Dremel 231 Portable Rotary Tool Shaper and Router Table - Woodworking Attachment - Perfect for Sanding, Shaping, and Trimming Edges

Works well with my 8250 cordless Dremel rotary tool with a roundover bit. I clamped the router table to my B&D workmate with a couple of Irwin quick clamps. The router table was secure and stable. I would recommend this router table to anyone, realizing that it does have its limitations due to size and dremel sized bits etc.

I've been wanting a mini router for years and always hesitated buying this because I have an old off-brand rotary tool. I finally ordered it, thinking that for that price, I could always try to modify it or just return it. I'm so glad I took the chance! If your rotary tool has a collet that reveals screw threads under it to mount it, this will work for you. My Flex Shaft rotary tool would not fit in it, for example. But that's the one I use at my desk, so having the other rotary tool dedicated to the router is perfect. I wouldn't want to have to mount/unmount the Dremel every time I use the router setup. When you screw the Dremel on, make sure you tighten it all the way with the provided wrench, and that the little push knob to screw/unscrew the router bit is facing the front opening. If you don't screw it in all the way, the Dremel will be wobbly. The fence has enough little notches that you need to cover it with a piece of wood so your pieces don't get caught on them. And they must know that because there are two holes already provided to secure the additional wooden fence with a machine screw and a bolt on the reverse. Make sure you countersink the wood so the screw doesn't stick out. Mount the whole setup on a plank, so you can clamp it to a workbench, or whereever you need it, but then put it away when you're done. As far as the performance, I want to manage your expectations. This isn't meant to be a full size router. I make dioramas and use mostly basswood or small wood dowels for trim moulding. Even then, the trims can be a tiny bit off in places, but are decent enough. There's a tiny bit of give if you try to trim off too much material at once, so if you're cutting deep, do it in stages. And watch your fingers, it still has quite a bit of pull, even for a tiny setup. Make yourself a push stick! So overall, if you do miniatures, this table is a great value for the price!

I must admit that I was disappointed when my 1975 Dremel model 370-5 Mototool would not tighten completely into my new Dremel 231 Portable Rotary Tool Shaper and Router Table. I didn't expect it to, as it was not included in the list of Dremel models that would, but the description said "with most ", so I went ahead and ordered one from Amazon, which arrived the next day. After seeing that my old Dremel wouldn't work, I was about ready to look up the current Dremel models when the thought occurred to me that I should check my new Milwaukee model 2460-20 M12 Rotary Tool. It fit perfectly!. I just removed the nut like the Dremel and screwed it to the table. Still uncertain if I would keep the table, I clamped it to my bench with two Irwin Quick Grips and chucked in a router bit from the old Dremel. I was disappointed again to find that the round dowel that I was going to rout would not slide across the gap in the fence. I solved that with a piece of square PVC framing stock and two screws through holes in the Dremel's fence. The piece cut cleanly and straight. Success! The unit is made mostly from plastic, and isn't as rigid as I would like, but still very workable and a great value at the price. I wish that they had this back in 1975 when I bought my first Dremel. It still runs smoothly even after two or three sets of brushes. If this table lasts half as long, I will have gotten my money's worth.

Fantastic table though I wish it were a bit sturdier. Regardless, it appears to do the job well enough. I just don't trust plastic, where metal should have been used instead. Just my opinion of course... Anyhow as far as the table goes, it's easy enough to operate, has simple, readable instructions in several common languages and may require a bit of reading and/or watching YouTube videos for those, less familiar with these types of miniaturized tools, or power tools in general. This is NO TOY! You can be seriously injured or worse if you do not follow proper safety procedures and use required safety gear. I.e: Safety Glasses, finger guards and make adjustments with the tool UNPLUGGED. The extra effort of being sure the tool is unplugged could save your eyes or a finger or two, so just do it. Thank me later. Lol! Overall this is a great addition to my tool kit for fine Precision work crafting soft metals, plastics and wood. Love this thing. The only real drawback is, mounting your Dremel tool in this decice takes a few minutes, and of course, that tool can not be used for any other purpose while mounted. So plan your project carefully and minimize the number of times you have to swap out Dremel tools and bits. Assuming you only have one Dremel tool, like myself... Good luck!

I've wanted one of these for years and finally made it happen. Made from tough plastic, it seems very sturdy. It is intended to be mounted at the edge of a bench, or alternatively, to a length of 2x4 so it can be clamped to a bench temporarily, which is what I will be doing. I usually clamp tools like this to my Workmate anyway. The table incorporates an adjustable fence for planing/edging complete with a decent guard, a miniature version of what you'd find on most full-sized router tables. The fence also included a slide-out section in the outfeed part so that adequate support can be given when removing stock from the edge being worked upon, which is always to be placed against the fence and the workpiece fed into the bit from right to left. Doing anything else will result in dangerous kickback. I have a friend who lost his forefinger and thumb in just such an accident with a tablesaw, and I once launched a spear-like workpiece across my workshop when I was so tired I did it wrong while using my router table, so pay attention to the basic instructions on how to use the router/shaper table and only work while you are alert. You get all the hardware needed to screw the table down, a wrench for installing the motor-tool, the table itself and a leaflet of instructions and safety warnings. There are also instructions for how to expand the table's area with a wooden auxiliary table. Table-mounting any rotary took is a great idea the broadens its application incredibly. I'm looking forward to what I can achieve with this little beauty. BIG CAVEAT: I was offered the chance to add some bits to my purchase and I did so. The bits looked awesome, just like full-sized router bits, with structural material supporting the carbide cutters and ball bearing guides, the works. Sadly, and to my cost since the nearest Amazon return center is over an hour's drive away, these bits do NOT fit any current Dremel rotary tool that will mount in this table. You'll know them by the bright blue heads on them. DO NOT BUY THOSE BITS. They have 3/8" shanks, far too big for any current model of Dremel rotary tool that will fit this router/shaper table.

I was a little worried after reading some of the reviews, but now having used it for a couple weeks with my 400XPR, I'm not sure what some of these other people are smoking. Yes, the router table and fence are plastic. Using softer woods like basswood, I noticed no deflection whatsoever. The core tenet of any tool is "let the tool do the work." If you're getting deflection, you're either using the wrong bit or you're pushing the workpiece faster than it likes to be cut. I'm finding that I can make highly accurate dado slots for basswood planking in 3/8" x 3/8" stock with ease. Usually I'll make three passes, one at half-depth (and a quick cleanup pass), then one halfway to the final depth (again, with a quick cleanup pass), and a final pass at the final depth with a last cleanup pass. I let the tool do the work and don't push the stock faster than the routing bit will go. Honestly, I couldn't be happier with this product if I tried. I haven't had any of the wood dust buildup others have mentioned (then again, I blow off the deck and mounting hole after each pass) and I have no need to clamp it to anything after mounting the routing table on a spare piece of 2x8 stock I had laying around. There's no way I could get this level of performance out of a standard routing table without spending at least $400. Keep your expectations reasonable. You're not going to cut into metal with this, it has no cutting lubrication function and the motor is directly below the router bit hole. If you want to machine grooves in metal, use the right tool for the job - a router is *not* the right tool. If you're going to use it on a hardwood, go slow and let the bit do all the work. I have no doubt this would work on ebony or rosewood, as long as the bit is sharp and the material is not forced. The short of it; understand how to use the tool and it will reward you handsomely - particularly at this price! [Edit - drop from 5 stars to 3] There is a fatal flaw in the design of this table that was not noted until I went to do finger, box, and dovetail joints. Because the fence is inherently not parallel with the front and back edges of the table, what you wind up with are skewed keys and slots. The results of trying to do joinery work with this table look like utter crap. This is a *fine* table for doing inlay, dado, or shaping work. It is absolutely unsuitable for joinery work that is anything other than a simple dado slot. Insult to injury, due to the design of the table, it's nearly impossible to create your own fence that *can* be parallel to the front edge and still permit adjusting the distance from the fence to the bit. Looks like it's time to spend some significant money on a real routing table and fixed base router.

I got this for a class in woodworking that I'm teaching to girls who have learning disabilities. This is one of the tools that I felt would be indispensable. I was a little disappointed in the way that the table mounts on a stationery table because it moves around a lot. I fixed that, not wanting to permanently fasten it to the table, by using the rubbery waffle weave fabric that is used to keep rugs from sliding. I put it underneath the Router Table where it contacts the big table, and then started to tighten the clamps. THAT made it stay still 100%. I look forward to using this little router and will report back on its functionality. It's extremely well made and I especially like the plastic covering for where the bit will stick up. I still have my students using safety glasses though. Well made, but it's a little hard to figure out how to keep it still until you put that non-slip fabric between the Router table and the regular table. If you're going to attach it permanently, no worries except to be sure not to tighten the bolts to the point that the plastic base splits.

I had one small project for work that I was working on, and I needed to be able to make a 1/8" slot in a 24 pieces of teflon that were 2" x 3" x 1/4" thick in size. I didn't want to have to go buy a router and a router table just for this one project, it wasn't worth the price of the tools. (The whole point of my project was to eliminate having these parts custom made from a machine shop and save time and money by doing them myself) I was looking on Amazon for a cheap router and table with decent reviews and I came across this. I already have a dremel so this was a great find! I found the 1/8" slot bit I needed on Amazon also and had them both sent 1 day shipping and when they came I put them right to work. I ran a few tests with used material so I didn't ruin my new teflon and it worked great. As some one else suggested, I screwed the table to a 2 x 4 and then used some C clamps to clamp it to a work bench so I can easily remove it when not in use. It worked great, it was solid and didn't flex like I thought it might. For $30, I cant complain, I don't know how well it will hold up, but I don't plan on using it very often, just for the occasional project.

Der Frästisch ist eigentlich eine gute Idee, gerade für eine kleine Maschine, wie die Dremel. Für kleine Arbeiten hat er gerade die richtige Größe, die Anordnung der Bedienungselemente ist gut und sinnvoll. Mit ein bisschen Fingerspitzengefühl ist auch die Dremel relativ schnell und einfach an der Tisch angeschlossen. Also eine wirklich gute Idee, würde nicht leider ihre Ausführung den Wert Einsatzfähigkeit des Gerätes relativieren. Das beginnt mit dem Anbringen des Frästisches an einen Werktisch oder dergleichen. Man kann ihn nur anschrauben, was vorhandene oder herzustellende Bohrlöcher voraussetzt. Oder aber fest auf einem Hilfsbrett montieren, welches man seinerseits dann anklemmen kann. So bei mir. Das eigentlich Ärgerliche ist jedoch die fast überwiegende Ausführung des Frästisches aus Kunststoff. Für die Oberplatte, den Anschlag und natürlich die Schutzhaube mag das angehen, aber die Dremel selbst bleibt auch bei festestem Einspannen elastisch und beweglich gelagert. Schon geringer Druck am Fräskopf reicht aus, um die Maschine nachgeben zu lassen, was ein präzises und exaktes Bearbeiten von Werkstücken nahezu unmöglich macht. Und genau darauf kommt es ja in dieser Kathegorie „Kleinmaschinen“ doch eigentlich an. So hat sich mir der Nutzen dieses Gerätes bis heute leider nicht erschlossen, schade.

Buena marca y muy fácil de usar

Cómo es de esperarse es de buena calidad muy práctico

プラスチックか、多分、樹脂製だと思います。製造国はMade IN Chainaとあります。小さくても立派な工作道具です。 ルーターを取り付ける部分がこのタイプではルーター本体の先の丸いカバーを外してねじ込むだけの方法に変わりました。カバーは紛失しないように、くれぐれもご注意してください。ルーター本体がちょっとぶれるようでしたら、結束バンドでルーター本体の中央部分を固定すればよろしいでしょう。小さな趣味でやっていることでございますので、文句はありません。ありがたく使わせていただいております。ビットの種類やアクセサリーも豊富なのがDREMELの魅力です。アイデア次第で色んな工作に挑戦する意欲が沸いてきます。最初は廃材を利用して具合をみてください。慣れないうちは、ルーターテーブルの癖を利用すればきれいに仕上がります。貴重な道具になります。

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