufficient care such that no stray copper strands were flapping in the breeze and able to bridge the air gap. All thru hole components also had their leads trimmed after soldering, so nothing could accidentally bend and short to something else.Quiescent power draw appears to be about 29.7mA in the load-off state @ 120V, 60Hz, but somewhere between 0.01 to 0.04 power factor, so I estimate this wastes only about 225mW or ~2 kWh yearly. In the load-on state, the current dropped to 27.3mA, but the power factor increased to around 0.13, so perhaps 425mW or ~3.7 kWh yearly.Both the receiver switch and transmitter paddle buttons are rather difficult to open up as zero screws are used and everything is secured with plastic snap together hooks. The transmitters also have a second internal plastic cover that makes it difficult to replace the CR2032 batteries without damaging the plaatic unless you know where the hooks are and which direction to bend them. The top cover has two hooks at the bottom (near the LED) which hook inwards, so using a small flat screwdriver in the rear slots, pry outwards - that is, push the top handle of the screwdriver inwards towards the far end of the plastic enclosure. The other two hooks are actually rounded balls used as hinge pivots so don't need prying with a screw driver and just pop off with force. The secondary cover hooks become visible at this point and need similar prying from the back with a screwdriver.Note: if ever a transmitter, key fob or other coin cell operated, momentary actuation device seems dead after sitting around for a year or more unused, push the button repeatedly and/or hold it down for a minute or two. Lithium primary/non-rechargable cells develop extremely high internal resistance when unused for long periods and short circuiting or otherwise trying to drain them for 10-30 seconds or so brings their internal resistance back down several orders of magnitude to normal/functioning levels. Only cells that die during regular loading are actually depleted of energy and need replacing.The product description claims FCC certification. This is bogus since radio transmitters require an FCC product ID printed on them to track defective devices generating harmful RF emissions back to the manufacture and no such ID stickers or numbers are printed on these transmitters. This is quite insignificant, however, since these transmitters are momentary use and extremely limited in how much noise they could ever generate by virtue of having a tiny CR2032 power source.Overall, I award 5 stars, installed my purchase in my bedroom and plan to buy another receiver and transmitter set for use in another room because despite the things I dislike and worry about this product, the price point is way better than a true high quality/reputably branded/UL listed/FCC certified product, and simple inline fusing aleviates my safety concerns. I also like the very low quiescent power consumption - WiFi switches need 5x or more continuous power.

I love it this came with wago connectors! Much better than ol' wire nuts.

Love these. Used them for the downstairs lights the kids keep leaving on. I put one of the switches upstairs so I don't have to go down to turn them off

Great service

The switch itself works very well and really easy to pair it with the remote clicker. So, overall, I really like the product, its simplicity (no wifi required) and the range is excellent. The installation, however, is not very elegant and there's nothing in the instructions to help. The instructions tell you how to wire it but don't offer any help on how to actually install the device. This went in a horse barn so I could turn the flood lights on at the barn from the house. Works great for that. The pic shows how I installed the device. I drilled a hole in the faceplate, mounted the receiver over the faceplate and ran the wires through the faceplate to connect to the power. Not elegant, but it's a barn and it works. I wanted access to the device (not behind the faceplate) in case I needed to resync. Two improvements would make this much slicker: LONGER WIRES. The wires that come off this thing are about about 4 inches long. That's ridiculous. I had to splice more wires in to reach the power. Should be 12 inches of wire. THE WIRES SHOULD COME OFF THE BOTTOM OR EVEN THE BACK. Then you could hide the wires better and run into the wall with them. They come off the front, bottom now instead of back bottom or the backside.On the wiring, I have no idea why it says you need a common in AND a common out. Common always is on. Only the hot is switched. I twisted the common in and out together and connected them to the house common and it works perfectly. You do need a hot in and load out for the switch. By connecting it directly to the manual wall switch, the wall switch overrides the wireless so you can still turn it on with the wall switch whether the wireless is on or off.Overall, I'm very happy with the product but a few things kept me from giving it 5 stars.